Yucca root disease. How to easily defeat yucca diseases? Why do the leaves of the false palm tree turn yellow, dry out and fall off? Why do yucca leaves dry out or turn yellow? What to do

Evergreen exotic plants can add elegance and harmony to the interior of an apartment. Such flowers with large or long leaves are placed in large halls, living rooms or even in the bedroom. Caring for them is not difficult, but they must be carefully protected from diseases and harmful insects. Today we will talk about yucca.

In this article we will look at the most common diseases of yucca, which can not only spoil appearance plants, but in some cases even destroy it. I will also tell you which insects pose a danger to exotic plants, list methods to combat them and important basics of prevention.

In nature, yucca grows on continents with hot and dry climates. This plant is accustomed to the scorching sun, so in order for it to feel harmoniously at home, it needs to create approximately the same conditions.

The main point in caring for yucca is the period of “rest”, into which the plant falls with the onset of late autumn. The health and beauty of an exotic flower depends on how the rest period is organized.

Around the end of October, the yucca falls into “deep sleep.” This period lasts until mid-February. At this moment, the plant stops growing, it no longer requires a complete nutritional complex of minerals, and it does not need abundant watering.
The optimal temperature in the room where yucca grows should be up to +12 degrees. It is important that the plant is not exposed to catastrophically low temperatures (+8 degrees and below).
The plant does not need edges until the beginning of the growing season.
Watering needs to be reduced to 1-2 times a month.

At the time of vegetative development, an exotic flower needs the following conditions:

plenty of sunlight;
the temperature in the room is not higher than 30 degrees;
regular spraying of foliage;
application of mineral fertilizers (once every 2 weeks);
protection from drafts and sudden temperature changes.

Yucca diseases

Various factors can trigger the development of the disease process. But, as a rule, they are all associated with the organization of improper care. The most dangerous thing for yucca is waterlogging of the soil in the pot, as well as nutrient deficiency. A weakened palm tree has a reduced protective ability, which affects its health.

Cercospora

The disease refers to fungal infections. The causative agent is the pathogenic fungus Cercospora.

The reasons are waterlogging of the soil, excessive spraying of foliage.

The development of cercospora can be determined by light brown spots appearing on the leaves. Such spots have a dark edge. The peculiarity of the disease is that over time the number of spots increases, affecting most of the foliage.

cut off the affected leaves, treat the sections with a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
spray the flower with a fungicide (Topaz, Fundazol), repeat the treatment 2-3 times every 10 days.

Brown spot

A disease of fungal origin.

Reasons: frequent watering of the plant.

Brown spotting spreads gradually. The disease first affects the lower leaves. Light spots form on them, after some time the leaf turns yellow, and then becomes dark brown. On the surface of the spots, fungal spores are visually visible - small growths.

emergency destruction of the affected leaf;
treating the flower with a fungicide (Fundazol);
in case of severe spread of fungal infection, treatment with a potent fungicide (Ridomil Godl).

Fusarium rot

A very dangerous fungal disease for plants. At the initial stage, the disease practically does not manifest itself. A little later, traces of rotting are observed at the base of the leaf blades. It is no longer possible to save the affected leaf; it is instantly affected by infection.

at the beginning of the development of the disease, treat the affected flower with a systemic fungicide (Previkur, Fundazol);
if the disease spreads strongly, destroy the flower along with the soil and pot.

Leaf necrosis

A fungal infection is characterized by the appearance of gray spots on the outermost part of the leaf. Such new growths can be dry or weeping.

remove the diseased area (or cut off the leaf);
treat the wound or cut with powdered activated carbon;
Treat the affected palm tree with a fungicide (Topaz).

Stem rot

The spread of a fungal infection on the trunk often leads to the death of the plant. The causes of the damage become noticeable immediately - the trunk first darkens, then softens. Small spots-ulcers form on the surface of the affected part of the trunk, from which a liquid substance flows out.

Cut off the infected part of the trunk. The cut should be located 2-3 cm above the healthy trunk tissue.
Destroy the rotten part of the plant.
Treat the cut with a systemic fungicide (Previkur), then sprinkle with wood ash or activated carbon powder.
Water the soil of the diseased plant with Carbendazim (fungicide).

Root rot

It is not easy to detect the onset of a pathogenic process in a timely manner - a fungal infection affects the roots of the flower. If you remove the affected plant from the pot, its roots will be dark and soft. Weakened roots are not able to “transmit” nutrients to the plant, which accordingly affects its appearance - the palm tree will slow down in growth, the leaves begin to turn yellow and wither.

if a fungal infection affects most of the root system, then it is recommended to destroy the flower;
in case of minor damage to the roots, it is necessary to cut off the diseased root branches and treat the sections with activated carbon;
the plant should be transplanted into a new substrate;
then the soil is disinfected with a fungicidal preparation (Fundazol);
The palm tree is not watered until it has taken root after transplantation.

Yucca pests

A palm tree with a strong immune system is rarely attacked by harmful insects. But if the flower is weakened (due to improper care or due to the development of diseases), then a wide variety of pests prefer to immediately settle on it.

Shchitovka

If small convex and hard growths are found on the surface of the leaves, then we're talking about about the defeat of a flower by scale insects. The insect feeds on the sap of leaves, causing significant harm to them. A sticky substance (a waste product of the pest) left on the leaves disrupts the process of photosynthesis and is a favorable environment for the development of fungal infections.

free the leaves from scale insects - manually remove the pest, you can first treat the leaf with vodka or soap solution;
treat the soil with an insecticidal agent (Fitoverm, Aktara), repeat the treatment at least 3 times (interval - 10 days).

Spider mite

Small threads appear on the surface of the affected palm tree - this is a consequence of the activity of spider mites. The leaves of the flower become lighter and become covered with a whitish coating.

It is impossible to detect the pest visually - its size is negligible.

The pest feeds on plant sap. Severe infestation by spider mites will lead to the death of the palm tree.

treatment of yucca with insecticide - Fitoverm, Aktara, Vermitek, Iskra-Bio;
spraying the flower with a soap solution, a decoction of garlic.

Mealybug

The pest reproduces very quickly, so flower treatment must be carried out immediately, immediately after detection early signs defeats.

Gently wash the yucca leaves with soapy water;
spray the plant with an insecticide (Vermitex, Aktara, Fitoverm), repeat the treatment 4 times with an interval of 7 days.

Aphid

spray the palm tree with soapy water or decoctions of tansy and garlic;
treat the affected plant with an insecticide - Karbofos, Aktara.

Prevention

Pests and diseases on yucca are most often the result of improper care. To prevent the occurrence of unpleasant and dangerous consequences, the plant needs to be kept in conditions that are comfortable for it.

Conclusion

Yucca is exotic plant. It is an undemanding species, but still needs constant care and proper care.
The consequence of improper care can be the development of a pathogenic process. Palm trees most often suffer from fungal diseases - cercospora blight, root or stem rot, and brown spot.
In addition to diseases, harmful insects - aphids, mealybugs, spider mites - also pose a danger to the plant.
Treatment of an affected flower consists of disinfectant treatment and subsequent organization of comfortable growing conditions.

Yucca(lat. Yucca) is a genus of tree-like evergreen plants from the Agave family (Agavaceae). Previously the genus was placed in the subfamily Dracaenoide? Liliaceae family. Yucca plants without a trunk and with a trunk. Leaves are xiphoid, broadly lanceolate, linear-lanceolate, linear, 25-100 cm long and 1-8 cm wide, often grooved plates widened towards the base, collected in a bunch at the top of the trunk and its branching, green, bluish, jagged or smooth at the edges, often in threads, often ending in a spike, hard or hard, erect or drooping.

The inflorescence is a panicle 1-2.5 m tall, branched, multi-flowered, erect or drooping. Yucca flowers are bell-shaped, white, pale yellow, up to 8 cm long.

Care and maintenance of Yucca

Temperature in summer 20 - 25
Temperature in winter 6 - 12

Lighting: Bright, sunny place. In summer, yucca prefers to be placed outdoors - on the balcony, in the garden, etc. In winter, you will have to move the yucca as close to the window as possible, since in winter these plants especially suffer from a lack of light - and the fan of leaves will not be lush and dense.

Watering: Abundant from spring to autumn, but no water should remain on the tray; watering is moderate in winter. If kept in cool conditions in winter, watering is rare, but does not allow the earthen clod to dry out. Yucca does not tolerate stagnation of water in the soil - this can lead to rotting of the roots and the formation of stem rot.

Reproduction: In spring, by rooting the top of the stem, as well as pieces of the trunk (at least 10 cm long). Reproduction by seeds and offspring is possible. When yucca is propagated by offspring, a daughter rosette is cut off from the main trunk with a sharp knife, and the cut area on the trunk is sprinkled with sulfur. The cut rosette is rooted in damp sand, and after rooting it is planted in a pot of soil, to which pieces of charcoal (for example, birch) are added. It is advisable to cut off daughter rosettes for propagation in spring or summer, since at other times of the year they do not take root or will take a very long time to take root, in addition, this can damage the mother plant.

When propagating yucca from seeds, it is important that they are fresh. The seeds are soaked for a day in warm water, then sown in a mixture of light leaf soil and peat. The bowl is covered with glass or a bag and ventilated several times a day. Usually the seeds germinate within a month.

Air humidity: Does not require spraying the leaves, but sometimes it is necessary to wash them so that the plant does not become dusty and does not lose its attractiveness. In summer, outdoor rainfall is sufficient. If in winter the yucca is kept in a room with central heating, then it is advisable to spray it at least once a day.

Transfer: The soil must be nutritious. For young plants - 2 parts turf soil, 2 parts leaf soil, 1 part humus and 2 parts sand. For adult and old plants - 3 parts turf soil, 2 parts leaf soil, 2 parts sand. Yucca is replanted every two years in the spring. Yucca is planted in a large pot or tub. Good drainage is a must. From April to August, fertilizing is carried out every two weeks, which significantly accelerates growth.

Top dressing: spring-summer - once every 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers
winter-autumn - without feeding.

Pests and diseases: Yucca Pests

Only the most common pests are described here. False scale insects - settle on leaves on both sides and stems along the veins. A damaged plant slows down or stops growing, the leaves dry out, and the plant dies.
Control measures. Spraying with actellik (10 drops per about.5 liters of water) and wiping the leaves on both sides with a sponge soaked in the same solution.
Spider mite - settles on the underside of the leaf. Damaged yucca leaves are distinguished by a pale green leaf color with a yellowish tint. Solid whitish spots form on the surface of damaged leaves, and the leaves die. Dry indoor air promotes mite infestation.
Control measures. Spraying with derris or systemic insecticide (fitoverm, fufan, actellik). Increasing indoor air humidity. Yucca diseases

Only the most common Yucca diseases are described here.
Grayish-brown spots on leaves (leaf spot) are a fungal or bacterial disease caused by high humidity in the air and soil.
Control measures. Removing affected leaves. Spray with a systemic fungicide, reduce watering and stop spraying.
Stem rot is a disease caused by a fungus. In this case, part of the stem or crown of the plant becomes soft and rots. A fungus that infects a plant usually develops quickly and, as a rule, the entire plant dies. Waterlogged soil and unventilated rooms promote the development of fungus.
Control measures. In the initial stage of the disease, you can try to save the plant by removing all affected tissue. In case of serious damage, destroy the plant along with the soil and pot.

In summer you can take it out into open ground.
Avoid stagnant water.
Yellowing of leaves due to lack of light.

Sections of the elephant yucca trunk are supplied from Holland. Leafless cuttings with waxed cuts evaporate relatively little moisture, which allows them to be transported over long distances. Inspect the cutting in the store: it should be elastic, not shriveled or rotten, and its upper and lower ends should be indicated. After purchasing, bury the cutting with its lower end into the cutting substrate (peat and sand in equal proportions) or into clean sand. The temperature should not be lower than 20C, and the substrate should be moderately moistened (overmoistening is dangerous). Rooting yucca is a long process that takes 1-2 months.

If you get a poorly marked cutting (it’s not clear where it is up and where it is down), then lay it horizontally and bury it halfway into the substrate. Dormant buds will awaken on the trunk, which after rooting can be separated from the mother trunk.

Already rooted Yucca elephant plants are available for sale. As a rule, they have several side shoots closer to the top. To enhance the decorative effect, several sections of the trunk are rooted in one pot. different lengths, creating tiers of graceful foliage.

Caring for yucca is easy. It will not require frequent spraying, and the soil in the pot can be allowed to dry out a little. Turf, leaf soil and sand in equal proportions are quite suitable for yucca. The pot should have good drainage and enough space for roots to grow. Regular feeding is useful. The location is the brightest. In the summer it is useful to take the yucca out to the balcony or garden. Yucca ivory is a native of Guatemala. It does not tolerate unexpected temperature drops below 5°C.

All these species differ from elephant yucca in their growth form: instead of a single-trunked tree, you will see a bush branched at the base or even an underground rhizome. The leaves do not fall from the stem, and after flowering the shoot dies, developing lateral buds closer to the base.

Cuttings with an apical rosette of leaves are suitable as planting material. They need to be dried so that the cut surface becomes scarred, some of the leaves must be removed to reduce evaporation, and the cuttings must be treated in the same way as described above. If you get a piece of rhizome with ready-made roots, dust the cuts with crushed coal and plant them in a moderately moist substrate. Remember: it is better to dry the yucca than to over-moisten it.

Care is similar to caring for elephant yucca, with the only difference being that in the fall you can bring tubs of yucca indoors after the first frost, closer to November. Cold-resistant yuccas have very hard, spiny leaves. Therefore, plants are placed in the interior so that they do not interfere with the movement of people and there is less risk of injury from the plant. Be careful when cutting yucca and when transplanting.

Yuccas rarely bloom in rooms. This requires good lighting and fertilizing, and cold-resistant species need to be provided with cool winter dormancy (6-8°C).

Possible difficulties of Yucca

Pests- mealybug, aphid; root rot due to waterlogging.

Brown tips or edges of leaves- dry air. Most Yucca plants require high humidity. Other causes could be cold drafts or insufficient watering.
Soft curled leaves and brown edges- too much low temperature. Delicate species exhibit similar signs if left near a window on a cold night.
Yellowing lower leaves- if the leaves turn yellow slowly, this is natural and inevitable for old plants. Yuccas tend to have green leaves only at the top of the bare stem. This appearance is explained by the fact that their leaves do not live long; after two years they turn yellow and die.
Brown spots on leaves- insufficient watering. The earthen ball should be wet all the time.
Plant death- one of two things: either too much watering in winter, or too low a temperature.
Light dry spots on leaves- too much sun.

Let indoor plants always delight you with their beauty!

How to increase a plant's resistance to stress? What to do if problems could not be avoided? How to recognize approaching trouble? Let's talk about everything in order.

The evergreen indoor yucca is endemic to Central America, a region with a hot and dry climate. This could not but affect the formation of the annual cycle of its life activity, one of the stages of which is a period of pronounced dormancy.

When the plant goes into “sleep,” which occurs around the end of October and lasts until February–March, it sharply reduces its consumption of moisture and nutrients and stops growing. Accordingly, the watering and fertilizing regime needs to be adjusted. What if you don't do this? With a high degree of probability, diseases will not be long in coming, and yucca will already need not only preventive measures, but also their treatment.

The health of yucca is determined by a combination of factors such as light, humidity, and temperature. What should they be like during the rest period?

There should be a lot of light. If in summer yucca is recommended to receive diffused sunlight and keep it at some distance from the window, then by winter the pots can be moved closer to the light source, for example, as in the photo below.
The optimal winter temperature is 10–14° C. It is undesirable for it to fall below 8° C or rise above 25° C.
Watering is reduced to 1-2 times a month.
Feeding is suspended until spring.

It happens that it is not possible to lower the temperature to optimal parameters. In this case, the earthen ball will dry out faster, and you can water the plant a little more often.

But the greatest harm to yucca comes from a combination of low temperature (for example, the pot is on a cold windowsill) and excessive watering. Mold and pathogenic bacteria will 100% settle in wet, cold soil. And further. Yucca is very afraid of drafts.

By the way, if the “palm tree” is transplanted during this period, it will probably get sick. Dormant roots will not be able to absorb the increased volume of soil and moisture, and this is a direct path to fungal infections.

Common Yucca Diseases

Most diseases of yucca are associated with improper maintenance - waterlogging of the soil, depletion of the soil mixture, and, consequently, weakening of the plant's immunity. But it happens that the infection enters from the outside, for example, with the substrate or other indoor flowers. What problems most often arise with palm trees?

Fungal infections affecting the crown

Several groups of fungi manifest themselves by infecting yucca leaves. All sorts of spots, yellowing, and sores appear on them. If you don’t catch it in time, the spots increase, merge, and eventually the leaves dry out and the plant itself droops. We’ll tell you how to revive it at home using the example of several diseases.

Cercospora is an infection caused by a fungal pathogen (Cercospora)

A favorable environment for this fungus is high humidity. It occurs due to constant overflows, as well as when the grower gets carried away with spraying plants. Round spots of light brown color with a dark border appear on the leaves, which gradually grow, affecting new areas.

Having noticed the disease, first of all remove the affected leaves as much as possible.

Then treat with a systemic fungicide, first a “light” one (Fundazol, Topaz). The number of sprayings is 2–3 times with an interval of 10 days.

And, of course, it is necessary to eliminate the factors that led to the yucca disease - dry the earthen ball, reduce watering, stop spraying the crown.

Brown spot

The causes of the lesion are similar to the previous disease, but are caused by a fungus of a different group. It primarily affects the lower (old) leaves. First, discolored areas appear, then they turn yellow, and after 3–4 months they become brown. At this time, you can notice fungal spores located in the center of the spots.

Control measures are the same as for cercospora. If the disease has progressed, you can use a stronger fungicide, for example, Ridomil Gold.

Leaf marginal necrosis

This fungal infection is diagnosed by gray-brown spots affecting the edges of the leaf blade. Sometimes the spot can be “wet” and have a pronounced concentric shape.

If the speck is small, the sheet can not be removed, but only the diseased area can be cut out, capturing part of the healthy tissue. To disinfect the wound, treat the edges with crushed activated carbon.

After the “operation”, spray the yucca with a fungicide solution.

Fusarium rot

This is a dangerous fungal infection that leads to leaf rot. They are usually affected at the base and rot completely.

To combat fusarium fungus, systemic fungicides are used, such as Fundazol, Previkur, Profit. If the damage is severe, it is better to throw away the plant along with the pot.

To ensure effective control of diseases and pests, the crown, trunk and, of course, the soil are sprayed. Sometimes it is recommended to remove the top layer of substrate contaminated with fungal spores or insect larvae. In case of fungal diseases, to be on the safe side, the plant is not only sprayed, but also watered several times with a weak solution of fungicide.

Stem rot

If the loss of leaves is a temporary problem, new ones will grow after treatment, then everything is not so simple with the trunk. This is the main artery through which food flows; if it dies, the yucca will also die.

The trunk affected by rot becomes soft, brown ulcers appear on it, from which a watery substance oozes.

Only surgical intervention can save the plant. We definitely cut out the softened part of the trunk to healthy tissue. Further actions depend on what is left of the palm tree.

If this is the top, the cut is dried, treated with a growth stimulator (according to the instructions) and tried to root. This can be done in water or in a light substrate of peat and perlite.

Living root with part of the trunk? Wonderful! Treat the cut with activated or crushed charcoal and place in a bright, warm place. Apply Carbendazim fungicide solution to kill fungus in the soil. If everything is in order, the yucca will expel the shoots from the axillary buds.

Problems with roots

Often on forums you can “hear” the cry of the soul: “Yucca is dying, what to do?” Moreover, outwardly everything looks normal - no obvious diseases, no pests, but the plant is withering away. In such situations, the problem is most likely in the roots.

Root rot is a nightmare for succulents, which includes yucca. You can see it only when replanting the plant. Therefore, if you see that the plant is withering for no apparent reason, try to carefully remove it from the pot and inspect the roots. If they are dark and soft, it is root rot. Whether it will be possible to revive the yucca depends on the extent of the damage.

If the roots have rotted completely, all that remains is to throw away the flower.
Less than a third of diseased roots? Cut off anything suspicious and transplant the yucca into a new container with fresh substrate. After planting, water it with a fungicide solution and send the “sick” one to a warm and bright place.
If more than half of the roots are damaged, but not all, you can try to save the plant. They need to be washed under the tap, and then all soft and darkened pieces should be cut off. Next, we plant, water with a fungicide solution, and place in the light. We are waiting for the result.

The reanimated plant should not be watered until you are sure that it has taken root and has begun to grow.

Yucca doesn't bloom

Some gardeners are concerned about the question of why yucca does not bloom; they even tend to attribute the problem to illness or improper maintenance. This is not entirely true.

The fact is that yucca almost never blooms in captivity. This is due to the fact that the conditions of its maintenance are far from the natural environment, the dormant period is relative, which means that the flower buds do not have time to ripen. Yes and in natural conditions Only mature “palms” bloom. Therefore, if the yucca is more than 10 years old and you provide it with peace in winter, there is a chance, although small, that it will throw out inflorescences with beautiful white bells.

You need to know the enemy by sight

In addition to diseases, some insects are enemies of yucca. Pests rarely attack a plant with strong immunity, but diseased, depleted specimens often become their target. Let's consider who can live with your pet.

Mealybug

Most often it affects a palm tree in the off-season, when the plant experiences stress from changes in temperature. Externally, mealybugs look like small cotton balls; if you crush the fluffy ball, bloody discharge appears. Its harm is enormous, since it sucks juice from leaves and branches and multiplies very quickly.

If you notice a mealybug infestation, thoroughly wipe the yucca leaves with a sponge dipped in warm, soapy water, removing all visible traces of the pest. After this, treat the plant with an insecticide (Aktara, Calypso, Fitoverm, etc.). The procedure must be repeated 3-4 times with an interval of 7-10 days.

Shchitovka

Another dangerous enemy of yucca is the scale insect. A tiny insect, similar to a small turtle, is generally mistaken by some for a growth on the leaves, since it is motionless. Having firmly attached itself to a leaf blade or cuttings, the scale insect sucks out the juices of the plant. The first sign of a dangerous neighborhood is a sticky, shiny discharge.

Not only the scale insect itself harms the flower, but also the sticky substance. It clogs the pores of living tissue, creating favorable conditions for fungal infections.

The “shell” of the scale insect is so dense that it is difficult to kill it even with chemicals. First you need to remove adult individuals mechanically - with a swab moistened with a concentrated soap solution or vodka, clean the leaves and stems of brown “growths”. Remove the top layer of soil.

After this, treat the plant with an insecticide. As with mealybugs, repeat the procedure at least 3 times.

Spider mite

Spider mites can settle on weakened plants. First, light “grains” appear on the back of the sheet, and then a thin web appears.

To combat the pest, you will need an insecticide with an acaricidal effect - Fitoverm, Vertimek.

In addition to diseases and pests, there may be other reasons why yucca leaves turn yellow -.

To increase the plant’s resistance to stress, do not neglect feeding in the summer - balanced diet will help build strong immunity. In winter, give the yucca a rest and gain strength for the new season. Proper care is the best disease prevention.

A video about caring for yucca will help you avoid many problems.

Yucca is a genus of evergreen tree-like plants belonging to the Agave subfamily of the Asparagus family. The plant has a woody stem, and in some cases, a branched tree-like stem. Yucca leaves are clustered at the ends of branches or trunk. They are pointed and linear-lanceolate. The plant has large bell-shaped flowers.

Yucca in natural conditions is usually found in conditions with low air humidity, high light levels and little precipitation. Therefore, a gardener who decides to grow yucca indoors must create conditions close to natural ones.

Yucca grows well in bright and warm rooms. In winter, the optimal temperature is +10°C, and in summer +20-25°C. This is a light-loving plant that needs careful care. This is important to avoid problems.

Often, owners of the perennial evergreen beauty yucca have questions about how to combat various diseases plants. But before taking the necessary measures, it is worth studying all existing yucca diseases.

Yucca spot (caused by the fungus Coniothyrium concentricum)

This disease first affects old leaf stems, on which colorless spots appear, which over time turn yellow and eventually brown. The disease often occurs due to high humidity. To eliminate it, it is necessary to remove all damaged leaves and treat the plant with a fungicide. In addition, it is necessary to stop spraying and slightly reduce watering.

Yucca rot (caused by Fusarium fungi)

During the disease process, the crown of the plant is affected, the leaves are susceptible to soft rot, and if measures to combat the disease are not followed, the plant may die altogether.

At the initial stage, it is necessary to remove damaged leaves and spray with a fungicide solution. At the final stage, it is better to get rid of the entire plant so that the disease does not affect other plants in the room.

Yucca cercospora blight (caused by Cercospora fungi)

Oval or irregularly shaped brown spots appear on the surface of the leaves, which grow over time. At high humidity, the development of the disease increases. To eliminate the disease, it is necessary to stop spraying, reduce air humidity, remove the affected stems and treat the plant with a fungicide.

These are not all of the yucca diseases that can occur in the plant from time to time.

Yucca white rot (caused by fungi of the genus Sclerotium)

As a result of exposure to this pathogen, all parts of the plant are damaged. But the most damaged leaves are those that are close to the surface of the earth. As a result of damage to the lower leaves, they not only become discolored, but also become watery.

If air humidity rises, the leaves become covered with bloom. white. On the cut of stems affected by the disease, large black formations are noticeable. These are the sclerotia of the fungus. In some cases, they can be seen on the surface of the stems.

The plant becomes infected through the soil. It is from here that the pathogen enters the lower part of the stem. When the temperature drops to +12-15°C, the disease manifests itself sharply. It also manifests itself at high humidity and sudden temperature changes.

The disease can also be triggered by excessive watering, moisture-intensive substrate, lack of lighting, high air humidity and excess nitrogen in the soil.

How to deal with this disease. This requires proper agricultural technology. If you see signs of disease, remove the affected tissue by grabbing some healthy tissue. Then treat with systemic fungicides such as Fundazol or Rovral. In some cases, the yucca is completely removed from the soil. The soil is then thrown away. The location of the plant is wiped with an antiseptic solution.

Leaf marginal necrosis (caused by a fungus from the genus Cytospora)

What are the signs of this disease? As a rule, marginal necrosis appears on older yucca leaves. It may appear at the end of the leaf or, as it were, on the side of the leaf blade. Marginal necrosis has a gray-brown tint. As the disease progresses, a concentric structure appears on the surface of the spots. The fruiting bodies of the fungus are black in spots and appear when kept moist.

How to deal with this disease? Avoid getting leaves wet if the weather is humid. If signs of disease appear on diseased leaves, they must be removed. The plant is treated with fungicides such as Ridomil Gold.

Thus, yucca can be well preserved if you notice the disease in time and begin to take the necessary measures. Even if the plant is fine, inspect it regularly. As a result, your plant will look good and delight you with its appearance for a very long time.

Yucca diseases. Problems arising from violation of containment conditions

Brown leaf tips with a yellow halo. The reason is too frequent watering.

The leaves wither, the woody stem moves in the pot, bad smell soil. The reason is too frequent watering: often in combination with low temperature of the contents and/or low temperature of the water used for irrigation.

The leaves lose their elasticity, first turn yellow, then turn brown. The reason is too infrequent watering.

Yellow spots appear on the leaves, which turn brown over time, and the plant tissue dries out in the affected areas. The reason is too high light intensity, usually in combination with high temperature.

If violations in maintenance are eliminated, yucca restores its decorative properties within several months.

Diseases of infectious origin - caused by bacteria or fungi

If we identify the symptoms listed below, we take preventive measures. If they do not lead to the desired result, then we dispose of the yucca along with the soil and pot.

1) Coniothyrium or brown leaf spot (Coniothyrium concentricum).

Symptoms: Affected leaves turn yellow and finally turn brown as the disease progresses. Affected areas are usually elliptical and scattered over the entire upper surface of the leaves.

Preventive measures: removing old affected leaves and eliminating the fact of their moistening (spraying, precipitation). As a preventative measure, it is possible to use systemic fungicides.

2) Cytosporina or gray leaf spot (Cytosporina).

Symptoms include punctate and marginal necrosis with predominant gray and brown fields around the damaged parts. The lesions appear as concentric rings of light and dark tissue. The disease is most common on older leaves.

Prevention of the disease: avoid spraying the plant, preventive treatment with systemic fungicides, for example Fundazol.

3) Fusarium stem rot (Fusarium spp).

Symptoms: The trunk softens and bright red ulcers appear on it.

There is no treatment - the plant is destroyed.

4) Fire blight (Sclerotium rolfsii).

The pathogen affects all parts of the plant, but most often lesions are found on the stems. White mycelium can be seen on the surface of the soil or stems. Round sclerotia form in almost any part of the plant or on the soil surface. Sclerotia are initially white and fluffy, approximately the size of a mustard seed. Once ripe, they become dark brown in color and harden.

The method of prevention is correct agricultural technology.

5) Root rot.

Symptoms: Watery spots appear on the roots. The outer layer of roots may survive, but the inner tissues quickly disintegrate. Spots covered with black-brown spores appear on the leaf blade. Infection with the pathogen usually occurs during transportation of planting material.

There is no treatment. Disease prevention: when planting, use only sterilized soil mixtures, follow the recommended frequency of watering, the soil mixture must have good drainage properties.

6) Bacterial rot.

The causative agent is Erwinia carotovora.

Symptoms: soft rot of the lower part of the plant. Sometimes plants have a fishy, rotten odor, characteristic of Erwinia infection.

Prevention methods: avoid spraying leaves, use uninfected planting material for propagation.

There is no treatment: if the plant is infected, it is disposed of.

Yucca cercospora blight.

Cercospora blight in yucca is caused by a fungus Cercospora sp.

Signs of the disease.

Brown, oval or indefinitely shaped spots appear on the leaves of the plant. As the disease progresses, the spots increase in size, become lighter in the center, and become more pronounced brown towards the edges.

With increased air humidity, active spraying, and excess moisture in the substrate, the risk of this disease increases. A

Control measures.

Spraying and waterlogging of the substrate should be avoided. At high air humidity, it is permissible to carry out preventive treatments with biological fungicides. If signs of disease appear, diseased leaves should be removed and the plant treated with systemic fungicides, for example, such as Fundazol, Topaz.

Yucca brown spot.

The disease is caused by a fungus Coniothyrium concentricum(Desm.) Sacc.

Signs of the disease.

Discolored small spots appear mainly on old yucca leaves. As the disease progresses, the spots turn yellow and then brown. After approximately 4 months of development, black fungal bodies form in the centers of the spots and during this period are easily visible to the naked eye. Sometimes a yellow halo forms around the spots.

The disease more often manifests itself when plants are actively sprayed and at high air humidity.

Control measures.

Avoid getting moisture on the leaves, especially in humid weather. If signs of disease appear, diseased leaves must be removed and the plant treated with fungicides, for example, such as Profit, Ridomil Gold.

Marginal necrosis of yucca leaves.

Marginal necrosis of yucca leaves can be caused by a fungus of the genus Cytospora.

Signs of the disease.

On leaves, mainly old ones, marginal necrosis appears - it can be either on the side of the leaf blade or at the end of the leaf. Marginal necrosis has a gray-brown color. As the disease progresses, a concentric structure of the spot appears. If kept moist, black fruiting bodies of the fungus appear on the spots.

Control measures.

In humid weather, it is necessary to avoid getting moisture on the leaves. If signs of disease appear, diseased leaves must be removed and the plant treated with fungicides, for example, such as Ridomil Gold.

Fusarium rot of yucca.

Fusarium rot of yucca is caused by fungi from the genus Fusarium.

Signs of the disease.

Soft rot develops at the base of the leaves, leading to the death of the leaves.

The pathogen persists in infected plants and in the substrate. The disease can also be transmitted through contact between a healthy and diseased plant.

With excessive moisture, too moisture-intensive substrate, with excessive fertilizing, high air humidity, the likelihood of the occurrence of this disease increases.

Control measures.

Correct conditions of agricultural technology. If signs of disease appear, spraying with fungicidal preparations is used, for example, Vitaros, Fundazol, Previkur. Severely damaged leaves should be removed.

White rot of yucca.

White rot of yucca is caused by fungi from the genus A Sclerotium.

Signs of the disease.

This pathogen attacks all parts of the plant, but most often the leaves closest to the ground are damaged. The affected lower leaves become discolored, become watery, and at high air humidity they become covered with a white coating. On a cut of the affected stems, large black formations are visible - sclerotia of the fungus. Sometimes they form on the surface of the stem.

Infection of plants occurs through the soil, from where the pathogen penetrates into the lower part of the stems. The disease manifests itself sharply at low air temperatures (12-15℃) and with sudden changes in temperature and high humidity. The disease is also provoked by excessive watering, too moisture-intensive substrate, high air humidity, lack of lighting, and excess nitrogen in the soil.

Control measures.

Correct agricultural technology. If signs of the disease appear, the affected tissue should be removed, including part of the healthy one, and treated with systemic fungicides, for example, such as Rovral, Fundazol. In some cases, it is better to remove the plant entirely, throw away the soil, and thoroughly wipe the area where the plant stood with an antiseptic solution.

In our article about yucca you can familiarize yourself with its cultivation and various types.

If you have any problems with your sansevieria, but you cannot determine what’s wrong with it yourself, you can always contact us for help at our flower forum.

Article prepared by: Marina and Alexander Mityaev

Description and structural features

Yucca in natural conditions grows in the subtropics and tropics. This is a low evergreen tree or bush. In more northern latitudes it can grow if wintering rules are observed. Yucca is valued for its beautiful long leaves and delicate flowers. The leaves are hard, narrow, and sword-shaped. Depending on the species, they can be pointed, covered with thin threads, or end with a spine. Their length can vary from 25 cm to 1 m, width from 2 to 7 cm. The color of the leaves can be different shades of green or bluish. They form a rosette, which can be located near the root or at the top of the trunk.

Yucca flowers are large bells collected in a panicle inflorescence that stands upright or bends towards the ground.

The color of the bluebells can be white, cream or yellow. The length of the panicle reaches 2 m in length. In places where it grows naturally, yucca is used for industrial purposes. Sugar is obtained from its juice, and fiber is extracted from its leaves, which is used to make ropes. In addition, it is used as an ornamental crop.

In regions located above the subtropics, yucca is grown as a houseplant or garden plant. Unfortunately, indoor yucca practically does not bloom at home. But with proper care, the garden will delight the owners with abundant flowering.

Yucca care at home

Yucca, as a subtropical plant, loves warmth and requires a lot of sun. It is advisable to take indoor yucca outside in the summer. Fresh air, but not in drafts. The temperature in summer should not exceed 25°C, in winter it should be lowered to 12°C. If the temperature is not reduced, the leaves will become thin and dull.

Special requirements for watering yucca:

You only need to water warm water. The temperature should not be lower than 30°C. When watering with water at room temperature, the vessels of the plants narrow, and moisture does not flow well to the stem and leaves. This can cause the roots to rot, causing the yucca to die. But there is no need to measure the temperature with a thermometer. It is enough to test the water with your hand. It should be warm. If it is taken from the water supply, it must first be left for at least a day. Do not close the dishes so that the chlorine can escape freely. If water is taken from a pump room or well, it is advisable to determine its composition. It should contain less sodium salts and more
You need to water the entire lump of soil. Water is poured until it spills and appears in the pan. This will indicate that all the soil in the pot has been moistened. But if you leave water in the pan for a long time, the roots will fester. Half an hour after watering, it is drained. This time is needed for the roots to absorb the required amount of moisture. If the pot is very large, it is inconvenient to remove it. Water is removed using a sponge or syringe.
Yucca stores moisture from the soil. She must use it periodically. This happens when the soil dries out. The next time you need to water the plant only after the entire lump of earth in the pot has dried out. This can be determined by testing the soil at a depth of 3 to 10 cm (depending on the depth of the pot or the size of the plant). It should be damp and the top layer dry.
Yucca tells you when to water by its appearance. Its leaves curl, and the threads on them straighten and hang; the plant needs to be watered.
Many types of yucca require high humidity. They need warm water every day. A tray with stones is installed in the room, which are constantly kept wet. Once a week, wash the leaves with a warm shower. Yucca ivory and aloe vera varieties do not need spraying.

Yucca grows and blooms well after fertilizing. Use mineral fertilizers, humus, and mullein infusion. The frequency of feeding is 2 times a month. But it is carried out only when the plant takes root. Do not feed sick plants.

Yucca plants that have reached a height of at least 30 cm can be pruned in the spring so that the bush becomes fluffy. The height of the plant after pruning will remain the same. Cut off the top with a sharp knife treated with alcohol. The cut area is sprinkled with crushed coal or crushed cinnamon. After a few weeks, new tufts of leaves will appear. Their number should not be more than 4, otherwise the bush will become heavy and unstable. The excess top can be planted separately.

Diseases and pests of yucca

Yucca reacts painfully to many factors:

Watering with cold water.
Drafts.
Excessive watering.
Soil hypothermia.
Root damage.

Excessive soil moisture combined with low temperatures can lead to rotting of the roots, and this, in turn, to the death of the plant. First, the leaves wither and fall off. If the cause is discovered in time, you need to remove the plant from the ground, remove damaged areas, and treat them with a disinfectant. When the cutting area dries out, plant the plant in the ground. But it is better to choose a more suitable area for this.

Root rotting is often combined with the appearance of yucca pests:

You need to fight pests by treating yucca with one of the insecticides (Aktara, Karbofos). Iskra BIO will help you get rid of spider mites. But first, before purchasing an insecticide, you need to treat the affected areas with a solution of laundry soap.

What does the poor appearance of the plant indicate:

The ends of the leaves turn brown from too dry air or drafts. This may also indicate that the plant needs watering. Light, dry spots indicate sunburn. Curled leaves indicate that the yucca is cold. You need to determine the cause and eliminate it.
Anthracnose is a fungal disease. Brown spots with a border form on the leaves yellow color. The edge of the spot is convex. As the disease progresses, they merge into large ones. High humidity promotes the appearance of anthracnose. Prevention in the apartment: do not spray the leaves, reduce the air humidity in the room. Treat with antifungal drugs (“Folli”). In the garden, they are treated with Saprol antifungal drugs, weeds are removed, and the vegetation around is thinned out so that air can pass freely between the leaves. Spill the soil around the plant with a solution of Fundazol. If the measures taken do not help, then it is better to remove the plant.
Sometimes yucca leaves develop white coating. Young leaves are especially susceptible to the disease. This occurs due to the plant being damaged by powdery mildew. This is a fungal disease, so the methods of dealing with it are the same as with anthracnose. You can spray the plant with Skor and Topaz at intervals of a week.

The result of the fight against the disease can be judged by the further development of the plant. If the growth that appears some time after treatment is healthy and beautiful, the treatment was effective. If it is also affected by powdery mildew, it will have to be pruned. Most often this helps to get rid of the disease. In severe cases of fungal infection, the plant stem may soften. In the initial stage, you need to remove the diseased areas and treat the cut areas.

Indoor yuccas can get fungal diseases:

Gray rot, which affects leaves and stems.
Cercospora - brown spots on the leaves, merging into one, with a light center and a dark edge.
Yellow mottle is a viral infection of leaves that appears as small yellow spots. They are located closer to the end of the sheet. The appearance of the disease is facilitated by aphids that carry the virus. Affected plants are dug up and burned.

Do not cut off wilted leaves from a healthy garden yucca plant. This may result in the plant not blooming. Purchased indoor yucca may shed its leaves. This is due to stress after moving. After a couple of weeks, the leaves will begin to grow. Yellowing of the lower leaves is a natural process. 2 years after formation, the leaf turns yellow and falls off.

More information can be found in the video:

What problems can you encounter when growing a flower?

The basic rule when caring for yucca is to avoid waterlogging the soil. If you water too often or too much, root rot or other diseases will begin. It is better to underwater a flower than to overwater it, since it tolerates drought better than a large amount of moisture.

Many people don’t know what to do when the yucca drops its leaves. But it is precisely this fact that most often indicates waterlogging.

The most common problems encountered when growing this plant:

lack of flowering,
bacterial burn
formation of brown spots on the leaves,
the leaves on the yucca are turning yellow,
the edges and tips of the leaves become brown,
the appearance of gray spots on the leaves,
the presence of rot on the trunk and root system.

In addition to diseases, yucca can also be affected by a variety of pests. Most often these are whiteflies, false scale insects, slugs, spider mites and mealybugs. How to deal with the above problems, we will consider in this article.

What to do if yucca does not bloom

Yucca blooms with a variety of beautiful flowers, painted in different shades. Moreover, buds should appear every summer if you follow all the rules of care, creating conditions close to natural. However, unfortunately, not everyone, even experienced gardeners, manages to achieve this. A prerequisite for cultivating yucca is the presence of long daylight hours, since it loves light very much, as well as the correct temperature. When growing in indoor pots, you will have to be content with only its gorgeous leaves.

Often the owners of such a specimen do not understand why the young plant does not bloom. For the first buds to appear, proper care is required for four to five years.

Bacterial burn

This disease is rarely observed. However, if it infects the plant, it does so entirely. In such cases, gardeners are interested in why the yucca turns yellow and how to save the plant. If you notice spots that over time acquire a dark black tint, then you are faced with a bacterial burn.

This trouble happens, in the vast majority of cases, due to improper growing conditions. Most likely it is observed heat air and humidity.

Treatment of this yucca disease (pictured) is very difficult. Therefore, to avoid such a problem, we recommend that when planting yucca, immediately use only new, specially treated pots and soil purchased in a store, which is intended for this type of plant. In this way, you can increase the flower’s endurance and resistance to this type of burn. In addition, yucca can become infected from other diseased plants located next to it. Or the carrier may be insects that damage the leaves or roots of the flower.

It is important to notice a bacterial burn in the very first days of its appearance, because if no measures are taken in time, it will no longer be possible to cope with this disease. And you’ll just have to throw away your favorite yucca. If you see several yellow-black spots on the leaves, immediately remove the damaged plates and additionally treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture or any antibiotic.

Brown spot

A similar disease is caused by the fungus Coniothyrium concentricum. The peculiarity of this disease is that it first appears on the lower leaves. It is the plates located at the very base that microorganisms infect first. At first, colorless areas can be seen on the leaves, which turn yellow over time. After a few weeks, these spots turn brown.

To correct the situation, immediately treat with fungicides, for example, such as:

Such preparations should be diluted in the proportions indicated on the packages and sprayed with a spray bottle. Repeated treatments should be carried out every ten days. Leaves that cannot be saved are best cut off completely.

To prevent brown spot, try to maintain the necessary conditions humidity and temperature. Monitor the frequency of watering. Neither abundant irrigation nor its complete absence is allowed.

What to do with brown leaf edges

A similar problem occurs when growing a flower indoors. Often, the tips of yucca leaves dry out in winter, when the heating season begins. Due to the operation of heating devices, the air in the room becomes very dry, which cannot but affect the condition of the plants. In most cases, the flower copes with such trouble. But sometimes the tips of the leaves may still begin to dry out.

To avoid this indoor yucca disease, it is necessary to increase the humidity in the room. This can be done in two ways: using special humidifiers, or frequent spraying from a spray bottle.

Another reason for the formation of brown edges on leaves can be constant drafts. Try changing the location of the plant.

Gray spot

One of the reasons why yucca turns yellow and dries out is gray spotting. This disease develops gradually. First, small spots of a grayish tint with brown edges form on the leaves, or the edge of the leaf acquires this color. Young shoots are rarely affected by this disease. As a rule, it affects the lower old sheets.

Fungicides are used to treat this yucca disease (pictured). Remove leaves that are already severely damaged and spray the plant with this preparation. To prevent the disease, use the medicinal solution periodically.

Watch the video: Transplanting and pruning yucca. Diseases and pests of yucca (December 2019).

- a plant of the Agave family. There are about 20 species. Some of them are grown in gardens, others as indoor flowers. Yucca is considered an unpretentious plant.

Yucca grows naturally in the subtropics and tropics. This is a low evergreen tree or bush. In more northern latitudes it can grow if wintering rules are observed. Yucca is valued for its beautiful long leaves and delicate flowers. The leaves are hard, narrow, and sword-shaped. Depending on the species, they can be pointed, covered with thin threads, or end with a spine. Their length can vary from 25 cm to 1 m, width from 2 to 7 cm. The color of the leaves can be different shades of green or bluish. They form a rosette, which can be located near the root or at the top of the trunk.

Yucca flowers are large bells collected in a panicle inflorescence that stands upright or bends towards the ground.

Yucca, as a subtropical plant, loves warmth and requires a lot of sun. In summer, it is advisable to take indoor yucca out into the fresh air, but not into drafts. The temperature in summer should not exceed 25°C, in winter it should be lowered to 12°C. If the temperature is not reduced, the leaves will become thin and dull.

Special requirements for watering yucca:

You only need to water with warm water. The temperature should not be lower than 30°C. When watering with water at room temperature, the vessels of the plants narrow, and moisture does not flow well to the stem and leaves. This can cause the roots to rot, causing the yucca to die. But there is no need to measure the temperature with a thermometer. It is enough to test the water with your hand. It should be warm. If it is taken from the water supply, it must first be left for at least a day. Do not close the dishes so that the chlorine can escape freely. If water is taken from a pump room or well, it is advisable to determine its composition. It should contain less sodium salts and more
You need to water the entire lump of soil. Water is poured until it spills and appears in the pan. This will indicate that all the soil in the pot has been moistened. But if you leave water in the pan for a long time, the roots will fester. Half an hour after watering, it is drained. This time is needed for the roots to absorb the required amount of moisture. If the pot is very large, it is inconvenient to remove it. Water is removed using a sponge or syringe.
Yucca stores moisture from the soil. She must use it periodically. This happens when the soil dries out. The next time you need to water the plant only after the entire lump of earth in the pot has dried out. This can be determined by testing the soil at a depth of 3 to 10 cm (depending on the depth of the pot or the size of the plant). It should be damp and the top layer dry.
Yucca tells you when to water by its appearance. Its leaves curl, and the threads on them straighten and hang; the plant needs to be watered.
Many types of yucca require high humidity. They need warm water every day. A tray with stones is installed in the room, which are constantly kept wet. Once a week, wash the leaves with a warm shower. Yucca ivory and aloe vera varieties do not need spraying.

Yucca grows and blooms well after fertilizing. Use mineral fertilizers, humus, infusion. The frequency of feeding is 2 times a month. But it is carried out only when the plant takes root. Do not feed sick plants.

Diseases and pests of yucca

Yucca reacts painfully to many factors:

Watering with cold water.
Drafts.
Excessive watering.
Soil hypothermia.
Root damage.

Root rotting is often combined with the appearance of yucca pests:

Mealybug
Spider mite
Shchitovka

What does the poor appearance of the plant indicate:

The ends of the leaves turn brown from too dry air or drafts. This may also indicate that the plant needs watering. Light, dry spots indicate sunburn. Curled leaves indicate that the yucca is cold. You need to determine the cause and eliminate it.
Anthracnose is a fungal disease. Brown spots with a yellow border appear on the leaves. The edge of the spot is convex. As the disease progresses, they merge into large ones. High humidity promotes the appearance of anthracnose. Prevention in the apartment: do not spray the leaves, reduce the air humidity in the room. Treat with antifungal drugs (“Folli”). In the garden, they are treated with Saprol antifungal drugs, weeds are removed, and the vegetation around is thinned out so that air can pass freely between the leaves. Spill the soil around the plant with a solution of Fundazol. If the measures taken do not help, then it is better to remove the plant.
Sometimes a white coating forms on yucca leaves. Young leaves are especially susceptible to the disease. This occurs due to damage to the plant. This is a fungal disease, so the methods of dealing with it are the same as with anthracnose. You can spray the plant with “Skor” and “” preparations at intervals of a week.

Indoor yuccas can get fungal diseases:

Gray rot, which affects leaves and stems.
Cercospora - brown spots on the leaves, merging into one, with a light center and a dark edge.
Yellow mottle is a viral infection of leaves that appears as small yellow spots. They are located closer to the end of the sheet. The appearance of the disease is facilitated by aphids that carry the virus. Affected plants are dug up and burned.

More information can be found in the video: