One of the main requirements when choosing a bag is its durability. With active everyday use, the owner naturally expects that the purchased model will not change its shape, will not change its color, will not stain things, and will be quite durable. All this depends on the type of leather and the technology of its production.
Usually bags are made from various animal skins: cattle (buffalo, bull, veal), sheep, pigs. More exotic materials are often used - crocodile, snake, ostrich or stingray skin.
Accessories made from exotic leather are quite expensive and do not have a long service life, but they are the main task- this confirms the high status of the owner and attracts attention.
Pigskin is practically not used in the production of bags and accessories, since it is quite tough and does not stretch well, and cracks also appear in it.
For everyday use, it is better to choose a bag made of bovine or calfskin; it is also marked with the abbreviation KRS. The thickness of this material is usually from 1 to 2.5 mm, which ensures its high strength. The leather looks good, and over time, a “patina” forms on the surface, which gives it a more sophisticated look. Sometimes you can find information about tanning - this is the process of impregnating leather with various tannins, this is necessary for the strength and ductility of future products.
Oiled nubuck is also a popular material for making bags. It has a fine fleecy feel to the touch, obtained by grinding with fine abrasive materials, which after grinding is impregnated with a special oil-based substance.
Smooth skin
Made from high-quality leather with a smooth texture, the skins of young cattle are used. When finishing, it is not sanded, only the wool is removed - thus preserving the natural appearance of the front surface. The pores remain in their natural state: the skin “breathes” and, at the same time, the service life of the product increases. Products made from this material are more wear-resistant. During wear, a natural “patina” appears on the surface of the product and it becomes more beautiful every year. The highest quality furniture, bags and shoes are made from this grade of leather.
Nappa leather
Nappa is a thin and soft semi-aniline tanned leather with good elasticity and an even shiny or matte color. This is a material with good decorative properties, which has many different options - nappa can be with special perforation or have a smooth surface. The only characteristic that remains unchanged is the reliability and high quality of such material.
This variety is produced from the skins of young and adult animals. The skins are double tanned, which also increases the softness of this type of leather. Nappa is an extremely soft and flexible material commonly used to make high-quality wallets, toiletry sets, and luxury business bags.
Cattle leather
Calfskin is considered the highest quality and most valuable. It is used to make shoes, clothing, belts, accessories, furniture upholstery, and is also an affordable and popular material for making bags. Production includes chrome and vegetable tanning. Accessories made from calfskin are very elegant and do not wear out for a long time.
The finishing process includes only light polishing - harsh impacts can damage its natural beauty. This grade does not crack at low temperatures, does not break at bends, has optimal softness, high strength characteristics and natural texture. A bag made of cattle leather can withstand heavy loads and “breathe” perfectly.
Buffalo leather
Buffalo leather - in its main characteristics is very close to bull, but the skins have an even larger size and an interesting “crinkled” texture. They are often vegetable tanned.
Pull-up leather
These are types of leather that have been treated with oils, waxes and dyes so that when stretched they become lighter. Considered a high quality variety, usually represented by the Ashwood Leather and Gianni Conti brands.
Leather Floter
Flotter (sometimes spelled Flotter) is soft drum-dyed leather with uniform padding. Resistant to wet and dry friction - an ideal material for sewing tote bags.
Leather Crust
Crust is leather with a natural drum dyed grain pattern (through dyeing) without additional surface treatment. High-quality crust is difficult to distinguish from smooth varieties.
Oiled leather
Oiled leather is a finely fleecy material that, after sanding, is impregnated with a special oil-based substance. The use of such leather in production is a distinctive feature of the Visconti brand.
Saffiano leather
Saffiano or as it is also called saffiano - calfskin with hot diagonal embossing. The design is applied using a special machine for 10-15 seconds at a temperature of 165 degrees Celsius. After treatment, it is covered with a special wax, which then protects it from scratches and dirt.
Aniline leather
The surface of such leather is painted with transparent dyes, leaving the grain natural and clearly visible. Visible natural defects emphasize the uniqueness and “natural origin” of the skin. The surface layer has minimal protection and, accordingly, the greatest sensitivity to external influences. To preserve natural beauty genuine leather constant care is required from the first day of operation.
Characteristics:
- natural look;
- natural grain and marks;
Semi-aniline leather
The surface of semi-aniline leather is covered with a slightly pigmented layer, which helps even out its color and hide minor defects. Then special dyes are applied by spraying to recreate the natural appearance of the leather. This type of skin has a weak protective layer, so it is recommended to use special products to protect it.
Characteristics:
- natural grained surface;
- resistance to light;
- greater practicality (compared to aniline leather);
- ease of use (the skin “breathes”).
Pigmented leather (pigmented leather)
Currently, a popular technology for finishing leather is known as pigmentation: special compositions based on pigments and resins form a uniform surface of the leather, onto which a protective coating is then applied. This type of skin can be easily distinguished from other types by its dense, uniform color. Ideal for making items used every day (such as furniture and car seats). Pigmented leather is quite easy to care for and can be completely restored if necessary.
Characteristics:
- thick surface color;
- resistance to light;
- good masking of defects;
- ease of care.
Nubuck leather
Nubuck is aniline leather that has been sand-polished to give the top layer a fine, hairy effect. A distinctive feature of nubuck is its special appearance and “velvety” surface. Requires especially careful care using special products designed specifically for this skin type.
Characteristics:
- velvet effect;
- special softness;
- increased comfort.
LeatherPull Up
Fashion trends change over time, but waxed and oiled leather always remains popular. The name "Pull Up" was given to this leather by the owner. famous manufacturer Timberland leather shoes. Pull Up lightens when stretched and flexed.
Characteristics:
- pleasant to the touch surface;
- stylishness;
- special appearance.
LeatherBycast
This type of leather is the result of a special processing technology, which improves the quality of the product while maintaining its properties (thickness and softness). A special film on which an adhesive is applied is applied to a paper backing and pressed to the skin, then the backing is removed. As a result, the skin surface is perfectly smooth and uniform. When stretched, Bycast leather brightens, and when returned to its original position, it restores its original color. Often this skin type is determined precisely by this criterion.
Characteristics:
- strength;
- uniform color.
Currently, we are very actively purchasing goods from online stores. Often, a buyer is attracted by the price on sale; colorful photographs make them take out a credit card and pay for the goods. However, as popular wisdom says: “If you hurry, you will make people laugh!” In order to be guaranteed to receive a product of exactly the quality that the buyer expects, it is necessary not only to carefully study the product from the photo and fluently read the description, but also to have some theoretical knowledge that will help to avoid annoying mistakes and wasteful expenses.
Today we will talk about leather products, or more precisely about the material itself - leather. Man has been using leather in everyday life since ancient times. After one or another processing method, the animal’s skin could be used either as a fur product or as one or another type of leather. Clothes, shoes, equipment, covers and some parts for weapons, as well as some elements of military armor, were made from leather.
Leather is a strong and durable material. It has good protective properties, is elastic and durable with proper care. Aesthetically attractive, it can give things both a sophisticated elegant and a reliable, rugged appearance. The science of leatherwork has continuously developed and improved over the centuries. There are many methods of tanning and processing leather, about which a lot of specialized literature has been written. Like any other area of human activity, leather production uses its own special terminology, which is also used in the description of goods in the store.
Genuine Leather
- Classic cattle leathers:
Cowhide ( Bull leather , Steerhide ) – very dense, tough, durable leather with a thickness of 2.5 to 5 mm. Durable, wear-resistant, practically insensitive to moisture. Used for the manufacture of haberdashery goods (bags, purses, backpacks, belts in ethnic, “country” and “crazy” styles), jackets, travel and special footwear (boots, ankle boots, boots), as well as decorative and gift items (from book bindings to key chains and hairpins).
An example of a leather jacket made from cowhide. The photo shows the thickness of the leather and its characteristic texture.
Buffalo leather ( Buffalo leather )
– the densest, toughest and heaviest of natural leathers with a thickness of 0.9 to 3 mm with a characteristic “coarse-grained” (or “crumpled”) texture of the front surface. Resistant to moisture and mechanical damage. It is used similarly to cowhide, but is much less common and more expensive. Very popular in the manufacture of jackets and accessories for bikers. 
An example of a buffalo leather bag. 
Cowhide ( Cowhide , neat " s leather ) – plastic, elastic, durable leather with an impressive natural texture on the front side. It accepts various types of dressing, processing and coloring well. Allows you to obtain a significant range of leather materials of various colors and textures, including elite and exclusive ones. It has a wide range of applications, including: sewing clothes, shoes and haberdashery, upholstery of furniture, upholstery and decoration of car interiors, residential and office premises, manufacturing of decorative and gift items.
Cowhide from the American leather company Horween.
An example of a handmade belt from cowhide. Product from the Japanese platform Rakuten.
Cow's skin (WITHow leather )
- durable leather, less thick and stiff than bovine leather. It has a pleasant natural texture and is wear-resistant. Used for making haberdashery goods, outerwear, shoes and accessories in a moderate price range. 
Women's bag made of cow leather. Mass production. China. 
Calfskin ( Calfskin ,
calf ,
veal )
– thin, soft, plastic, silky to the touch leather, has a natural “breathable” structure, high strength and wear resistance. The characteristics, uses, and costs of calfskin vary depending on the age of the animals. Skin of dairy calves (up to 6 months) – opoek– drapes perfectly and holds its shape, has high elasticity and resistance to deformation. High-quality clothing and accessories are made from it. Skin of calves up to one year of age - outgrowth– thicker, less elastic and used for the manufacture of high-quality shoes, bags and other haberdashery products and accessories. The toughest and densest skin is that of calves up to 18 months of age. It is used both for the manufacture of high-quality shoes, bags, suitcases and various souvenirs, and in interior design. 
Italian gloves Calfskin. Shop epauletnewyork.
- Classic leathers from the skins of domestic and wild animals:
Horse leather ( Horsehide , Horse leather ) – fairly dense, high-strength leather of medium plasticity, requiring quite a long processing time to achieve quality. Used for the manufacture of high-quality men's outerwear, hats, shoes, accessories, as well as natural upholstery and lining materials.
A modern replica of an American flight jacket from the Second World War from the company Aeroleatherclothing.
Some jackets made from such leather are recommended to be specially shrunk (much like a pair of raw denim jeans) and then broken in. If anyone is interested, here are the instructions.
Goatskin (Goat skin /leather) – delicate and soft, very thin and durable, has a unique wave-like pattern, is quite waterproof, retains heat well, is plastic and elastic. Used to make high quality, elegant accessories and lightweight outerwear.
Leather jacket made of goatskin from an American company Alpha Industries.
Deerskin ( Deerskin , Deer leather, doeskin , buckskin ) – elastic, durable, velvety, retains its shape well even with frequent changes in temperature and humidity. During the dressing process, it is treated with animal fats, retains heat well, and protects from wind and moisture. As a rule, it is used for the manufacture of men's shoes, briefcases, bags, gloves and other accessories, less often for sewing outerwear.
For example, here is a bag from an American company, known for its very attentive attitude to materials and details.
The characteristic texture of the material is visible here.
Sometimes deerskin, with the help of special processing, can, on the contrary, be quite tough. For example, Indian-made deerskin Parflech, is characterized as quite tough. Currently used for making accessories in ethnic style. Term Parflech It is also used for similar processing of elk and buffalo leather.
Moose skin (Elk Skin) – elegant, durable, silky to the touch leather, similar in properties to deer leather, but has a slightly more porous structure. Used for sewing men's outerwear and accessories.
This is what the details of a hunting jacket made of elk leather look like.
The use of elk leather in FBT moccasins from the iconic Japanese manufacturer Visvim.
Here you can see the texture of the leather and the hand stitching used by the craftsman.
Sheepskin - sheep skin (Sheepskin) – flexible, soft, elastic skin, with high elongation. It is perfectly processed and retains its desired shape. It is considered one of the best materials for making high-quality fashion clothing, hats and accessories.
Men's jacket from the site amazon.co.uk.
Pigskin (Pigskin) – fairly thin and light leather with a characteristic large-pore texture. It accepts dressing and coloring well, but is not durable or water resistant. Used for the mass production of inexpensive haberdashery goods, clothing, shoes, accessories, upholstery and lining materials.
Wallet made of pigskin. Area Ebay.
Case for penknife made of pigskin.
- Exotic leathers:
Crocodile skin ( Crocodile skin / leather ) – characterized by noble beauty, complex, time-consuming and labor-intensive processing, strength, elasticity, absolute resistance to moisture and dirt, and very high cost. Based on raw materials, properties and price, they are divided into: leather cayman ( Caiman skin / leather ) – more rigid and less durable; actual crocodile skin and leather alligator ( Alligator skin / leather ) . Footwear, clothing, haberdashery and accessories made of crocodile leather are made primarily by hand by the highest class craftsmen and adorn the collections of the world's leading designers.
Wallet made of crocodile skin.
Watch bracelet made of crocodile leather. Handmade by the Japanese manufactory KC"S.
Snake skin ( Snakeskin , Snake leather ) – smooth and elastic, with fantastic patterns and textures, strong, durable and perfectly resistant to various types of dressing, processing and coloring. The most popular leather python ( Python skin / leather ) And cobras ( Cobra skin / leather ) . Snakeskin is used to make shoes, clothing and accessories, giving even the smallest item originality and uniqueness.
Cowboy style wallet made of snakeskin.
Ostrich leather ( Ostrich skin / leather ) – dense, flexible, quite durable leather, has a very impressive texture of the front surface. One of the most popular materials in the collections of many famous designers. Used for the manufacture of shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items, decorative elements and interior decoration.
Ostrich leather gloves. The characteristic texture is visible.
Kangaroo leather ( Kangaroo skin / leather ) – plastic and springy, light and durable, has high air permeability and hygroscopicity, perfectly retains its properties and shape in finished products. Used for sewing clothes, shoes, including sports shoes, haberdashery and accessories.
Hiking boots made of kangaroo leather from an American brand.
Shark skin ( Shark skin / leather ) – is considered the most durable among natural leathers, while being light and elastic. In its natural state it is covered with very hard and sharp scales, which are quite difficult to remove. Shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items and various accessories, decorative elements and souvenirs are made from shark skin.
Shark skin wallet, handmade. Japan.
Stingray skin ( Stingray skin / leather ) – has a very attractive fine-grained texture of the front surface, is very durable and difficult to manufacture and process, but is waterproof, resistant to dirt and does not require special care. It is used to make high-quality outerwear, shoes, haberdashery and accessories, decorative elements and even women's jewelry.
Iphone case made of stingray leather.
Methods of tanning, dyeing and finishing leather
Crust ( Krust ) – a general designation for dense leathers with a preserved natural grain surface, obtained primarily from the hides of cattle.
Such leathers undergo chrome or chrome-free tanning and are subjected to top or through dyeing. To protect from moisture, the front surface of the crust is treated with natural wax, while maintaining the natural breathability of the skin. Crust is used for the manufacture of shoes, haberdashery and office products, furniture upholstery, the manufacture of riding goods (saddles, harnesses) and goods special purpose(sheaths, bags, holsters, etc.). Products made from trust are durable; with prolonged use in places of bends and constant friction, they acquire more dark color(patination) and the effect of natural aging.
Vegan– crust tanned with substances of natural (vegetable) origin.
Both cattle hides and pig skins are used to produce the vegan product. Vegan is used to make decorative and gift items, accessories and household items in ethnic, “country” and “crazy” styles, elements of traditional costumes, goods for riding (saddles, harnesses) and special purposes (sheaths, game bags, holsters, etc. .) self made.
Smooth skin– a general designation for high-quality and elite leathers with a natural grain surface, obtained from calf, goat and sheep leather, the skin of young cows and bulls, in rare cases - from pig and foal skin.
The front surface of smooth leather is not processed at all or undergoes minimal refinement by spraying wax, resin or paint, sometimes using light dust embossing. Smooth leather is flexible, retains natural breathability, and, like crust, is prone to natural patination during use. They are used for sewing clothes and shoes of the highest class, making accessories, haberdashery and gift items, prestigious furniture, decorating and finishing interiors.
Aniline leather (Aniline leather ) – smooth premium leather, with a thin, non-pigmented protective shell applied to the painted surface. Poorly protected from external influences, most prone to patination.
Semi-aniline and aniline-plus leather ( Semi - aniline leather ) – aniline leather with additional coating of pigments and dyes. A little tougher and lower quality, however, more resistant to external influences.
Skin with corrected facial surface ( Corrected grain leather ) – semi-aniline leather, subjected to multi-stage processing until the front surface is perfectly aligned, applied with a polymer coating and light embossing. Tougher and lower quality than semi-aniline leather, but has reliable protection against moisture and dirt.
Nappa (Nappa leather ) – soft and elastic semi-aniline leather with a corrected grain surface with a thickness of 0.5 to 1 mm, made from sheepskin and cattle hides. The hides are subjected to double tanning and various types of additional processing to give various decorative effects. Nappa is used to make hats, outerwear and lightweight clothing, haberdashery, various accessories and decorative elements.
Velor leather) – soft and flexible leather with short, thick hair. Velor is made from dense, small skins of pigs and cattle, by chrome tanning followed by sanding the front or back side of the skin. “Front” velor is obtained by grinding the front side of the skin (merei), “bakhtarmy” velor is obtained by grinding the back side of the skin (bakhtarma). The front side of “bakhtarmy” velor is polished. Velor is not durable and resistant to moisture and dirt. Used for the production of outerwear, shoes and haberdashery. To increase water resistance and service life, velor must be subjected to additional processing, and products made from it must be carefully cared for.
Suede (chamois leather) – soft, thin, durable, well-stretchable velvety leather, with thick short pile without shine on both sides. Made from fat tanned leather, processed on both sides. It has a porous structure, perfectly permeates water and air, retains its shape and properties when wet and after drying. Suede is resistant to temperature changes and some caustic substances, and does not cause allergic reactions. High-quality suede is obtained from the feathers, skins of young deer, elk, goats and sheep and is used for the manufacture of clothing, linen, hats, light dress shoes, orthopedic products, various accessories and jewelry. From the skins of adult sheep and deer, technical and rubbing suede is obtained, which are used in industry.
Laika ( kidskin , dogskin ) – thin elastic leather of light pastel colors, with a perfectly smooth outer surface. Laika is made from both classic types of raw materials - the skins of lambs, kids, foals and dogs, and from non-traditional ones - the skins of cats and rats. The skins are tanned using chrome, chrome-fat or aluminum tanning. Despite its softness and tenderness, husky is quite durable and wear-resistant. It is mainly used for the manufacture of gloves, decorative items and jewelry, much less often in the manufacture of light footwear and haberdashery. Laika does not tolerate moisture well, and after drying it loses its shape and properties. Laika products require proper care.
Nubuck (nubuk)
– exquisite leather with very fine pile on the front side, has a porous “breathing” structure, and fairly high strength. Unlike suede, it is made from denser cattle hides, subjected to chrome tanning and sanding only on the front side. It is mainly used for the manufacture of men's, women's and children's shoes and as a furniture material, less often for sewing outerwear. In order for nubuck products to last longer and maintain their appearance, they require careful care with special products. 
Nubuck-oil (nubuk-oil)
– nubuck with additional fat impregnation. It has a characteristic oily surface and a slightly vintage look, but is practically insensitive to moisture and is easy to clean. Shoes made from nubuck oil are more practical and durable. 
Crazy (Crazy leather)
- Exquisite leather with an elegant matte finish and a pull-up effect. Unlike nubuck, after sanding it undergoes a special stretching treatment and a wax coating. This treatment gives the effect of lightening and “floating” the color in places where the skin is stretched. It is also used for making shoes and as a furniture material. 
Morocco ( Morocco leather)
– high-quality, specially tanned leather, stamped and dyed in rich, bright colors. Made from sheep and calf leather, it is highly durable, resistant to dirt and mechanical damage, and has an elegant, rich appearance. Used for making stylish bags and accessories, decorative items and jewelry. 
Split (Split leather)
– natural leather material obtained by mechanical separation – sanding – of natural leather into layers, usually from 3 to 6 layers. Chromium and chrome-fat leathers of cattle and pigs are subjected to exfoliation. By lamination, the front, middle and back (bakhtarmyan) splits are obtained. Thin grain splits are used to produce high-quality haberdashery and photo leathers. Thick front and middle splits form split velor, used for the manufacture of technical footwear, workwear and for the manufacture of furniture leather. Small splits and trimmings are used to make glue and technical gelatin. 
Shagreen (shagreen leather)
– dense leather with a decorative convex-grained texture of the front surface made of untanned leather. It was made from the saddle cloth of horses and kulans and painted in green color. Nowadays it is made from sheep and goat skin. Used primarily for decorative consumer goods and as industrial leather. 
Galisha (French galuchat) – shagreen obtained from the skins of stingrays and sharks, which have a natural granular structure. It is used to make shoes, outerwear, haberdashery items and various accessories, decorative elements and souvenirs. 
Kid (fr. chevreau, English . kidskin ) – soft, light, dense leather with a peculiar wavy pattern on the front surface. Traditionally, chevreau was made from thin chrome-tanned dairy goat skins and had properties similar to husky. Nowadays it is made from sheep, lamb and calf skins. Chevro is inelastic, waterproof and breathable. Due to its protective properties, it is one of the best materials for sewing shoes. It is also used to make various haberdashery items, decorative elements and souvenirs.
Chevrette (Chevrette leather) - elastic, viscous, dense and loose leather obtained from young sheepskin by chrome tanning. The pattern of the front surface resembles chevro, but is much less durable and of poorer quality. Used for the manufacture of outerwear, shoes and haberdashery. To increase strength, loose chevrette is treated with polymer and other materials. A more durable type of chevrette, better suited for sewing shoes, is obtained from the skins of sheep of coarse-wool steppe breeds.
Cordovan ( Cordovan ) – durable, strong, elastic exclusive vegetable tanned leather with a shiny smooth front surface. It is made from separate sections of horse hide by very long hand-dressing (about 6 months). Cordovan is waterproof, durable, easy to clean, and retains its shine for a long time. Used for sewing exclusive men's shoes.
Famous Indy boots from the American company Alden.
Artificial substitutes for natural leather
Leather MF ( Microfiber synthetic leather ) – an artificial substitute for genuine leather based on microfiber - the finest synthetic microfibers of polyester and polyamide. Microfiber (MF) is characterized by lightness and high strength, it is plastic and springy, resistant to light and chemicals, allows the formation of materials of various structures, including textiles and knitwear, and does not accumulate static electricity. MF leathers have excellent water resistance and breathability, are resistant to abrasion, retain color and shape well during long-term use, are easy to clean and do not absorb dirt, have virtually no odor of their own and do not perceive foreign odors.
MF skin appearance almost indistinguishable from genuine leather. This effect is achieved through high-quality imitation of the texture of the front and back sides of the leather. MF leathers are free from congenital and acquired surface defects characteristic of natural leathers. When making MF leather, you can obtain almost any texture, color, and decorative effects on rolled material of various widths.
MF leathers are used for casual and sports footwear, as well as furniture and automotive leathers. The use of MF leather allows us to save the lives of animals raised for their natural leather.
PU leather ( Polyurethane leather ) – a high-tech multi-layer product based on defective genuine leather. The damaged outer layer of genuine leather is replaced with ultra-fine fibers made of high-quality polyurethane (PU) - this is how PU leather is obtained. PU leather has through pores and the properties of a “breathable” and hygroscopic material, it is lightweight, resistant to mechanical stress, and tolerates low temperatures well. PU leather manufacturing technology allows you to obtain the front layer of any colors and textures without compromising the breathability and ductility of the material. Often, products made from PU leather look more attractive than those made from genuine leather.
PU leather is used to make elegant outerwear and lightweight clothing, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, jewelry and decorative items, as well as furniture and automotive leathers.
Camera case made of Polyurethane leather
PVC leather, vinyl leather ( Polyvinyl chloride, Vinyl synthetic leather ) – material made of monolithic or porous polyvinyl chloride (PVC) applied to a fiber base. The basis of vinyl artificial leather can be fabric, knitwear, various types of non-woven materials made from natural or synthetic fibers. The properties of vinyl artificial leather for a specific purpose - strength, flexibility, extensibility, springiness, fluidity, drape - are ensured by the use of various base materials. The density of vinyl artificial leather is given by impregnation with polymer compositions. Thus, by varying the bases and additional processing methods, it is possible to obtain vinyl artificial leather with any predetermined properties. Vinyl leather is waterproof, resistant to abrasion, retains its color and shape well during long-term use, is easy to clean and does not absorb dirt, has no odor of its own and does not perceive foreign odors.
Vinyl leather is used for the manufacture of elegant outerwear and lightweight clothing, youth fashionable clothing, underwear, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, accessories, jewelry and decorative elements, as well as furniture and automobile leather.
Eco leather (Eco leather) – a material made of microporous “breathable” polyurethane applied to a fabric base made of natural or polyester materials. A unique material that has all the best qualities of natural leather and does not have its disadvantages. It has excellent hygienic properties, does not require special care, is durable, lightweight and wear-resistant. Visually indistinguishable from genuine leather. As the thickness of the polyurethane layer increases, the quality and performance properties improve, but the hardness of the eco-leather also increases.
It is used for sewing clothes and linen, dress and sports shoes, haberdashery, accessories, household items, jewelry and decorative elements, as well as furniture and automobile leather.
- Special artificial leather substitutes:
Faux suede (Artificial chamois)
– textile imitation of natural suede, material made of cotton and polyester fibers on an adhesive basis. To protect against moisture and contamination, the material is coated with Teflon coating. To impart rigidity, the material is laminated on one side - subjected to high-temperature gluing to the substrate. Retains its shape and properties when washed and after drying, is resistant to temperature changes, and does not cause allergic reactions. In appearance it differs little from its natural counterpart, but is more durable and does not require special care. It is used for hats, lightweight inexpensive shoes and various accessories, car interior trim, as well as in the production of furniture. 
Artificial nubuck (Artificial nubuck leather, Synthetic nubuck leather
) – imitation of natural nubuck made of PU leather. In appearance it is almost no different from its natural counterpart, it is more resistant to moisture and dirt, and does not require special care. Mainly used for making shoes, haberdashery and accessories. 
Patent faux leather (Synthetic patent leather) – artificial leather with the front surface coated with varnish. Made from all types of artificial leather. With high quality, it is in no way inferior to natural analogues, but is cheaper and less demanding in care. Varnish artificial leather is used for tailoring clothes, hats, haberdashery and accessories, making men's, women's and children's dress shoes, interior decoration, as well as in the production of furniture. Quality depends on the manufacturer and type of material.
Stretch leather (Synthetic stretch l weather) - thin, elastic, springy material. Made from all types of artificial leather. Stretch vinyl artificial leather and eco-leather are more common. It is used for sewing clothes, concert costumes and various accessories. Looks impressive and does not require special care. Quality depends on the manufacturer and type of material.
Leather print (Synthetic p rinted leather)
– material with a pattern applied by one or a combination of different methods. Made from all types of artificial leather. When making leather prints, embossing, engraving, applying various inclusions, varnishing and many other techniques can be used. Artificial leather prints are significantly superior in range to their natural counterparts. 
Perforated leather (Perforated s synthetic leather) – material with holes cut or punched through its entire surface. Made from all types of artificial leather. It is used in making shoes, outerwear, haberdashery and accessories, in the production of furniture and car finishing.
Leather with embroidery ( Embroidered s synthetic leather )
- material with patterns embroidered on the front surface. Made from all types of artificial leather, except PU leather. Unlike natural analogues, artificial leather can be easily processed in industrial and household sewing machines. The range of artificial leather embroidered with complex patterns, lace and ribbons is very large. Artificial leather with embroidery are very widely used in tailoring clothes, hats, accessories, interior decoration and furniture making. 
Examples of descriptions of leather goods in stores
Now let's try to move from theory to practice. We will try to look at different products in stores and try to apply what we have learned.
For example, let's look at the description of these boots in the popular LLbean store.
The description clearly states the use of bison leather without any tricks.
By zooming in on the photo we can see the texture of the skin.
Let's look at the bomber jacket from Alpha Industries. The description also clearly indicates the use of natural sheepskin.
Boots Dr. martens 1461. The description clearly indicates the synthetic origin of the materials. However, these boots are unlikely to be of poor quality.
Sometimes in stores information about materials is not given explicitly. Terms such as "Premium leather" may be used. At the same time, anything can be meant by this term. From any type of genuine leather to regular leatherette with some kind of processing. As a rule, stock stores with discounted goods are not very scrupulous in these matters. For example, here are women's boots from the 6pm store. The description doesn't say anything about the leather itself, it just says "Premium".
Therefore, it is advisable to make purchases in such stores when a person already knows the product he is buying and has an idea about it.
Conclusion
I hope that this material was interesting and useful for readers of the resource.
Now, reading the description of a particular product, the buyer will be more interested in the material and pay less attention to the marketing gimmicks of some stores.
Having replenished his baggage of “consumer” knowledge with the above information, a person will be able to understand the product being purchased much better, having greater erudition, he will be able to pass by something with a calm soul, and become quite reasonably interested in something. Perhaps someone will approach purchases much more consciously, not buying things of mediocre quality, just because of the price at sales. Knowing about the properties and characteristics of a particular type of leather, a person will be able to choose a product that will most fully meet the buyer’s requirements. In the end, there is no such thing as “harmful” knowledge :)
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After a recent review, in addition to my disagreement with its author, I wondered, but in some ways the author of the review is right, how does the average person know that “Premium leather” is not what it seems at first glance :-)
Therefore, I asked Dmitry to understand this difficult issue both for himself and for our readers. In my opinion, the article turned out to be good and comprehensive. I’ll definitely keep it in my bookmarks and use it as a cheat sheet.
Dmitry, thank you very much :-)
Full-face and partial-face aniline leathers have characteristics that are acceptable and unique to each hide. These signs do not affect the comfort and use of the leather.
Aniline leather with natural grain.
This is the surface of the skin without any attempt to hide or disguise the animal's natural marks acquired during life. Healed scratches, insect bites, veins, age folds - all this makes up the distinctive properties and charm of “natural characteristics”.
1. Bites 2. Fat folds 3. Scratches from scratching 4. Salt stains 5. Dung burns 6. Warts 7. Scratches 8. Scars
Aniline (semi-aniline) leathers with a partially corrected face.
This leather is coated with a small amount of pigment to make the color uniform and hide minor imperfections, this gives a little protection to the leather.
The natural grain pattern varies from hide to hide, or even within the hide itself it can vary.
Fat folds
Scratches
Different grain sizes
Natural facial structure
Operation and care of natural furniture leather.
Although leather is a durable and surprisingly easy-to-handle material, it can be damaged by heat, exposure to direct sunlight, and cleaning agents not intended for use on it. When caring for furniture made of genuine leather, it is not recommended to use solvent, acetone, washing powder. It is better to wipe the skin with a damp soft cloth. Please remember that stains must be removed immediately. Leather furniture will always look good if it is treated once or twice a year with a special leather cleaner (you should first try it on a small area of leather in an inconspicuous place). Dyed textile materials may affect light color skin.
Don't let it rise pets on a leather sofa, as sharp claws can scratch the leather. In addition, saliva and other animal secretions can damage the facial layer of skin.
ATTENTION! It also has a harmful effect on the skin sweat (high acidity) a person, which can lead to the destruction of the facial layer of natural leather.
Although leather is a durable and surprisingly easy-to-handle material, it can be damaged by heat, common cleaning products and exposure to direct sunlight, causing it to lose its original appearance. Avoid placing leather furniture in the sun and near heating radiators and other sources of high temperature. The distance should be at least 30-40 cm.
Avoid excessive friction and wipe leather furniture with light movements. The surface of the leather should not be rubbed with anything harsh - no powders or shoe brushes! Otherwise, you may scratch the upholstery or damage its protective coating.
Residues of food products must be removed immediately, rather than waiting until they dry, using a damp cloth or sponge soaked in soapy water.
Sand or dirt from clothing can damage the outer surface of the upholstery material (leather).
Sea water upon contact with the natural leather of the sofa, it can damage the top protective layer (loss of the original appearance).
Care of semi-aniline and patent leathers.
Stains and liquid. Never wait for a puddle to dry on its own. Immediately blot up excess moisture with a soft cloth or sponge. If particularly necessary, the stain can be gently wiped with a soft damp cloth or sponge soaked in warm soapy water. Then wipe with a dry wool cloth. Before using as directed, wait until the skin is completely dry.
Animal and vegetable oils and fats. Remove stains with a clean, dry cloth. Avoid the use of aggressive substances - stain removers, cleaning solvents, turpentine, furniture varnish, oils, drying oils, abrasive cleaners and any other chemical solutions. You can use suitable products to care for these more protected types of leather. We recommend wax-based products designed for the care of furniture leather. Regular treatment keeps the leather soft and prevents it from drying out. Treatment is simple: shake the bottle thoroughly, apply a few drops and rub with a soft, damp cloth. Then immediately wipe off any residue with a dry cloth.
Caring for aniline leather.
Stains and liquid. Immediately remove excess liquid with a clean absorbent cloth. Allow the remaining moisture to dry naturally. Never use a hair dryer to dry a wet area.
Animal and vegetable oils and fats. Eliminate excess animal or vegetable oil or grease with a clean, dry cloth and leave as is. Soon the stain will be absorbed into the skin on its own. Do not use water or attempt to remove such stains. Avoid the use of soap, cleaning solvents, furniture varnish, oils, drying oils, abrasive cleaners, detergents, ammonia water or any other chemical solutions. As a rule, insufficient care is less dangerous for the skin than excess. It is enough to clean aniline leather thoroughly once a year. First wipe the furniture with damp chamois using non-alkaline soap, dissolved in warm distilled water. Be careful not to get your skin too wet and don't use regular tap water, as it often contains limescale and can leave stains or white circles. Use a clean piece of suede that has not been used before. It is not advisable to use an old piece of suede, because it may contain residues of methyl alcohol, sand and dust, which can ruin the leather. Then wipe the furniture with boiled water to remove any remaining soap. When the skin is completely dry, use a soft cloth with a few drops of castor oil. Use no more than 6-8 drops per square meter of skin. Instead of a non-alkaline soap solution, you can also use any passed the tests leather cleaner following the directions on the package. NEVER spray product supplied as a neutral gas propellant aerosol directly onto the skin. Apply the foam to a damp sponge and spread it over the area to be cleaned. After this, you can treat the surface with a product that gives the leather moisture- and dirt-repellent properties. One treatment every six months provides good protection. Before use, read and follow the directions on the aerosol container.
If it is impossible to remove any contaminants on the skin, do not try to remove them using physical friction or cleaning agents! In this case, you need to contact specialized organizations!
Any specialized leather care products should be tested on the upholstery leather sample included with the sofa.
Well-known companies selling cleaning products, repair and restoration of leather are Leatherdoctor, Leathermaster, le-tech.ru, Lederzentrum.
Upon contact with low-quality textiles the color of natural leather is possible, as well as the presence of metal inserts in clothing (zippers, rivets, etc.) can also lead to damage to upholstery materials.
The effect of negative temperature on the skin.
After transporting the leather at low temperatures, when it arrives at the warehouse, it is necessary to keep the leather at room temperature to prevent damage to the facial layer, since the leather contains a natural amount of moisture.
If the Buyer decides to ship and transport leather goods at low temperatures, we recommend using a thermal truck for transportation purposes, which ensures a positive temperature inside the body (trailer) throughout the entire time of transportation of the goods. If vehicles that do not meet these recommendations are used to transport leather goods under the specified weather conditions, the use of leather goods after transportation is possible only after 48 hours of continuous storage of the leather goods in packaged form at a temperature of 15-25 C and a relative humidity of 50-80%.
Please note that when transporting leather goods at temperatures atmospheric air from -20C and below, the quality of such goods may deteriorate during transportation and subsequent use in production.
TERMINOLOGY.
Aniline leather- leather dyed with organic dyes with minimal technological processing.
Aniline dyeing is the process of soaking leather in transparent aniline dyes that color the leather or give it a specific shade without hiding its natural marks or character traits facial skin. Over the entire surface, the skin is covered with a non-pigmented membrane.
Aniline leather is the highest quality of all leathers. It is characterized by marks caused by nature, such as scars and different color shades. It is this type of leather that is more sensitive and prone to patination (acquiring an antique look) during use.
Semi-aniline and aniline-plus leathers (SEMI-ANILINE LEATHER).
These terms denote an additional step in addition to aniline dyeing. A layer of maximum dispersed pigments and dyes is applied to the surface of leather dyed with aniline dyes. By dyeing the leathers all over before the final coating, a very uniform color can be achieved by only adding a thin layer of finishing without making the leather tougher. Natural grain, low pigment content. Advantages: compared to CORRECTED GRAIN LEATHER they are warmer, easily adapt to body temperature, “breathable” since the pores are not closed.
Leather with corrected facial surface (CORRECTED GRAIN LEATHER).
This is skin with a fully corrected face. The leather undergoes very careful processing: all irregularities are covered with a special putty, dried, then sanded, filled with pigment and sanded again. As a result, the surface is flat and smooth, almost flawless.
Next, the surface of the skin is treated with a polymer coating that protects it from moisture and pollution. Finally, embossing is applied to the smooth surface of the leather using rollers. High performance properties.
Automotive leather collections -
Technical characteristics of leathers with corrected facial surface (pigmented) leathers.
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Raw material: USA/SA/EURO Average size: from 3.4 / 4.8 m2 Description: the classic corrected grain leather |
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PROPERTY |
TEST METHOD |
REQUIREMENT |
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2. Tensile strength |
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3. Elongation at break |
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4. Tear strength |
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5. Flexing endurance (after 20,000 flex) |
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6. Color fastness to artificial light (Xenotest) 72 hours |
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7. Color fastness to rubbing N° 500 dry rubs |
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8.Fire resistance |
Autoextinguishing without flame propagation |
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CHEMICAL ANALYSIS |
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PROPERTY |
REQUIREMENT |
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Chrome contents as Cr2O3) |
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Solubility in dichloromethane (Fats and other solvents) |
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Ph of aqueous extracts |
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Split leather (COW SPLIT LEATHER).
The bottom layer of leather has no natural grain and can be smooth or embossed. Made from the skins of cows and bulls.
P.U. LEATHER (BYCAST)
The bottom layer of leather is polyurethane coated, smooth or embossed.
Split leather, covered with a special polyurethane film and lightly stamped to resemble a natural face. The film coating hides the main possible defects on the skin, which is important when cutting leather and has high protective properties, including passing the “cigarette” test. It is better to use this leather on furniture models with straight shapes, since BY CUST does not drape well.
PULL-UP LEATHER.
Pull-up - articles obtained by applying special fats and oils to the surface of a polished crust. As a rule, the color of the coating mixture is darker than the background color of the crust. The specificity of this article is that in places of bending or tension, the leather changes color. The most common option on the market is pull-up Brown, on beige or yellow crust, with a greasy or waxy fingerboard, more than 1.4 mm thick. The main use is for men's boots.
Layers of skin
After initial processing, the leather has a thickness of 3-4 mm and can be used:
- either completely
- or can be cut horizontally into several layers (sections) - Full Grain Leather, Top Grain Leather, Genuine Leather
Full Grain
Skin with full structure, i.e. skins with a preserved natural face, on its surface the natural marks of the animal acquired during its life are preserved. Healed scratches, insect bites, veins, age folds - all this makes up the distinctive properties and charm. The upper “living” layer of skin is about 2 mm thick, the part of the skin to the depth of which the pores extend. One of the most valuable and expensive
layers of skin. This cut of leather has, with appropriate processing, excellent heat and moisture exchange characteristics, as well
high resistance to mechanical damage (scratches), color fastness, and also does not stretch much (the fibers are vertical). The staining time for this section is from 12 to 14 days.
Due to the fact that the pores pass through the entire thickness of this section, this skin is dyed to its entire depth (dye molecules penetrate the walls of the pores to the entire thickness of the layer).
Top Grain
Skins with a preserved natural face with less pronounced natural marks of the animal. This is also a “living” layer of skin, which is obtained when the top 1.5 mm of skin is cut off, it is strong, durable. It has increased operational resistance to mechanical, physical and chemical influences. This leather is one and a half times thinner than Full Grain leather, so it stretches better and has a very pleasant, soft “warm” surface. The dyeing time for this cut is 6-7 days. The most common layer in the manufacture of furniture, automobile, and haberdashery leathers.
Genuine Leather
When the Top Grain is cut off, a portion of the pore (approximately one third) remains in the skin. This part + the “dead” part
layer" that does not contain pores is called Genuine Leather. This is not yet a completely “dead layer” of skin, which
practically does not breathe, but it is not a 100% “living” layer either. The thickness of this layer is 1.2-1.5 mm, so the pores are only halfway through.
Accordingly, the dye and processing agents penetrate 50% of the thickness of this layer. Due to the fact that the pores do not pass through
full thickness, this leather has less stretch than Top Grain, but it is also tougher. The staining time for this section is 6-7 days. The surface is smooth or rough (reminiscent of suede). Used in the production of haberdashery leather and furniture leather.
Buffalo leather-in terms of its main characteristics, it is very close to bull, but the skins have an even larger size and an interesting “harvested” texture. Unfortunately, this skin type is not very common in Russia.
Bychina— its thickness, unlike calfskin, is 2.5-5 mm, and the size of the skins can exceed 2.5 m2. Traditionally it is called “saddlery”. Initially, it was used for the production of saddles, harnesses and other elements of harness. Currently, bull meat is used, as a rule, to make denim belts, ethnic-style bags, trunks and backpacks. This type of leather is better suited for manual and mechanical embossing than others. Due to the thickness and strength of the leather, products made from it can last almost forever.
Velours(French velours - velvet, from Latin villosus - hairy, shaggy) - leather made from pork, less often sheep skins, chrome-tanned with the front surface processed by grinding. This leather is tucked under the suede on the reverse side. This material can be equally soft and thin, or hard and thick, it all depends on the processing technology. Used for making shoe uppers, clothing and leather goods.
Collar (shoulder, neck)- a section of skin located between the head part and the saddle cloth.
Outgrowth— the skin of a calf that has switched to plant food and changes its primary hair during the process of molting. The quality of the leather is worse than that of the felt, the weave of the fibers is weaker. The finished leather is smooth, thick, with a beautiful measure, but not as full as opoek. Shoe uppers and leather goods are made from it.
Smooth skin— made from the highest quality raw materials, not polished. Only the fur is removed. The pores of the skin remain in their natural state: the skin “breathes” and, at the same time, the service life of the product increases. Products made from this type of leather are more wear-resistant. During wear, a natural “patina” appears on the surface of the product and it becomes more beautiful every year. The highest quality furniture and shoes are made from smooth leather.
Chamois leather— fat-tanned leather (i.e., raw hides that have been subjected to preliminary preparation. During tanning, they are impregnated with fats). Used for the manufacture of shoes, gloves, haberdashery, outerwear, jackets, skirts, and also as a filtering and polishing material. High-quality shoe suede is obtained from the skins of deer calf, outgrowth and Russian short-tailed sheep, technical - from the sheepskins of Russian long-tailed sheep, rubbing - from the skins of adult deer, Russian sheepskin. Suede has high ductility and porosity, which makes it highly breathable. Suede is particularly soft, which it retains not only after soaking in water, but also after washing in soapy water, which is why Suede is also called “washable leather”. This material is less wear-resistant than smooth leather and requires careful care.
Laika (kid)- aluminum-tanned leather made from the skins of lambs and kids.
Since ancient times, the production of wood has been developed in France, from where it was transferred first to Germany and then to other European countries. France still holds the first place in the production of aluminum, in addition, now this production has received significant development in Germany and Austria.
In Russia, L. production is limited in size. L., used almost exclusively for gloves, must be strong and stretchable, while at the same time soft, and the front side must be white, clean and shiny. The surface of the measure should be smooth, without wrinkles.
Patent leather or leather with a glossy surface (patent leather, enamelled leather). This leather processing process was developed by Newark, New Jersey, which was based on an invention by Seth Boyden (1818). This effect is achieved by painting skins in different colors and applying thin synthetic films to their surfaces under the influence of high temperatures. Thanks to modern technologies this type processing is not inferior to traditional ones either in strength or durability.
Mereya (grain)- a pattern on the front surface of dressed leather. There are natural (based on belonging to a specific animal species) and artificial measures (applied by embossing).
Aniline leather (Nappa) This is the name for soft and elastic natural leather, in addition to which the area of its application is indicated, for example, aniline shoe leather, for sewing outerwear, furniture, automobile leather, etc. Today, the term nappa leather does not mean leather of a certain tanning and origin.
Nubuck— fine-haired chrome-tanned leather with the front surface sanded with fine-grained abrasive materials (for example, sand).
It is used for the manufacture of haberdashery, parts of shoe uppers and upholstery of upholstered furniture.
Most often, it is even less protected from dirt and greasing than suede. Nubuck requires careful attention, especially in the first month of wearing. Nubuck, like a sponge, absorbs any moisture and it will be good if you are especially careful during this period. Later it goes away. Remember that light-colored nubuck items darken over time, and dark-colored items become lighter. Nubuck is durable and wear-resistant, with proper care.
There are: natural nubuck, artificial nubuck, nubuck-oil.
Natural nubuck made from genuine leather. It has a weak pile on the front surface, which gives the skin a good appearance - it becomes velvety. Nubuck leather is made of genuine leather and has good breathability. The disadvantages of this leather include low wear resistance and the need for product care. Products made from natural nubuck must be cleaned with special products.
Artificial nubuck or synthetic is much cheaper than nubuck made from genuine leather. This is multi-layered polymer material, which has a velvety structure and is similar in appearance to natural nubuck. Synthetic nubuck, unlike natural nubuck, does not absorb water and has higher wear resistance.
Nubuck-oil- This is nubuck, which was protected from moisture during the production process by treating it with fat impregnation. Nubuck is soft and velvety to the touch, while oil nubuck is damp to the touch and heavier than regular nubuck. It is more wear-resistant and unpretentious than regular nubuck.
Opoek- the skin of a young suckling calf still living on its mother's milk. The most valuable leather. The fibers are thin, elastic, dense weave. The hair of a calf is thicker, finer and more beautiful than that of an adult animal. Calf leather turns out soft, full, with a beautiful grain.
Deerskin- leather, in the process of tanning, which uses fat extracted from animal brains or other types of fats. The end result is an elastic suede-like material, usually heavily smoked, which prevents cell decomposition. This type of leather is commonly used to make briefcases and wallets.
Belt leather- smooth leather, which was originally used for the production of driving pulley belts. This type of leather is often used to make briefcases and wallets. It is quite thick, hard and smooth to the touch. Belt leather is the only type of leather used to make luxury products that can maintain its shape without the need for a frame. This material is heavier than smooth leather.
Split(split leather, split) - part of the skin (skin) obtained after splitting. There are front and melon splits. Shoe and furniture leather is made from thick and dense split grain of cattle by applying artificial measure and split velor for the production of clothing. Split leather velor is made from split pig skins for shoe production.
Morocco(goatskin, maroquin leather, saffian leather) - thin, soft leather different colors, produced by vegetable tanning, usually from goat skins, less often - the skins of sheep, calves and foals. Used mainly for the upper of national shoes. The secret of its production has been known in Russia since the 12th century. Currently not produced.
Cheprak(butt) - heavy, dense, thick leather produced by fat tanning from cattle hides taken from the back of the animal.
Shagreen(shagreen leather, shagreen, French chagrin) - a rough and porous rough type of untanned leather, made from the dorsal part of the skins of horses or kulans and usually dyed green. “Shagreen” these days is usually made from goat skins, sheep skins, as well as the skin of sharks and rays.
Chevrette(sheep skin, sheep leather) - dense, elastic leather made from sheep skins by chrome tanning. Used for shoe uppers and haberdashery. According to the pattern of the measure, it looks like a chevro.
Kid(glazed kid leather, chevreaux, goat leather) - soft, dense, durable leather, up to 60 dm2, made by chrome tanning from goat skins. On the surface it has a peculiar pattern in the form of small wrinkles. Used for shoe uppers.
Sanded leather and embossed leather— The fact is that skins often have many natural defects. Scratches from bushes and branches also remain on the skins; insects can bite through them. A hole is formed that no longer closes. These defects are removed during the production process by grinding, then some kind of coating is applied to make the surface smooth. Sanded leather must be dyed. Thanks to sanding, the well-known velor is obtained.
If there are still defects after grinding, embossing is applied. Large plates are used to press heated leather. By pressing, you can get a smooth surface and with a pattern (for example, dust-like - very small, or large, checkered - depending on the purpose of the skin).
Shora- dense, thick leather, produced by fat tanning from the skins of cattle, is more plastic than saddle cloth.
Yuft— (juff, Russian leather) thick leather produced by combined tanning from the skins of cattle, horse and pork skins taken from the belly of the animal, with a high content of fattening substances. Significantly softer and more flexible than saddle cloth or blinders. Used for shoe uppers.
Yalovka- cow leather. The skins of females are usually more valuable than those of males. The skin turns out sleeker, more elastic and firmer, the front side is smoother and more beautiful. Yalovka is suitable for making shoe uppers, soles, heels, welts, lining soles and light straps.
Cut out genuine leather.
The cutter examines the leather and notes any imperfections. Hangs the leather on a bracket at the workplace: from above - best quality and thicker skins, and underneath them are of poorer quality and thinner. Colored leathers are hung so that there is a gradual transition from darker to lighter shades.
Fish and whole skins of a small area (except chevro) should be cut from the edge, and whole skins of a large area and half-skin should be cut from the rump. Leathers with a large crowded defect are cut out of the defect, observing the chosen system for placing parts over the area.
The critical parts on the saddle cloth are placed so that an approximately straight line is formed to the floors and collars to proceed to cutting the leather into less critical parts.
Small-area leathers (chevro, chrome-tanned pork, etc.) and semi-leathers are painted using a symmetrical laying system on both sides of the spine line. This system ensures the same thickness, ductility and density of the parts of each pair of upper blanks.
Affected areas of the skin should be avoided when cutting. If minor defects are allowed in some places of critical parts or on less critical parts, then such defects do not need to be avoided.
The models should be laid as closely as possible to each other and so that the direction of least ductility of the parts runs along the footprint of the shoe. Details on the leather saddle can be laid both longitudinally and transversely, as well as at an angle of 55-60 degrees. to the ridge line. When cutting tanned leathers, you should not lay the parts in the longitudinal direction to avoid uneven thickness.
Simultaneous external parts of the upper in a pair of shoes must be the same in size, thickness, density and have an even, uniform and durable color and uniform measure.
The details of the top and lining, depending on their purpose, should be cut out from certain zones and topographic areas of the skin in accordance with state standards and technical conditions. Leather parts for the upper and lining of shoes are cut using the through-cutting method, with the entire area of leather being cut from start to finish by one worker. Leathers of the best quality can be cut without adhering to the principle of complete completeness, but taking into account the most appropriate use of topographical areas: the missing parts are cut out of individual leathers to complete the batch during the shift.
Details of the auxiliary cut cannot be cut out at the expense of the main one.
Leather for shoe uppers usually cut into parts that make up the kit. To ensure that the use of the saddle area does not deteriorate, sets of parts for several types of shoes are cut out in relationships that ensure the rational use of all topographic areas of the leather.
In the shoe industry a selective cutting method is used, in which first one worker (the main one) cuts out the most critical parts or individual sets of parts (for example, a cut for boots, sole parts made of hard leather), and then another worker cuts out less critical parts or sets of parts from the remaining part of the leather (for example, insoles, cut for boots or low shoes, auxiliary parts).
Cutting furniture and automobiles leather is similar to the process of cutting shoe leather. The difference is that for furniture cutting, whole cattle skins with a larger area are used.
Brief description of skin types
Aniline (natural)
This leather has a surface dyed with transparent dyes. This transparency makes it similar to painted wood. Indeed, the grain remains natural and clearly visible. If aniline leather has defects, these are like natural marks, which means that each skin is one of a kind. Such skin has minimal protection of the surface layer, that is, it is the most sensitive when used.
In order for the skin to maintain its natural beauty, daily care is absolutely necessary - cleaning and protection from the very first day.
CHARACTERISTICS
- natural look;
- pleasant to the touch;
- natural grain and marks;
- extremely comfortable and breathable.
Semi-aniline
This skin is covered with a slightly pigmented layer, making its color more even and hiding its minor defects. Transparent and shiny colors are sprayed onto the skin from above, thereby recreating its natural color. This leather also has a very weak protective layer, and therefore the use of Leather Protector is recommended.
CHARACTERISTICS
- natural grained surface;
- pleasant to look and feel;
- more resistant to light;
- more practical than aniline;
- “breathes easily.”
Pigmented leather
Pigmentation is the most widely used leather finishing technology, which consists of creating a uniform surface based on pigments and resin, onto which a protective coating is applied. Such skin can be recognized by its dense, uniform color. It is ideal for everyday leather items such as furniture or car seats, especially when you let your children ride on them without worrying about them.
With the help of FENICE products, things made from this leather can easily maintain their appearance. If necessary, the color of these items is completely restored.
CHARACTERISTICS
- deep color;
- more resistant to light;
- good masking of defects;
- easy to care for.
Nubuck leather
This leather is essentially an aniline dyed leather that has been sand polished to give it a fine hairy effect. This skin has an incomparable look and sensuality. It is very good for things that are not everyday items.
When caring for nubuck, it is important from the very beginning to organize its daily protection alternately with regular cleaning. The FENICE company produces special products designed for nubuck care and everyday protection. It is very important that such skin is protected by products created exclusively for these purposes.
CHARACTERISTICS
- velvet effect in appearance and touch;
- very comfortable;
- soft and airy to the touch.
PullUp leather
Fashion comes and goes, but waxy, oily skins are always with us. Everyone is familiar with the term "pull up", which was originally used to describe the effect inherent in the leather known as "Timberland", after a famous shoemaker made it famous. Leather of this type becomes lighter after stretching and bending it in various ways, in general, after “pull up” operations.
CHARACTERISTICS
- sensual, pleasant to the touch;
- stylish;
- has a unique, striking appearance.
Bycast leather
This type of leather represents a completely different type of treatment and enhancement of the quality of the leather (usually split or heavily sanded leather) while maintaining the same thickness and softness. The processing method consists of creating a finishing film overlaid on a continuous release paper backing. An adhesive is first applied to the film, after which it is pressed to the skin. Then the paper film backing is removed, and the leather surface appears treated perfectly evenly and evenly.
Often, when Bycast leather is stretched, its color becomes lighter, and when released, it returns to its original thickness. This type of skin is sometimes recognized based on this feature.
CHARACTERISTICS
- durable;
- uniformly colored appearance.
Natural marks
Keep in mind that not all leather imperfections require removal or repair because some leathers have natural marks and imperfections, including:
- traces of a burnt brand,
- color changes,
- litter marks,
- healed scars and scars,
- insect bite marks,
- natural wrinkles,
- pores.
However, using products produced by the FENICE company, the following defects can be removed from the surface of the skin:
- various contaminants,
- stains from ballpoint pens, felt-tip pens and markers,
- dry, hard or otherwise defective mechanical areas,
- scuffs and scratches,
- grease stains - from sweat on human skin, animals,
- mold stains,
- food stains,
- cracking;
- areas with discoloration, wear
Instructions for solving problems associated with this type of repair are given on subsequent pages of this manual, but first determine your leather type.
