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I bring to your attention a small master class on sewing a dress with bare shoulders.
IN previous article We modeled the basic design of the dress and came up with a dress pattern with open shoulders and raised seams. Now we will try our pattern in practice and see what we can come up with.
Fabric selection
Since our future dress is of an adjacent style, we will approach the choice of fabric based on this criterion. For tight-fitting clothing, more elastic ones are used. materials, therefore, thick knitted fabrics, as well as suit and dress stretch fabrics, are suitable for our dress. I chose stretch crepe for sewing. Fabric consumption will be from 1.5 m.
A lining for a dress of this style is required if the main fabric is sufficiently transparent, and the lining fabric must also be elastic. The main fabric I chose was a little sheer, so I decided to use this stretch lining to match the main fabric. The lining consumption will be 1-1.5 m.
We will also need a hidden zipper measuring 40cm, matching threads and contrasting and working tools.
Cutting fabric
Before cutting the fabric, if necessary, we will carry out decatification. Then we fold our fabric in two layers, right side inward, align the edges and apply the paper parts of the shelf and back. We apply the central part of the shelf with the middle line to the fold line of the fabric, lay out the remaining patterns, observing the direction of the grain thread, which should run along the parts. Seam allowances for all cuts are 1 cm, along the bottom line - 3-4 cm, and along the middle line of the back - 1.5 cm. If you did not create a facing for processing the cut on paper patterns, then do not forget to add allowances for facing 4-6 cm wide along the sections of the reliefs for the required length of the cut.
In the same way, we cut out the details of the sleeve and facing with allowances of 1 cm along all cuts, along the bottom line of the sleeve the allowances will be 3-4 cm.
As a result, we should get:
three shelf parts,
four back parts,
two sleeves
and one facing detail.
For the lining, we cut out only the parts of the back and front, observing the direction of the lobar and adding 1 cm to the allowances along all cuts, and 3-4 cm along the bottom line. In this case, there is no need to add allowances for facing the cut.
We transfer control lines to all parts using copy stitches.
Let's move on to sewing the product
We sweep the details of the shelf and back along the relief and side seams.
We sew the parts according to the outline,
Press the seams and press the allowances. In a dress unlined seam allowances must be sewn.
This is what we got.
Now we sweep the back parts along the middle line, iron the allowances and baste the hidden zipper.
We sew the zipper and stitch the seam under the zipper. (How to sew a hidden zipper, see this article).
Sleeve processing
We sweep the sleeves along the side sections,
Stitch and iron the seams edgewise.
We overcast the seam allowances and iron them to the front side.
Our sleeves do not have an upper edge, and therefore there is no need to fit them, you just need to sew them into the armhole.
Having connected the sleeves to the product, it is necessary to try it on and clarify the overall fit of the upper cut of the dress.
Then we sew in the sleeves and iron the seams on the edge. If the product does not have a lining, then we overcast the allowances and iron them on the side of the sleeve; along the lower edge we leave allowances for the edge.
Lining processing
We sweep away the lining parts along the side and relief cuts,
Stitch and iron the seam allowances.
Now we will connect the lining with the facing, chipping the part along the upper cut, and mark the line of the lower edge of the facing on the lining.
We break off the facing, and on the lining we draw a new upper cut, which extends 2 cm higher from the marked line.
Cut the lining along the new top cut line.
We connect the facing to the lining again, but now we will place the parts with right sides facing each other and baste the lower edge of the facing to the new upper edge of the lining.
We sew the facing,
Press the seams and press the seam allowances to the lining side.
This is what we got.
Neck treatment
On the front side of the product, we will apply the facing part, with the front side inward, match the lines of the middle of the parts and sweep the parts along the upper cut.
We sew down the details. In the area of the corner of the neckline, when stitching the parts, it is necessary to make one horizontal stitch, so that when turning the facing to the wrong side of the product, the fabric will not bristle in this corner.
Iron the seams.
Now let's stitch from the facing side, placing the product and facing on opposite sides of the stitching seam so that the allowances are under the facing. We lay the line at a distance of 1mm from the seam chip.
We turn the facing to the wrong side of the product (if necessary, the allowance in the corner of the neck can be notched). Iron the seam, forming a small edge measuring 1-2mm.
This is what we got.
Connecting the lining to the product at the fastener area
Let's match all the relief and side seams of the lining and our dress and pin them. On the details of the back of the lining, at the middle seam allowance, mark a line for sewing the zipper.
Next, remove all the pins, turn the lining inside out and fold it with the product, right sides inward. Let's align the back parts and match the marked line with the zipper tape. We sweep away the details along the entire length of the zipper tape.
Now we sew the lining to the zipper braid using a special foot, laying a line at a distance of 1-2mm from the zipper teeth.
Iron the seams.
We cut out the allowances in the corners and turn the lining to the wrong side of the dress. So, we connected the lining to the product at the fastener area, while the zipper dog moves easily, since the connecting stitch runs at a distance from the zipper teeth.
Now we will connect the parts of the back of the lining under the zipper, stitching the parts along the middle line.
Press the seam and press the seam allowances.
Processing the hemline
On the wrong side of the dress, fold the seam allowances along the hem line and press. Turn the hem over and cut off the side seam allowances and relief seams on the hem and just above the hem line - 0.5 cm. We will adjust the allowances of the hem line again and press them, and then we will sweep the hem.
Now let's process the corners on the parts from the cut side. On the hem and facing of the cut we mark the common point of intersection.
We open the corner and connect the resulting points with a straight line, which must pass through the top of the corner.
We fold the sides of the corner with the right sides inward, bending the part at the point of the apex of the corner, and sweep the sides of the corner along the intended line.
Stachem,
iron the seam, cut off the excess fabric, leaving a 1cm allowance.
We cut out the allowances in the corner and press the allowances.
With the onset of the summer season, the entire female half of humanity gladly exposes their necks and shoulders, exposing them to the gentle sun. Many styles of blouses and dresses have been invented that expose the shoulders. Now the fashion of the 70-80s is returning, when sundresses and dresses were worn either without harnesses at all, or with very thin ropes. The only thing that distinguishes the current fashion from the past is the presence of one or more flounces.
The off-shoulder dress with ruffles looks stunning on any figure. It may be different lengths- from very short beach to long evening. The number of frills varies. Visually, the frill located on top significantly enlarges the breasts. It’s very easy to choose a model that suits your shape and color. It’s even easier to sew a dress with bare shoulders and frills using your own pattern.
Simple pattern
In order to sew such a dress, you need to have minimal experience. First you need to measure the length of the future dress and the volume of the chest. Give 3 cm seam allowance and 15 cm allowance on each side and prepare two rectangular pieces of fabric. We overcast each rectangle around the perimeter and sew along the sides to the armholes. The result was a straight-shaped “pipe”.
The next step will be cutting out the frill. To do this, measure the volume of the shoulders, add 3 cm on each side to the seams and multiply the size by two, by the gathering of the material. We attach a frill to the dress itself. The result is the letter T. If you have sewing machine There is a foot for assembling the shuttlecock, then sew once along the edge of the material. If such a function is not available, then do not worry. You just have to manually gather and baste to the width of the dress. The parts are sewn together as follows.
The rectangle of the dress is right side up, and the frill is wrong side out. Then the frill is lowered down and (retreating 1-1.5 cm along the front side) is sewn with a simple seam, but not completely. Leave an inlet hole for the elastic. So, the summer dress with open shoulders and flounce is ready. All that remains is to add the belt. It can be sewn separately from the same material or made in the form of a second elastic band inserted inside at waist level. A wide belt with embroidery and beads or a narrow leather strap will look beautiful. It depends on your creative ideas.
Dress with multiple elastic bands
The next style of dress with open shoulders and flounces differs from the previous one in several elastic bands on the top and on the waist. The only difficulty for beginning seamstresses will be those available in this one. Let's start sewing in the same way as before. Armholes for the sleeves are cut out on the rectangle using regular patterns. Multi-layer elastic is made by sewing several parallel seams with the same distance between them. Leave the edge of the frill to the desired length.
To complete the look, add a frill to the sleeves by inserting one elastic band around the circumference of the arm, but not too tightly. You can also decorate the bottom of the dress with frills, from one to three. The lace details look beautiful on them.
High waist dress
A dress with open shoulders and flounces, which has a high waist and a bodice decorated with elastic bands, looks very gentle and feminine. The dress widens towards the bottom edge, adding lightness to the gait. This style hides a small tummy and can be worn by women in interesting position. In the first months of pregnancy, the growing belly will not be visible at all.
There is nothing complicated in sewing such a model. The bodice of the dress is stitched along the entire length with stripes with an internal insert of material. We insert from 6 to 10 elastic bands, depending on the volume of the chest. On the bottom of the dress we sew a frill of 10 to 15 cm, with light tucks that are barely visible. The frill at the top covers the bodice completely.
Evening dress with darts
A lace translucent dress with open shoulders and flounces looks very gentle and elegant. Thanks to the darts on the chest and waist, it completely fits and follows the contours of the body.
This style is suitable for slender girls. If you have small breasts, but at the same time a flat stomach and slender legs, then this option was created just for her. To sew such a dress, with open shoulders and flounces, take the usual pattern, as for a narrow dress with darts on the chest and waist.
The top flounce covers the chest and is not very gathered. The frill at the bottom is flared. You can make it uniform along the entire length; the option, as in the photo, looks interesting - the length is shorter in front and behind, and longer on the sides. A belt is not needed for this type of dress.
Tight dress with harnesses
The next version of the summer dress looks very beautiful. It is narrow, classic type. The length can be different, as desired. The material chosen for this model is dense. It's either denim or linen. If you sew it from light fabric, the frill may hang from the shoulders and become deformed. It will look sloppy. The straps are also not narrow, but about 3 cm. At the back, on the back, there is a zipper of the same color.
The top frill is tapered and sewn only on the front and back of the dress. The bottom is decorated with fringe, made by stretching several layers of threads of material. You can come up with your own version of the border. This can be a bright edging, repeated on both the frill and the straps. The embroidery element on the frill will look beautiful.
Dress with seam waist
To sew a dress, you need to cut it correctly. The upper part of the dress is sewn with long straight undercuts. A wide skirt is cut out separately and gathered at the waist using three counter pleats at the front and back.
The length of the skirt is short, 10-15 cm above the knees. The frill on the shoulders is flared, sewn from two layers of material for density. Sewn to the bodice of the dress only at the front and back. The zipper is located on the back of the dress and is not sewn into the frill. The belt is not designed for this model.
The most varied fabrics are used: plain and colored, thin and dense, natural and with the addition of synthetics. This style is suitable for girls both slender and tall, and short, with small breasts. The small belly will be hidden behind a tight seam due to the cut-off waist. You can sew a dress with open shoulders with a flounce yourself, or you can do it in any studio.
Latest fashion trends
Nowadays it is very fashionable to wear shirt dresses. The style is reminiscent of a men's dress shirt: a turn-down collar, a placket and small buttons along the entire length of the dress. Typically, this style involves wide tailoring, with dropped shoulders, as if larger. The material used is natural, cotton or cambric. This makes the dress very light, loose, perfect for hot summer weather.
You can often see famous film and television stars wearing shirt dresses. They are the most different styles. Flared at the bottom, fitted and straight, with or without a belt. With pockets, a placket and a belt, they look strict. Suitable for work uniforms or Everyday life. Lightweight and flared models can be worn for a walk to the sea. Even shirt dress models with cut-out bare shoulders have been invented. Let's consider this option.
Shirt dress with flounce and open shoulders
The model of a shirt dress, which is flared at the bottom and decorated with several rows of beautifully gathered frills, looks elegant and airy. Having put on such a dress, you immediately want to dance to the rhythm of sambo, imagining yourself as a participant in the carnival in Rio de Janeiro. For a dance party, the choice of such a dress is the most successful. Such dresses are very fashionable this season, so they are expensive. If you want to save money, but your husband has shirts in his closet, then start creating.
To do this, you just need to cut off the armholes of the sleeves, stitching the edges on a sewing machine, and select the material for the ruffles. You can make just one, sewing it at chest level. Ruffles can be a different color, such as stripes or bright colors.
A modern girl should have several dresses for the summer season for different occasions. In the summer heat, you want to wear it with more bare shoulders. It is advisable to choose natural fabrics for dresses. It can be cotton, satin, cambric, linen, silk. The choice is quite large. You can buy dresses, but sewing a summer dress with a flounce and open shoulders using a pattern is absolutely easy. It is enough to have the Internet, sewing machine, buy fabric and accessories.
The presented styles of summer dresses are not particularly difficult to sew, and if you have at least basic sewing skills with your own hands, then you will cope with the task perfectly. Modeling a dress with open shoulders and a flounce is a fascinating activity, since the styles can be complemented using your imagination.
Create for your own pleasure and delight others with beautiful, elegant summer dresses! Good luck!
Summer dresses that leave the shoulders open make it possible to get “maximum vitamin D” and an even tan. They are appropriate not only on the beach or on hot days. Among the current catwalk trends, one of the leading places is occupied by the low, strictly horizontal line of the top of the dress, leaving the shoulders and collarbones open. Designers offer a variety of models - they sew in voluminous or narrow sleeves, make the hem line asymmetrical, emphasize the waist or, conversely, hide it behind a loose cut.
Depending on the decor and lines of the waist and skirt, clothes can be bold, tenderly romantic or bohemian and relaxed. Outfits in the spirit of the Russian nobility are popular - with an accentuated waist, a floor-length skirt and smoothly designed sleeves. Evening Dress based on the “sheath” or “godet” style, complemented by a low neckline, turns its owner into a luxurious conqueror of a social event. An interesting loose-fitting model is designed on the basis men's shirts- the fantasies of masters have no boundaries.
apairandasparediy.com
Depending on your preferences, you can choose one of the most current options.
- A-line mini with a wide flounce and an elastic band along the top line. You need to make sure that the elastic strip inserted into the neckline does not put pressure on your shoulders.
- Model with thin shoulder straps. For curvaceous who need additional support.
- Long dresses made of flowing thin fabric. The style looks beautiful on chintz and chiffon (only a small increase is needed for a loose style).
- Models that diverge towards the bottom, hiding imperfections in the legs, a large belly or “heavy” hips. The transverse neckline and open shoulders attract attention.
- A combination of a defined waist and a circle skirt. A beautiful and feminine option for summer days; fabrics with a natural base are well suited for it - linen, cotton, staple.
- Shirt dresses are a bold and daring silhouette and trendy design.
Most styles are easy to sew and open up space for imaginative decoration and use of accessories. Outfits with a transverse low neckline are suitable for owners with sharp, “sculpted” and sloping, feminine shoulders. They visually lengthen the neck, correct the proportions of the upper body and hide the volume on the hips. The model with open shoulders and elastic is suitable for summer walks in the park, and with decorative sleeves and a corset bodice - for a gala evening.
cosmo.com.ua
Models that are sewn without patterns
For beginner craftsmen, simple models are suitable, the manufacture of which does not require spending time on a pattern. Beautiful and functional, the off-the-shoulder, ruffled dress is constructed from four pieces of fabric and elastic for the top line.
Progress
- Draw two rectangles directly on the fabric for the front and back sides - the width is determined by the circumference of the hip, the length by the size of the finished item.
- Cut and sew along the sides of the dress elements, leaving about 20 cm unfastened at the top.
- Connect the sections of the flounce strip and fasten them.
- Sew the flounce and the product together, connecting the edges from one armhole to the other.
- Hem the top - you need to leave a gap of a couple of centimeters for the drawstring.
Before sewing an open-shoulder dress using this model, you need to finish the side seams and edges with a single stitch (French seam). The armholes are connected to the sleeves, then the facing is secured to the top line, and at the last stage of work, an elastic band is threaded into the drawstring, fixing its edges.
An unusual beach dress can be sewn from an ordinary men's shirt. It is also held on by an elastic band, and the top of the product must be cut off so that there is an allowance for the hem for the drawstring. It is sewn from the inside out - the design should be about 5 cm wide so that the elastic tape can be threaded through it freely. After decorating the top, all you have to do is shorten and trim the sleeves - and the outfit is ready.
diys.com
Models based on the base pattern
If designing from drawings is a familiar job for you, an option is to model an open outfit based on a classic base. The “original” pattern for an off-the-shoulder dress is a design diagram for the adjacent product with set-in shirt sleeves or raglan. Using ready-made drawings, be sure to adjust them to your figure, determine the allowances needed for a loose fit and select the density for the frills, if any.
For models in the fashionable “Russian” style, the sleeves are modeled on the basis of raglan. Its drawing can even be done using a simple graphic method, based on a shirt sleeve designed to your measurements. You will also need a basic drawing of the bodice. To combine it with the sleeve pattern, it is enough to measure the circumference of the arm on the widest part of the forearm (approximately along the armpit length) - for work you will need half the size.
Dresses with a cut-off Tatyanka skirt, small ruffles and sleeves are sewn on the basis of raglan and according to the patterns of the basic bodice and sleeves.
Progress
- Adjust the position of the front, back and sleeve patterns at the point along the shoulder seam - according to the figure, focusing on the raglan pattern.
- Temporarily aligning the bottom of the sleeve and the armhole, draw the outline of the raglan along the back and front towards the neckline.
- Along the resulting line, cut off the part and align it with the edging.
- Move the waist darts to the neckline or, if frequent gatherings are needed, further separate the front elements (this way the raglan can be modified into a “flashlight”).
- Determine the depth of the cross cut using an elastic band and determine the positions of the control points on the front, shoulder and sleeve.
- Mark the points on the drawing and adjust the smooth joining line of the front, sleeve and back according to them.
- Cut the diagram along the drawn line, checking the dimensions of the armhole in advance.
- Lower the waistline by 4-5 cm to form an overlap for attaching elastic in a fluffy “tatyanka”.
oda-fame.com.ua
To design a two-tiered skirt, you need two pieces of fabric: one rectangle for the required length of the part and the second about 1.5 times wider. The vertical in the drawing is divided into two components. The ratio of skirt to frill is best determined by the classic ratio of 60/40. It, especially in midi length, visually harmonizes the figure and makes it proportional.
The model can also be made in one piece. In this case, measurements are taken taking into account the length of the skirt and the overlap of the drawstring. When the bottom flares from the waist, the angle along the back and the shelf should match. Make sure that the pairing on the sides is neat and check the lines along them and the center - align the verticals with the armholes. The dress is sewn in sequence from the armhole with sleeves to the side seams on the bodice and cuts (one line). The facing is then attached to the top, and pleats are formed on the cut-off skirt and connected to the top of the product.
Bodycon dress with elastic and elbow length sleeves
pinterest.com
A spectacular model with an open shoulder line and an adjacent silhouette is sewn from elastic fabrics - for example, knitwear. For design, you need measurements of the half-circumference at the waist and chest, the length along the back to the waist and the size of the sleeve (depending on its narrowness). Patterns are formed as halves of the front and back, and to cut it out you need to fold the piece of fabric in half with the right side inward. The drawing is carefully pinned to the fabric and outlined.
Progress
- Draw contours for seam allowances - 1-1.5 centimeters from the basic outlines of the parts.
- Cut out a solid sleeve with allowances and, separately, a strip of fabric along the length of the cross-cut line for the drawstring.
- Sew the side elements, sleeve, fold the fabric for the drawstring and secure it.
- Thread the elastic band, fasten it into a ring and close the edges of the neck.
butik4brand.ru
Basic patterns of blouses, tops and shirts can be modified in a similar way, giving them a current, fresh look and adding a statement detail. You can sew thin straps to the elastic that holds the neckline at the required level, having previously cut them out from the main fabric or decorative braid, and also decorate the top with a wide strip of airy lace. If you need a more formal silhouette, you should design a pattern based on a sheath dress or a basic bodice with an adjacent sculptural silhouette.
Dresses with a cutout on the shoulders and a fitted silhouette
Models that beautifully outline the curves of the figure are made from stretchy knitwear - it does not require modeling darts or taking a long time to adjust the increase. If you like “rigid” options, made from non-elastic materials, you need to take as a basis the pattern of a classic sheath with a decorated side line and a “drawn” bodice.
Progress
- A basic rectangle is drawn and a shoulder line is drawn on it, taking into account the slope.
- Separately for the front and back, shelves are drawn and darts for the shoulders are made.
- The outlines of the armhole are drawn up.
- A dart is formed along the chest, and transferred from the shoulder to the armpit.
- The shelves at the waist and back are separated.
- A line is drawn along the thigh, and an extension and a lower line are drawn from it.
klubok.com
New cut lines are applied to the front and back parts of the basic design. On open dress The dart along the front of the skirt is not stitched, but a small fold is formed. On the bodice you also need to put gathers - they are then stitched on the top and bottom sides. The belt in the model is drawn separately and then stitched. For tops made of thin translucent fabrics, you will need a lining. It is cut out according to the same pattern as the main elements. Then the finished parts are folded with the right side inward and ground along the top cut line. You will need to sew darts along the back and make a secret lock.
Dear friends! I welcome everyone who has joined the open online project, which will take place from May 30 to June 5. All you need to participate is your desire to sew. I will publish materials about my sewing progress, waiting for your questions and additions. And photographs, of course! Together we will create a universal master class on a dress with the working title “Peasant Young Lady”
The materials in this article will be supplemented by our general developments.
So, I announce the beginning of a common project
The very first question: which model to choose? We see that they are all different both in cut and silhouette.
Cut-off at the waistline or not? WITH full skirt or straight? With or without sleeves? Frill, flounce, or – ?
Which dress model do you like best?
Additionally, we need to take into account individual body shapes and strive for a feminine hourglass silhouette.
I settled on the following model:
- There is simply a gather along the top border of the dress, the neckline itself is shallow, slightly revealing the shoulders.
- The gathering of the bodice as a whole is sparse, with the back only slightly gathered, and the front and sleeves more voluminous. The gathers at the waist are minimal, the width of the waist dart opening.
- detachable skirt of the “Tatyanka” type, two-tiered with a frill at the bottom.
- sleeves to the elbow of the “flashlight” type.
Which dress did you choose? This is important to determine now because modeling and pattern making will vary greatly depending on the style chosen.
Choosing fabric for the dress.
The most rewarding topic is the selection of material for the dress. The choice is wide and limitless: cotton and viscose staples and poplins, satins, chintz, percale, chiffons. The lucky ones choose silk (sewing happiness is in money).
I bought myself some inexpensive Chinese poplin to experiment with and was pleasantly surprised. This is my first time encountering Chinese fabric. I’m a darling and a gourmet when it comes to materials, I must admit. But I’m not disappointed: the colors are rich, the fabric doesn’t fade, the fabric is smooth, soft, and tactilely pleasant.
I can’t give general recommendations on fabric consumption. Everything will depend on your personal model and size. I had 2 meters of fabric for everything, so the task was to keep it within the yardage. You can always play with the density of the frills and the economical layout, everything is in our hands.
Modeling an off-shoulder dress
Let's look at several modeling options. Most “peasant lady” styles need to be modeled and cut using a raglan base. And making a pattern with raglan sleeves is very simple using a graphical method. You need your tried-and-true bodice base and a basic shirt sleeve pattern. We will now consider an elementary modification set-in sleeve, which is quite suitable for our purposes.
It is necessary to join the front, back and sleeve at the point of the shoulder seam, find a compromise position of all three patterns in such a way as to get as close as possible to the development of the “raglan” cut. The lower parts of the sleeves and armholes will be temporarily placed on top of each other for ease of drawing raglan lines. Look how this is done in the picture.
You need to draw raglan lines on the front and back: from the bottom of the armhole to the neckline. Then cut the patterns along the drawn line, and “attach” the cut pieces to the sleeve hem.
The raglan lines on the sleeve need to be straightened, drawn beautifully and thus get a raglan sleeve pattern. Small overlaps at the top of the collar will not hurt us, because this part of the sleeve will be cut off for open shoulders. Don't be afraid to model. This is not at all difficult, especially for our purposes.
Yes, now you can move the darts from the waistline to the neckline. Or you can spread the shelf even further (that’s what I did) so that the gathering along the chest line is thick. You can also extend the patterns along the waist line. And the sleeve can be converted into a flashlight.
We move directly to “cutting off” the top part, that is, to the most interesting part. We need to determine the depth of the cutout - it’s very convenient to do this in front of a mirror with a piece of elastic in one hand and a measuring tape in the other. Tie an elastic band around your shoulders, vividly imagine yourself as a queen in luxurious dress with open shoulders. Does the elastic fit comfortably? Doesn’t it hinder your movements and doesn’t fly off? Is the neckline immodest enough? You like? What about your husband? In this case, ask him to take three measurements: from the point of the jugular cavity (where the neckline on the pattern begins) to the elastic, from the seventh cervical vertebra to the elastic, and from the point of the base of the neck (on the side) to the position of the elastic on the arm.
My measurements are as follows: front - 9 cm, shoulder and sleeve -15 cm, back -8 cm. I mark these points on the pattern, then join the front, back and sleeve along the raglan line and draw a smooth, beautiful line. I cut the pattern along this line. When you cut, check the length of the armholes on the sleeve and the front with the back again. Correct me if anything.
All. the patterns are ready.
Dear sewing colleagues, at this stage we will all differ in tastes and preferences. And each of us will make our own dress, very personal. Each of us will determine the density of the gathers along the top and along the waistline experimentally. I will be glad to hear your experience, please share. Let's discuss this point. How are you doing?
skirt
About the skirt: I will definitely make a cut-off skirt, because I want a fluffy flowing skirt, and I want an almost fitted bodice. Therefore, I lowered the waist line by 5 centimeters so that there was a slight overlap over the elastic, and in general... I'll cut off the excess later if I don't need it.
One-piece dress option continuous at the waist: Simply measure the length of your skirt strictly from your natural waistline. From point B down, take your measurement. Please note here: you will have to lower the waistline by 3-5 cm before this operation in order to create a free overlap over the elastic band. If the dress is without elastic (drawstring), then there is no need to make an allowance of 3-5 cm from the natural waistline.
Then flare the skirt to your liking, but make sure that the flare angle on the back and front matches. The side lines must be conjugate. And check the side and middle lines along the front and back: from the armhole line they should be equal. (segments AC and A1C1).
My the skirt will be two tiers.
1st tier. – one skirt panel per fabric width (150 cm)
2nd tier - a rectangle of fabric with a coefficient of 1.5 to the width of the top tier. I like this kind of extension; I determined it for myself a long time ago through experience. Total: 150cm * 1.5 = 225 cm.
As for the length of the skirt, it’s not so simple. Your dress is up to you to decide.
I wanted a trendy midi this season. This is approximately 90 cm. I divide the length of the skirt into two parts: the overskirt and the frill. I determine the length of the frill using the method of the most favorable proportion: 60% - 40%. In all unclear cases, I resort to the “golden” design division of 60/40. A well-chosen proportion helps to visually elongate the figure, while an unsuccessful one completely kills all proportions. I don’t take risks and divide the skirt like this: 55cm / 35cm.
Even if you use ready-made patterns, then it’s still useful to understand “how it’s done.”
Off-shoulder dress pattern
Dear readers of my site. I have prepared diagrams for you, according to which you can draw a pattern for a dress with bare shoulders. It’s not difficult to understand the diagrams, the scale is simple: 1 cell = 1 centimeter. Dimensions are indicated.
But I draw your attention to the fact that when using ready-made circuits, errors are very likely. Therefore, before cutting a dress from your beautiful fabrics, make a sample. You may want to add (or reduce) the degree of freedom and density of the assemblies. I cut and sewed the dress exactly according to this pattern, and it turned out well. But we are all so different – posture, volume. And tastes.
Patterns for sizes: Bust 84-89 cm and 90-94 cm
for sizes 95-99 cm and 100-106 cm
pictures are clickable and enlarge on mobile devices
If you don't find your size, that's okay. The pattern is easy to construct according to this scheme:
All you have to do is determine the width of the pattern based on the chest circumference and increases.
How to cut and sew an off-shoulder dress
First cut out the skirt, having previously “estimated” how much fabric to leave for the bodice and sleeves. The facings will “fit” into the interpattern lunges.
Then - a shelf with a bend, a back with a bend and sleeves (unfolded pattern). Observe the direction of the grain thread, leave allowances of 1 cm for processing.
The order of assembling the dress is as follows:
- sew armholes with sleeves
- The side seams of the bodice and the sleeves are sewn together. I prefer to process thin cotton.
The principle of modeling a dress with dropped shoulders, which we will look at in this lesson, is loved by designers when creating elegant feminine models or models for special occasions. The dropped shoulder line allows you to literally “sculpt” an elegant and sophisticated silhouette that emphasizes the shoulder line, creating a luxurious look. Dresses with dropped shoulders are often made from fabrics embroidered with sequins, beads or bugles, or lace fabrics. Let's look at modeling a dress pattern with dropped shoulders using this spectacular model as an example.
Advice! Use the modeling principle presented in this article to create your own dress styles by changing the width and configuration of the straps.
Modeling a dress pattern with dropped shoulders is done according to. We suggest you use a ready-made one, which you can download completely free of charge. No sleeve pattern required.
To model a dress style with dropped shoulders, copy the back separately from the basic dress pattern and the front completely separately.
Dress back modeling
The length of the dress from the waist is about 70 cm.
Draw a horizontal armhole line to the right, mark the lower point of the armhole with the letter A. Along the armhole line from point A, put segment AB to the right = (1/4 Bust circumference minus 1/20 Bust circumference). Connect point B to the extreme point of the shoulder - point C. Construct the sleeve configuration as shown in Fig. 1. From point C, set down 5 cm (the descent of the shoulder is not constant and depends on the size and your preferences), then 8-10 cm (the width of the strap).
Along the back, determine the desired neckline depth using a measuring tape. From the neckline of the back, set 13-15 cm down and 5 cm up (the width of the strap along the back). Construct the back strap by connecting the marked points.
Cut the back pattern along the waistline, cut off the strap and cut it out separately.
Rice. 1. Modeling a dress pattern with dropped shoulders
Dress front modeling
On the front pattern, set aside a segment AB of the same length as on the back, build a sleeve configuration. From the extreme point of the shoulder, set down 5 cm, then 8-10 cm. The depth of the neckline in the middle of the front is about 15 cm. Construct the configuration of the right and left straps. Move the waist darts to the side line.
Cut the front pattern along the waistline, cut the front bodice along the styling lines. Cover the tops of the chest darts on the bodice details with paper and iron the pattern with a slightly heated iron. Transfer the details of the left and right straps onto tracing paper, minus the chest darts, and adjust the configuration of the straps using smooth lines.
From the top of the waist dart of the skirt, lower the perpendicular down to the bottom, cut the front panel of the skirt along the perpendicular into 2 parts.
Details of the cut of the back and front of the dress are shown in Fig. 2. Duplicate the outer parts of the straps with a knitted interfacing. When cutting, do not forget to add seam allowances on all sides of the parts - 1 cm, along the bottom of the product - 3 cm.
IMPORTANT! To process the armholes, cut out hemmings 4 cm wide. To do this, align the back and front along the side seam and re-cut the facings in one piece without a side seam.
Rice. 2. Details of the cut of the dress with dropped shoulders
You will find even more original dress patterns on the website of Anastasia Korfiati’s Sewing School. Subscribe to our free lessons and sew the clothes of your dreams!
