Bra. Finished pattern. Creating a pattern for a bra with widely spaced straps Pattern for a bra without cups

Admin 2012-06-01 at 9:43 am

Hello, friends. Today I am publishing three new underwire bra patterns. Design: oval cup.

On the question: to sew or not to sew a bra, the female half of the population is divided.

Some people say that there is no need to sew; there is plenty of everything in stores. There are plenty of others, but it’s hard to find one for my H or F.

Either the straps are too narrow and cut into the shoulders, then the bones break, then the cup fits, but the belt is too big and rides up.

In general, this is true. There is such a problem. So what to do? Those who know how to sew try to sew their own bras and it works.

There are only some subtleties, of course.

This is, for example, sewing in bra frames . These are the round bones at the base of the cup.

But nothing is impossible and I’ll tell you how it’s done

Where can I get the pattern? You can draw it yourself from the picture, choosing your size. Today I am publishing three more patterns for an underbust circumference of 100 cm.

My products sewn using this pattern:

The letter next to the size indicates the fullness of the cup.

But the letter cannot always accurately convey your individual dimensions. Therefore, in my drawings when constructing women's underwear, I always indicate the local measurement of the mammary gland - Gd (Horizontal arc).

This is a reference measure of the fullness of the cup. Removed with a measuring tape: horizontally measure one mammary gland from the base in front to the base on the side - through the most protruding point.

Write down the measurement Gd. On the pattern sheet, find the appropriate size for your measurements Gd. This measurement is indicated on the pattern sheet in the size column. The size of the belt is secondary - it can be easily adjusted.

So, by clicking on the picture with the left mouse button, you will enlarge it. You can also download the picture to your computer. On plain paper with a simple pencil, draw a pattern according to the dimensions of the lines on the drawing.

Drawings are given without seam allowances.

When choosing a bra pattern, several factors should be taken into account, including, first of all, the individual characteristics of the figure. Age is also important, as are the conditions under which the bra is used. This refers to its purpose and use - for work, for sports, for celebrations, etc.
The proposed bra pattern supports the breasts well and models its shape, which is important for a large bust.
Also noteworthy is the softness of the lines and simplicity of the cut.
Comfortable wearing is ensured by wide straps that do not deform the shoulder muscles, and a wide side part.

The bra cup consists of three parts - two lower and one upper.
When choosing fabric, opt for denser materials, since when sewing this model of bra, underwires are not used and also because when using thin materials, it is impossible to achieve good breast support.
Patterns are given in actual size with seam allowances(at the rate of 0.7 cm for all seams except the front; allowance for the front seam is 0.5 cm).
The patterns are suitable for women with the parameters indicated in the table below.
Pattern
SIZE
Underbust circumference
Bust
(by protruding points)
Blue line
90D
88-92
108-110
Black line
95D
93-97
113-115
The choice of material for sewing a bra is of great importance. Using the same patterns and different materials, due to the elasticity and density of the latter, you can get different bra sizes. Therefore, it is always recommended to first test the patterns on a mock-up fabric that is similar in properties to the material that you are going to use for sewing a bra. Cut, baste, try on, make adjustments if necessary, determine the length of the side parts of the bra (girth under the bust), taking into account the degree of elasticity and type of clasp, and only after that proceed to sewing from the main fabric.
For maximum support, it is advisable to cut the back (side) from elastic fabric with a high cotton content. The larger the size, the wider the back part (barrel).
Make the clasp wide, this will ensure a good fit and comfortable use of the product.
In large bra sizes, it is better to make the width of the straps 3-5 cm, since narrow straps deform the shoulder muscles and interfere with proper blood circulation in the arms, which leads to discomfort, fatigue, etc.
The bra cups are lined. As a lining, use fabrics that match the properties of the material of the top of the cup: elasticity, density, etc.
Remember that it is better to use for linen natural materials, meeting all hygienic requirements, improving the microclimate of the skin, and not causing irritation.
Lining details are cut according to the main details.
Sewing Tips:
First, we assemble the lower part of the bra cup, which consists of two parts.
Then we connect the upper and lower parts of the cup.
Sew the front seam.
The upper sections of the bra cups can be trimmed with narrow lace, openwork elastic, or edged with bias tape.
The pattern on the side of the bra is designed to use elastic fabric. To prevent this part from being too small, add a few centimeters to the length of the barrel when cutting. Finalize the girth of the bra (the length of the barrels) during the fitting, taking into account the elasticity of the material and the size of the clasp.
We connect cups with barrels. We close the stitching seam with tape. Fixing plastic bones can be inserted into the resulting pocket.
The upper side cut of the cups and back (barrel) is treated with linen openwork elastic or elastic braid.
An elastic band is attached to the bottom of the bra.
You can use a wide elastic band (see photo), it will serve as additional support for large breasts.

Attach the straps to the protrusion of the upper part of the cup.
The straps can be either combined (elastic plus tape) or solid (only elastic or only tape).
Use strap length adjusters. They consist of a fastening buckle and a ring.
The straps can also be sewn from the main fabric. In this case, the length of the straps will be 39 cm for a girth of 90 cm and 39.5 cm for a girth of 95 cm. But again, the length of the straps will depend on the degree of elasticity of the material. The final length of the straps will be determined at the fitting.
Next we process the fastener. Ready-made ribbon with hooks is sold in sewing supply stores.
The bra model is easy to sew, but requires certain skills. The choice of material affects the processing technology, so weigh, calculate and take into account all factors in advance.
Experiment and get good results!

Large size bra pattern. Circumference under the bust is 100 and 105 cm.

This bra model perfectly models the shape of the breast up to the largest sizes.

The bra cup is soft, without wires, and consists of three parts: the lower part - two parts and one upper part.

The straps are wide.

Patterns are given in actual size with seam allowances(at the rate of 0.7 cm for all seams except the front; allowance for the front seam is 0.5 cm).

The patterns are suitable for women whose parameters fall within the limits indicated in the table below.

In any case, it is recommended to first check the patterns on cheap fabric: cut, baste, try on, make adjustments if necessary, check the length of the side parts of the bra, taking into account the degree of elasticity and type of fastener, and only after that start sewing.

It is advisable to make large-sized bras from dense fabrics, since a bra made from thin materials (guipure, thin knitwear) will not support large breasts well.

It is advisable to cut the back from an elastic fabric with a high cotton content for maximum support. The larger the size, the wider the back part (barrel).

The clasp is wide, with at least 3 hooks in 3 positions.

In large bra sizes, it is recommended to widen the width of the straps to 3-5 cm, since narrow straps deform the shoulder muscles and interfere with proper blood circulation in the arms, which leads to discomfort, fatigue, etc.

The bra cups are lined. For this purpose, fabrics are used that match the properties of the material of the top of the cup: elasticity, density, etc. And do not forget that the best option for the human body is naturalmaterials, which meet all hygienic requirements, improve the skin microclimate and do not cause irritation.

According to statistics, underwear created using 100% cotton membrane is recognized by customers as one of the most comfortable.

Lining details are cut according to the main details.

Sewing Tips:

First, we assemble the lower part of the bra cup, which consists of two parts.

Then we connect the upper and lower parts of the cup.

Sew the front seam.

The upper sections of the bra cups can be trimmed with narrow lace, openwork elastic, or edged with bias tape.

The pattern on the side of the bra is designed to use elastic fabric. To prevent this part from being too small, add a few centimeters to the length of the barrel when cutting. Finalize the girth of the bra (the length of the barrels) during the fitting, taking into account the elasticity of the material and the size of the clasp.

We connect cups with barrels. We close the stitching seam with tape. Fixing plastic bones can be inserted into the resulting pocket.

The upper side cut of the cups and back (barrel) is treated with linen openwork elastic or elastic braid.

An elastic band is attached to the bottom of the bra.

You can use a wide elastic band (see photo), it will serve as additional support for large breasts. Attach the straps to the protrusion of the upper part of the cup.

The straps can be either combined (elastic plus tape) or solid (only elastic or only tape).

The straps can also be sewn from the main fabric. In this case, the length of the straps will be 40.5 cm for a girth of 100 cm and 41 cm for a girth of 105 cm. Check the final length of the straps during the fitting.

Bras belong to corsetry products, and their main purpose is to give shape and support to the breasts. The bra pattern does not contain any allowance for freedom of fit, since the bra is one of the closest products to the body. Designing a model bra design can be done on any basic bodice pattern of an adjacent silhouette, removing all increases in freedom of fit in the chest area and adjacent areas, since the bra must fit tightly to the figure, fulfilling its main purpose.

When designing a bra made from elastic materials or with inserts made from these materials, the size of the bra parts must be reduced in accordance with the degree of elasticity of the material.

The bra cup area is the most promising area for modeling. In model bra designs, vertical lines of cup division, as in the basic bodice pattern, are rarely used, more often horizontal ones are used. But the easiest way is to make a model bra design without cup division lines and darts, replacing them with gathers. Horizontal or diagonal seam lines are the most suitable for designing almost all bra styles, they provide better support, lift and shape the breasts and have a better fit under clothing.

Most bras for daily use have a placket and a belt, consisting of two or more pieces of basic and elastic material, with a clasp that allows you to adjust the length of the bra belt. The wider the bra band, the more support it provides. The straps should be at least partially, or preferably completely, made of elastic braid, with length adjustment using special buckles - for greater comfort during use.

Solid round bra cups are created in production conditions using special equipment and special materials. This procedure, available only in production conditions, can be compensated for by thoughtful design and the correct choice of material. For example, thin transparent and/or flesh-colored materials, combined with a seamless cup design, can become the equivalent of an “invisible bra” that is visually invisible and also has a fairly simple cut.

A variation of the “invisible bra” can be individual adhesive cups without strapless poses. They have a simple conical shape and are very similar to the cups mentioned above, but they are made adhesive along the inside and edges.

When cutting out bras of a more complex design, consisting of several parts of a similar shape, you should carefully consider the method of placing control marks on the seam lines of the parts connected to each other - it is recommended to mark them the same.

Building a basic bra pattern

1. Trace the contours of the back pattern of the basic bodice pattern (leave the middle line vertical), trace the side line, the lower section of the armhole and the waist dart (ill. 1). Outline the chest line and extend it to the right to the opposite side of the sheet of paper - this will help to correctly position the front bodice pattern.

2. Set aside half the size of the chest circumference along the chest line from the middle of the back. Draw a vertical through the resulting point - the middle line of the front of the bra is obtained without the previous increase in the freedom of fit of the basic bodice pattern.

3. Line up the center front of the basic bodice pattern with the center front line you drew on the bra. Make sure that the bust line of the front bodice is horizontally drawn from the middle of the back, and that the center lines of the back and front are parallel to each other.

The side lines of the back and front will be superimposed on each other by the amount of increase in freedom of fit taken into account when constructing the basic bodice pattern.

4. Trace the contours of the front bodice pattern, trace the side line, the lines of the top dart and the waist dart.

5. Draw the side line of the bra in the middle of the area created by overlapping the parts (ill. 2). This sideline placement is suitable for bras made from thin materials and for bikini tops. For more fitted bras, with a greater degree of breast support, use a side line shifted forward - see point 9 below.

6. Double the opening of the top dart only on the armhole side.

Increase the length of the dart at the back waist by 2.5 cm.

Double the size of the darts at the waist on the back and front.

For larger cup sizes a larger increase in tuck solutions will be required. Also increase the top dart opening by half the original dart opening, as shown in Fig. 3 (for size C and larger).

7. To determine the parameters required to construct the upper and lower lines of the bra, refer to the tables below.

Draw the outlines of the original bra pattern through the obtained points.

8. Mark the location of the straps as shown in Figure 2.

9. A forward sideline is often used in bra designs to increase control of the cup area. Measure the distance along the chest line from the point of the center of the chest to the middle of the front, then set this value along the line of the chest to the left of the point of the center of the chest.

Through the point obtained on the chest line, draw a vertical line with a lateral line shifted forward. Angle this line about 1 cm towards the middle front along the bottom line of the bra for greater effect when shaping the bust area.

10. Copy the original contours of the original bra pattern in one piece (ill. 4). Outline the bust line, the side and forward side line of the bra, the top and bottom darts on the front of the bra. When copying the outline of the bra from the back, line up the sides of the dart at the back waist.

11. After combining the sides of the dart along the waist, an angle is formed on the back along the top line of the bra, which is sometimes increased for the base of the strap. If the model does not require this, it can be straightened. Mandatory adjustment in this area is necessary along the bottom line of the bra.

The section of the upper line of the bra between the side line and the upper dart (armpit area) is also adjusted; it must be slightly bent (by 0.5 cm).

Measure from the side line the length of the upper and lower bra lines after adjusting them, restore their original length at the middle back line of the bra, shifting the middle back line of the bra by the required amount.

Also, use patterned lines to mark the sections of the cup parts at the point of the center of the chest (ill. 5).

Bra cup size

To determine cup size, two dimensional characteristics are required. The first and most important is girth under bust- this dimensional sign is taken directly under the base of the mammary glands. This is the main international size characteristic (according to the European standard), which is used in the design of bras and markings on product labels.

The second dimensional feature is chest girth, when measuring it, the centimeter tape passes horizontally around the torso through the protruding points of the mammary glands. (The measuring tape should not sag on your back while taking measurements - try to keep it parallel to the floor). The difference between these two dimensional characteristics determines the cup size:

12-14cm = A cup size

14-16 cm = cup size B

16-18 cm = C cup size

By constructing the initial bra pattern as described above, we will get a bra with cup size A. If you need a larger cup size, you need to make changes to the constructed pattern (ill. 5), as shown in ill. 6, due to which the bra cup size will be increased further .

To do this, make cuts on the top and bottom of the cup along the darts. Space the cup pieces pieces 1 cm apart for each cup size. Increase the cup depth by 1 cm for each size in the longitudinal seam of the cup (add 0.5 cm to the top and bottom of the cup) and increase the width of the bra band by the corresponding amount along the top and bottom lines.

Displacement of the seam line connecting the cup parts (Fig. 7)

Bra cups with horizontal (or diagonal) seams can visually increase the height of the chest by shifting the seam line connecting the parts of the cup toward the top of the cup by 1-1.5 cm at the point of the center of the chest.

Draw a new bottom line for the top of the cup, taking into account its offset at the point of the center of the chest. Draw a matching line on the bottom of the cup. Now the most curved top line of the bottom of the cup will be longer than the corresponding line of the top of the cup. Make a cut and move the parts of the top of the cup apart by an amount that equalizes the lengths of the corresponding lines of the cup parts.

Note. The original bra pattern and the model bra designs created on its basis, made from various materials, do not have an ideal fit on the figure. When using elastic materials, you should determine the degree of stretchability of the material and make appropriate changes to the patterns of the model bra design.

It is best to try out a bra using the recommended materials, as modern elastic materials vary so much in elasticity that this is the only way to achieve the perfect fit. Each part of a bra cut from elastic material requires alteration, but often this only applies to the part of the bra band.

It can be called a modern symbol of elegance and true femininity. It emphasizes the natural beauty and shape of the breast, allowing its owner to feel more confident and desirable. This is exactly the kind of bodice that every lady should have in her wardrobe.

If you haven’t had time to buy yourself a similar new thing yet, or you still can’t choose among all the variety the model that is ideal for your bust, we suggest sewing a lace bra with your own hands.

The advantages of such a “creation”

1. if you sew lace lingerie yourself, you will be able to take into account all the features of your figure, which means the finished bra will fit you just perfectly;
2. you can choose a really good lace yourself to create a sconce;
3. The only limitation for you is your own imagination, so you can sew a similar model, as in collections from world-famous brands, or create a completely new model, which will have no analogues.

What we need:

• 1 sheet of paper or cardboard (for cutting out patterns from it);
• 2 good quality lace. The width of the lace should be approximately 15-18 cm. To cut out two cups, a piece of openwork 40-45 cm long is enough;
• 3 flat elastic band, which matches the color of the openwork. A two-meter elastic band will be quite enough;
• 4 threads in the color of lace and a needle;
• 5 pins;
• 6 good scissors;
• 7 adjuster for straps with a hook (can be purchased in special stores, where lace is purchased;
• 8 piece of chalk or soap.

How to sew a lace bra? Algorithm:

- find a pattern for a lace bodice on the Internet and print it or redraw it on a sheet of cardboard or paper;
- cut out both shapes carefully with scissors;

— place both patterns on the openwork tape so that their straight lines coincide with the edge of the pattern on the lace. Make sure that the edges of the pattern do not extend beyond the upper edges of the waves on the guipure;
- secure the patterns to the lace with pins and trace along the outline with chalk or a piece of soap;

- remove the patterns and cut out parts of the cups along the drawn contour;
— we repeat the procedure for the other cup, only we fix the patterns on the openwork with the other side so that the cups turn out to be a mirror image of each other;

— we fasten the halves together with pins so that the wavy edge is on the side;
- very carefully sew the halves together using thread and needle. The stitches need to be done quite densely so that there are no holes in the finished product;

— cut a piece from a flat elastic band, the length of which corresponds to your circumference under the chest.
— we place this piece of elastic on the table, and put the cups we sewed on top. Depending on the shape of the breast, the cups will be located either side by side or at some distance;

- fold the elastic in half so that the bottom of the cups is hidden in the elastic, secure them with pins;
- sew the folded elastic band along its entire length;

- having previously measured the length of the harness of your other bra, the cups of which are the same in height as the cups of the bodice of which we are sewing, we cut off two pieces from the elastic of exactly the same length - these will be the harnesses;

- using pins we attach pieces of elastic that will serve as harnesses. One end should be attached to the top of the cup, and the other to the elastic band that serves as the belt of our lace bra;
- sew on the harnesses using a needle and thread;

— our lace underwear will be fastened with a strap adjuster with a hook. We sew it on one end of the openwork sconce belt, and on the other we form a small loop and sew it;

- almost ready. To make it more interesting, we sew two more identical pieces of elastic over each cup.

Result:

Such