Even prehistoric man used precious stones for decoration, and there is probably not a single era in the history of mankind when people did not find charm in the multi-colored splendor of minerals.
Gemstones vary in degree of hardness. Only diamond, which the Greeks called invincible, “adamas,” has the greatest hardness of 10 units.
Stones with a hardness level of 9 to 7 were previously defined as genuine gemstones, which with decreasing hardness became semi-precious or simply decorative. Until now, there is no single point of view on this matter, because the evaluation criterion is not only hardness, but also rarity and beauty.
In the hardness scale developed by Friedrich Mohse, diamond appears with a degree of 10 units, followed by ruby and sapphire - 9, cat's eye, alexandrite, chrysoberyl, spinel, emerald, aquamarine and noble topaz - 8, amethyst, hyacinth, tourmaline, garnet, citrine , smoky topaz and rose quartz - 7 and other colored or transparent stones, pleasing to the eye in a beautiful frame, polished or carved. The measure of a gemstone is the carat.
But they were satisfied not only with beauty and the play of light; At all times, precious stones were also used as a material for small sculptures - for example, stone carving (glyptics) was known and popular among all peoples of antiquity. These are intaglio gems (recessed carved images) and cameos (protruding carved images). Even now it is difficult to find anything equal to the works of ancient masters.
But along with precious stones, stones of natural origin, such as pearls and amber, were also used.
Pearls are equal in beauty to precious stones. Large, smooth, round pearls are called large or Burmite pearls; especially large pearls are called “parangons”, and angular, large pearls of irregular shape are called “freaks” - because of their fantastic shape they were used in works of applied art, for example, as fragments of a human or animal body.
The smallest pearls were used to decorate women's clothing, and in Baroque times, a robe sewn with pearls or threads in several rows was a necessary accessory for a high society woman's wardrobe.
Amber was used as a decorative material in ancient times - this is evidenced by the finds of amber in Mycenaean tombs, which date back to approximately 2000 BC, and in the north, amber jewelry was worn by Stone Age people.
They mined “gold of the sea” by collecting it on the seashore; later they were caught with nets and spears. It happened like this: sitting in a boat, on clear days they stirred up the seabed with a long hook and the current of the water picked up the amber, which was then caught in nets. Amber jewelry has always been valued and attributed healing properties.
In Russia, precious stones were not only a symbol of beauty, but with their help, symbols of supreme power were given even greater significance. In the 14th-16th centuries, symbols of supreme (royal) power - the scepter, crown, orb, and royal staff - were decorated with numerous stones.
The most striking example of such art is the "Monomakh's Cap". Its top is abundantly covered with precious stones: emeralds, sapphires, rubies, tourmalines and pearls. The “Cap of Monomakh”, as a symbol of the highest state power in Rus', was used to crown all Moscow Grand Dukes.
Ivan IV (the Terrible) collected enormous wealth in the Kremlin. Products with turquoise, corals, rubies, sapphires, emeralds and other precious stones replenished the royal storerooms under him.
Made in 1552 in honor of the capture of Kazan by the troops of Ivan the Terrible, the “Cap of the Kingdom of Kazan” is an example of a successful combination of Eastern and Russian art: the golden crown has a carved ornament with kokoshniks in the Russian style, and it is trimmed with pearls, garnets and turquoise - stones, which jewelers of the East loved to use.
Modern research has shown that items with precious stones made before the 17th century used stones that were imported from abroad. Academician A.E. Fersman wrote that at that period of Russian history, the mining of Russian gems and Russian stone for jewelry had not yet been carried out. A.E. Fersman believed that in the 13th-16th centuries Russia received colored stones from Byzantium and the East.
Mining of Russian gems began around the middle of the 17th century. At this time, malachite was discovered in the Urals, and at the end of the 17th century, deposits of agates, chalcedony, jasper and carnelian were discovered along the rivers of Eastern Siberia.
Under Peter I, the development of the “dirty business” received a powerful impetus, since the tsar personally supervised the search and extraction of precious stones. During his reign, deposits of rock crystal, amethysts, beryls and other gems were discovered. Ural gems have become widely known.
In the 20s - 50s of the last century, deposits of emeralds, topazes, rubies, chrysolites, diamonds and other precious stones were discovered in Russia.
The art of stone processing in Russia in the 19th century reached a very high level. During the construction of the world-famous palaces of St. Petersburg (Winter, Stroganov, Marble, Tsarskoe Selo, Peterhof, Pavlovsk), as well as cathedrals (Isaakievsky, Peter and Paul, etc.), a variety of colored stones from Russia and other countries were used (marbles, jasper, quartzites, malachite, lapis lazuli, rhodonite, etc.).
Wonderful vases, tabletops, candlesticks, writing instruments and other products that were in high demand both in Russia and in the West were made from Ural malachite.
At the First World Exhibition in London in 1851, the Russian exposition of jewelry and treasures enjoyed well-deserved success. Many Russian products and stones received prizes.
Among the jewelry companies in Russia in the second half of the 19th century, the company founded in 1848 in St. Petersburg by Carl Faberge stood out; there were large jewelry workshops of that time (Reimer, Holstrem and Collin), whose products were distinguished by a clear design with relief details. Faberge products used jade, jasper, rock crystal, lapis lazuli and various quartz. Faberge workshops made many products on orders from members of the royal family.
At the World Exhibition in Paris, Russian artistic stone products were a great success. After this exhibition, the Faberge firm opened its branch to serve the countries of the West and East.
At the end of the 19th century, the synthesis of corundum group gemstones was carried out, and from 1902 synthetic rubies began to be supplied to the market, and a little later - sapphires and spinel. This gave a new impetus to the development of the production of jewelry stones. But the appearance of large quantities of synthetic stones on the market did not reduce, but significantly increased the role and cost of natural jewelry.
In the 70s - 80s of our century, the cost of jewelry diamonds almost tripled. Jewelry made from precious natural stones is still highly valued, and in the future their value will only increase.
Human interest in jewelry and decorations has its roots in more than a thousand years of human history. The first jewels were discovered in ancient burials dating back approximately 20,000 years. They were jewelry made from processed shells and necklaces made from bone. In later times, precious stones were used as symbols of divine and earthly power and authority, talismans that protected against misfortunes.
The beauty of gold and precious stones and interest in them stimulated the development of decorative arts. Jadeite carving was common in China 4500 years ago. At the same time, master jewelers of Sumer and Egypt made complex jewelry from lapis lazuli, carnelian, turquoise, amethyst, and garnet. Cameos and other jewelry made from agate were especially popular in ancient Rome, and also later in the Middle Ages. The craftsmen skillfully used the variety of colors of different layers of stone. An example of their creativity is a cameo depicting Emperor Augustus, which in the Middle Ages became part of a diadem.
The history of the development of jewelry and the closely related culture of precious stones as jewelry goes back about five thousand years. Only very scanty information has been preserved about its earliest stages, since there are no archaeological finds dating back to those times. very little. The Cairo Museum (Egypt) contains bracelets extracted from the tomb of Pharaoh Djoser (Abydos), who belonged to the 1st dynasty (3200 - 2800 BC). The culture of Ancient Egypt and the Ancient East is adjacent to the ancient culture of Greece and Rome. This is followed by the medieval culture of the Celts, Franks and Germans, in the development of which several stages are distinguished: the Carolingian era, the era of Otto I and the Saxon dynasty, the Romanesque and Gothic eras. The Middle Ages are replaced by the Renaissance, and the pomp of the times of absolutism (the Baroque and Rococo eras) is replaced by the modern culture of the 19th and 20th centuries.
In the Egyptian inlays of the XII-XVII dynasties (2000-1700 AD), mainly red carnelian, blue lapis lazuli (lapis lazuli), turquoise and amazonite, as well as colored glass, were used. The tombs of the kings of ancient Ur allow us to judge the art of the goldsmiths of Sumer, which reached its peak in the middle of the 3rd millennium BC. e. and clearly drew on a long tradition of working lapis lazuli, red limestone and mother-of-pearl. The Greeks adopted the art of inlay from the Egyptians. They decorated their statues, covered with plates of gold and ivory, with precious stones, and inserted these stones into the eye sockets of sculptural images of the gods of the ancient pantheon.
How and where were the stones mined? The first stones were probably found in river pebbles at the bottom of rivers and on the banks. In developed ancient civilizations, stone mining became a branch of the economy. Turquoise (Sinai) and amethyst (in the Aswan area) were mined in Egypt, and lapis lazuli was imported from Afghanistan, where the only known mining site at that time was Badagshan. The best quality lapis lazuli is still being mined in the mines of Badagshan, 6,000 years later. The ancient Romans mined agate from a deposit near Idar-Oberstein (Germany), where agate mining resumed in the Middle Ages and continues to this day. Also famous are the deposits of precious stones (diamonds, sapphires, rubies, spinels) of very high quality in India, Sri Lanka, and Burma. One of the Sanskrit manuscripts noted that Indian diamonds were an important source of government revenue 2000 years ago.
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In this article I want to talk about the rich history of precious stones. The history of precious stones is rich in tales of adventure and legends of success and various misfortunes, including complete ruin, illness and even death. In Antiquity, precious stones were worn as talismans; they were valued for their healing properties and endowed with magical powers. The magical and mystical properties attributed to precious stones are due precisely to the fact that they are rare, beautiful, pleasant to the touch and brightly colored.
Precious stones have long been considered something unusual and very valuable. Many stones made long journeys from distant countries along dangerous trade routes, and therefore they were credited with even greater magical powers, and their price increased. Depending on which stones became more accessible, tastes and fashion changed in the world. Nowadays, diamonds are most valued and can be seen even in wedding rings, symbolizing love and fidelity, but this was not always the case.
In the past, at different periods of time, the most valuable were considered turquoise, amethyst, lapis lazuli, jasper and carnelian (carnelian). Jasper was most popular in China and Mexico. In Ancient Egypt and the ancient civilizations of Central and South America, emeralds were valued. The Romans favored emeralds, sapphires, amethysts, jasper and carnelian, and used diamonds primarily for cameos rather than jewelry.
Many legends associated with precious stones were passed down by word of mouth. A lot of information was gleaned from travel 
diaries and letters of travelers and collectors, as well as from inventories of private or museum collections and royal collections. In the 13th century Italian traveler Marco Polo (c. 1254-1324) traveled to China. The Book of Marco Polo, written in his words, reports that when he was received by the ruler of Mongolia, Kublai Khan, he presented him with sapphires as a gift. The birthplace of these sapphires was the southwest of Sri Lanka (Ceylon), near the city of Ratnapuru. In the 17th century trade in precious stones brought the French merchant Jean Baptiste Tavernier (1605-1689) a fortune. In 1631-1668. Tavernier made six trips to India and Persia, from where he brought back many large diamonds and other precious stones, some of which he sold to King Louis XIV of France.
Most of the most famous gemstones, each of which has a special name, are diamonds. As they passed from owner to owner, they were renamed and recut, which surrounds their history with mysteries that often make it difficult, and sometimes even impossible, to obtain accurate information about the size, shape and weight of such stones.
You can study museum exhibits, some famous diamonds can be seen in paintings and photographs, but stones bought at auction by a private individual who “wishes to remain anonymous” and stones that fall into the hands of robbers simply disappear from view, sometimes for many years. The blue Nassak diamond, also known as the Eye of the Idol, originally weighed 90 carats and adorned the statue of the god Shiva in the city of Nassak (now Nashik) in India. In 1818 it was captured by the British as a war trophy. In 1927, recut in New York. It currently weighs 43 carats and is privately owned in the United States.
The diamonds with the most interesting histories were found primarily in the alluvial deposits of Golconda, a region in south-central India. These include Koh-i-Noor, Orlov, Regent (Pitt) and Hope diamonds. Some of the largest and most famous diamonds were found at the Premier Mine in South Africa, including the Cullinan Diamond and the Taylor-Burton Diamond (which weighed 69.42 carats when cut).
The world's largest diamonds are the Golden Jubilee (or Unnamed Brown), weighing 545.67 carats, and the De Beers diamond, the Millennium Star, weighing 203 carats, which was processed over ten years over two years.lapidaries were found in Africa. In 1988, the Diamond of the Century (original crystal weighed 599 carats, cut 273.85 carats) was cut by De Beers to commemorate its centenary.
Famous colored diamonds include the Hope Blue Diamond, the Dresden Green Diamond—a pear-shaped stone the color of a green apple—and the Tiffany Yellow Diamond (cut diamond weighs 128.54 carats). Other colored diamonds include the Townshend Blue (located in the Victoria and Albert Museum, London) and the already mentioned Nassac blue diamond. The Dresden Green Diamond is the largest diamond of this color in the world (it weighs 41 carats); Apart from a few episodes when it was pawned, it has been in the vault of the Dresden Palace since it was purchased by Augustus the Strong in 1743 for 150,000 American dollars.
Today, pink diamonds mined at the Argyle mine in Western Australia are especially prized. In 1986, the huge Unnamed Brown diamond was used by De Beers to test new laser diamond cutting technology. The diamond originally weighed 755.5 carats, and 
after cutting, its weight was 545.7 carats. It was called the “Golden Jubilee” and was presented to King Rama IX of Thailand in connection with his fiftieth anniversary on the throne. Another brown diamond, the Incomparable (407 carats), was found in the Congo in 1980.
Other very famous gemstones include the red spinel "Black Prince Ruby" (shaped as a bead the size of a hen's egg, weighing approximately 170 carats, found in the Crown of the British Empire), and the "Kuwaiti Ruby", or "Timur Ruby", named after named after its first reliably known owner, Tamerlane. The stone weighs 361 carats and is included in a necklace of smaller spinels; The stone is an ancient Indian cut, covered with numerous inscriptions that allow us to trace its history. Also worthy of mention are the St Edward's Sapphire and the Stuart Sapphire, or the Charles II Sapphire (both of which are found in the Crown of the British Empire), the Devonshire Emerald, the Edwards Ruby and the Rosser Reeves and Appalachian Star star rubies. "
Everything about everything. Volume 5 Likum Arkady
When were gemstones discovered?
No one knows when precious stones were first discovered, but man has been fascinated by them since ancient times. For thousands of years, jewelry has been worn to ward off spirits and illness. Even today, some people believe in the special powers of stones. We find the first mention of precious stones in the Bible. Chapter 28 of the Old Testament speaks of a body plate worn by a high church minister, Aaron. The plate was decorated with 12 precious stones. The ancient Egyptians used precious stones in designs and jewelry. They were skilled in the art of working with precious stones, and their designs on stones are still preserved today.
The Egyptians wore amulets known as scarabs. These were precious stones shaped into the shape of the sacred Egyptian beetle. It was believed that those who wear scarabs are protected by good spirits. In ancient times, different gemstones were distinguished by color. The name "ruby" was given to all red-colored gemstones. All green stones were called emerald, and blue stones were called sapphire.
It was later discovered that some gems were harder and more durable than others. It became obvious that the value of a stone depends not only on color, brightness, rarity, but also on its hardness. For example, a diamond is considered the most precious today because, in addition to its magnificence, it also has the greatest hardness among all stones. Many stones are called precious. But in reality, this name refers only to the four most valuable stones - diamond, ruby, emerald and sapphire.
From the book Encyclopedic Dictionary (G-D) author Brockhaus F.A. From the book Everything about everything. Volume 1 author Likum ArkadyWhat are gems? Precious stones have always surprised people. For many thousands of years, people wore them as amulets to protect themselves from illness and evil spirits. It was believed that with the help of some gems, their owner was able to predict the future. Other stones allegedly
From the book Great Soviet Encyclopedia (DR) by the author TSB From the book Everything about everything. Volume 5 author Likum ArkadyWhen were gemstones discovered? No one knows when precious stones were first discovered, but man has been fascinated by them since ancient times. For thousands of years, jewelry has been worn to ward off spirits and illness. Even today some people believe in a special power
From the book Encyclopedia of Etiquette by Emily Post. Rules of good manners and refined manners for all occasions. [Etiquette] by Peggy's PostWhat are gems? To be considered precious, a stone must have certain properties. It must be beautiful, hard and durable enough, it must be rare and valuable enough. Diamonds, rubies and emeralds have all these qualities in
author Melnikov IlyaPRECIOUS STONES CORRESPONDING TO THE ZODIAC SIGNS The birthday person is usually very pleased when he (or she) is given jewelry on his birthday with the stone that corresponds to his (or her) zodiac sign. Moreover, a ring with such a precious or
From the book Modern Encyclopedia of Baths author Dominov EduardArtistic metal processing. Precious and semi-precious
From the book Encyclopedia of Dowsing author Krasavin Oleg Alekseevich From the book Artistic Metal Processing. Precious and semi-precious stones author Melnikov Ilya From the book Crimes in Psychiatry [Victims of experiments and more...] author Fadeeva Tatyana Borisovna From the book A Sassy Book for Girls author Fetisova Maria SergeevnaPrecious stones Precious stones include stones of mineral origin - transparent, with a bright shine, very hard and hard to wear diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, and stones of organic origin - pearls. For precious stones, by weight unit
From the book Universal Encyclopedic Reference author Isaeva E. L. From the book Who's Who in the Natural World author Sitnikov Vitaly PavlovichPrecious stones and jewelry Part I Precious stones and jewelry containing them are of exceptional value. In addition, it is traditionally believed that this or that stone has a certain power and is able to protect its owner from certain troubles.
From the book Simple Questions. A book similar to an encyclopedia author Antonets Vladimir AlexandrovichPrecious stones Precious stones are rare and very beautiful minerals. They are used to make jewelry. Almost all precious stones can be obtained artificially. Such analogues are very similar to real stones, but significantly
From the author's bookWhat are gems? To be considered precious, a stone must have certain properties. It must be beautiful, hard and durable enough, it must be rare and valuable enough. Diamonds, rubies and emeralds have all these qualities
From the author's bookWhy are gemstones rare? The high cost and rarity of precious stones are related, but due to different reasons. Rarity is always explained by the conditions of origin. Value is determined by people. Russian legislation considers precious
This article will forever change your opinion about precious and semi-precious stones. If you consider them ordinary pieces of glass, then learn to appreciate jewelry. If these stones already impress you, you will understand why they are loved all over the world.
So. Why is one stone sold by the whole carload, while auctions are held for a gram of another? Why are even expensive minerals divided into precious and semi-precious and cost differently? In the material you will find answers to these and other questions.
What is a gemstone
First, we will define the word “stone” itself. Stone refers to rocks and minerals that were formed naturally, that is, without human intervention.
To be called precious, a stone must meet three criteria: to be rare, durable and beautiful. Let's look at each of these characteristics.
1. Rarity of the stone
The rarity of a stone is determined by the difficulty of its occurrence in nature. This complexity has numerical indicators, which we will illustrate using the example of diamond mining - future diamonds.
Diamond mine. Source: ALROSA Miners dig diamond ore out of the ground, from which other specialists then extract diamond crystals. For mining to be profitable, 1 ton of ore must contain at least 0.5 diamond carats. Now imagine the following.
That's not all. Only 20% of all diamonds are suitable for jewelry. The rest goes to technical needs. It turns out that out of 1 carat mined, only 0.20 carats will end up in the jewelry. And this is only 0.040 grams.
From 1 ton of ore, 4/100 of a gram of diamond is obtained. This mass is not enough to insert even into one ring.
Imagine how much work needs to be done, how much land needs to be dug, so that every woman is happy on her engagement day!
2. Durability of the stone
No corporation will develop a complex deposit of stones and minerals that quickly become unusable. No person will buy products with fragile inserts. Therefore, durability is a determining factor for a stone that claims to be precious.
The durability of a gemstone is measured in hundreds and thousands of years.
The same gemstone can be hard and brittle at the same time. For example, diamond is so strong that it is used to test the hardness of other minerals. At the same time, if dropped, this crystal can crack and even break.
3. The beauty of stone
Beauty in precious stones is also a quantifiable concept. For example, the cost is affected by color saturation, the degree of refraction of a sun ray, the color absorption spectrum and other characteristics that professional gemologists check with special devices.
It is unlikely that a person will appreciate all these qualities at one glance. However, when you see a piece of jewelry with a precious stone on your interlocutor or in a showroom, just imagine the characteristics of the mineral, be impressed by the product and appreciate it. Think about how the stone was searched for, how it was evaluated according to all possible criteria, and how it was shaped.
Scientists have learned to synthesize rare stones, but their price is not even close to the prices of natural diamonds, rubies, sapphires and other precious stones. Only a mineral found in the depths of the earth can be considered a real gemstone.
AQUAMARINE works with precious stones that have documents confirming their authenticity. And each diamond in our products also has an evaluation certificate from a gemological laboratory.
Diamond Grading Certificate from GIA Gemological Laboratory A Brief History of Diamonds
It was the Hindus who first began to impart precious properties to stones. Several thousand years BC, Indian rajahs adorned themselves with diamonds found throughout the country. In those days, people did not yet know how to change the original shape of crystals.
According to popular belief, diamonds were brought to Europe by the soldiers of Alexander the Great from the campaigns. Local residents did not appreciate the beauty of uncut stones, and after several decades, kings across the continent began to decorate weapons and armor with cut diamonds. In the 15th century AD, court women and men began to wear diamonds.
Since then, thanks to deposits around the world, diamonds have become valued in every corner of the Earth.
What is a semi-precious stone
Manufacturers, sellers and buyers give different names to stones that are slightly cheaper than precious stones. Two equivalent terms are popular: semi-precious and jewelry stones.
Some people consider the term "semi-precious stone" to be outdated. Because of the prefix, the half-value of the mineral becomes discredited. The buyer may perceive the stone as inferior and not buy a product with it. Therefore, the term “jewelry stone” came into use. Professionals will understand you if you use any of these terms.
Jewelry (or semi-precious) stones are less beautiful, rare and durable than precious stones. At the same time, they have wonderful properties to decorate your product.
Summarize
- The weight of gemstones is measured in carats.
- 1 carat is equal to 0.2 grams.
- Gemstones have three evaluation criteria: beauty, rarity and durability.
- From 1 ton of diamond ore you can get no more than 4/100 of a gram of diamond.
- Leading jewelry manufacturers only use stones with certificates of authenticity.
- Jewelry and semi-precious stones are equivalent concepts.
Now you have clear knowledge about precious and semi-precious stones, their characteristics, differences and, we hope, appreciate them.
Stay tuned for our next article. In it we will tell you how precious stones are held in jewelry.
Jewelry gemstones of mineral origin - these are the rarest minerals, having high transparency, beautiful play and great hardness (8-10 units). The unit of mass for precious stones of mineral origin is the metric carat, equal to 0.2 g, adopted in 1907 by the International Committee of Weights and Measures in Paris.
Diamond- consists of crystalline carbon; it is the hardest of all substances on earth (10 units on the Mohs scale) and the most expensive of gems, has the highest refractive index (2.4). density - 3.52 g/cm3. Since ancient times, scientists have sought to explain the origin of this amazing mineral. A scientifically based hypothesis of the origin of diamond was developed only after the discovery of primary deposits. According to this hypothesis, the formation of diamond crystals is associated with the crystallization of molten magma at great depths under very high pressures.
According to scientists, carbon dissolved in the magma until it was completely saturated.
The amount of carbon dissolved in the magma depended on its composition and temperature. When cooling, the magma could no longer contain the same amount of carbon, and it was gradually released from it in the form of crystals of pure carbon - diamond. The release of carbon occurred according to the following formula 2CO → C0 2 + C. Moreover, carbon dioxide was reduced under the influence of free hydrogen and hydrocarbons released from the magma.
Until 1725, diamonds were mined only in India, where they were found 2800 years ago. In Russia, the first diamond was found in 1829 in the Urals. In 1879, diamonds were discovered in South Africa not on the banks of a river, but in a rock called “kimberlite” (from the name of the nearby village of Kimberley) - the first diamond deposit in the form of a vertical funnel-shaped pipe filled with kimberlite igneous rock. Kimberlite pipes have a diameter of several hundred meters and run vertically into the depths of the earth. Kimberlite, the rock that fills such pipes, contains 1 g of diamonds per 10 tons of rock.
In 1954, Yakut diamonds were discovered in the USSR, which currently account for 99% of Russian diamond production. Russia, represented by the Yakut company Alrosa, is the largest after De Beers , manufacturer of jewelry diamonds in the world.
Russian diamonds are among the best in the world in terms of shape, quality, and size. They are suitable for making pairs of large diamonds, which are in great demand in the global diamond market.
Diamonds are mined using open and closed (mine) methods.
The Lomonosov diamond deposit, discovered in 1980, 100 km north of Arkhangelsk, is the largest in Europe. Diamond mining began here in 1996. The deposit has diamond reserves of 130-250 million carats (not inferior to South Africa and Botswana). Moreover, 50% of them are jewelry, and there are diamonds up to 40 carats of a unique lilac color. Arkhangelsk diamond pipes are of good quality, price is about $100 per carat. The expected production volume is 3-6 million carats per year for 30 years. The average diamond content is 0.74 carats per ton, which is higher than in deposits in Yakutia.
Only 20-30% of mined diamonds are used in jewelry production; the rest have defects and are used in industry (cutting, grinding and polishing tools, etc.).
According to experts, there are still a little more than 400 million carats of diamonds left in the ground all over the world, while their annual production is 40-50 million carats.
Diamonds weighing more than 20 carats are usually given their own names; they are part of human culture. The Russian diamond fund began with two large diamonds, “Shah” (88.4 carats) and “Orlov” (193 carats). “Shah” was presented to Nicholas I by the heir to the Persian throne after the assassination of Griboyedov in Tehran in 1829.
The names of the eastern owners of this stone are engraved on it. Diamond "Orlov"- an amazingly beautiful stone with a light greenish-blue tint, reminiscent of a large rose, was bought by Count Grigory Orlov for 400 thousand rubles. and presented to Catherine II on her birthday (inserted into the Russian scepter).
With the discovery of Yakut diamonds, the Diamond Fund was significantly replenished with stones: "XXVI Congress"(392 carats) - lemon yellow the size of a chicken egg, "Star of Yakutia"- pure water 232.1 carats, etc. The most recent find (1991) - diamond "Free Russia"(241.8 carats).
But the Cullinan diamond weighing 3106 carats, found in 1905 in South Africa, remains unsurpassed in size; It is used to create 105 diamonds, including the Star of Africa, Cullinan I and Cullinan II, which are set in the royal scepter and crown of England. The Excelsior diamond - 971.5 carats was found in South Africa in 1893, 21 diamonds and others were made from it. Large stones are very rare, 99% of all jewelry diamonds mined in the world are stones less than 1 carat, and a diamond weighing 10 carats - one in 10 thousand.
The quality, and therefore the cost, of diamonds mined at different mines and in different countries differ significantly:
1 carat of Australian diamonds sells for an average of $10;
1 carat of diamonds from Angola sells for an average of $20;
1 carat diamonds from Namibia sell for an average of $350;
1 carat of diamonds from Yakutia sells for an average of $80...90.
The market for rough and polished diamonds is one of the most monopolized sectors of international trade, since control over trade is directly or indirectly exercised by a transnational company De Beers. About 50% of the world's rough diamond production in value terms comes to market only through its intermediary.
The modern diamond market is described by the following formula:
Where: 8 - raw materials, natural diamonds, billion $;
12 - wholesale trade of loose diamonds, $ billion;
50 - turnover of diamond jewelry, billion $.
In Russia, the diamond market formula looks like this:
The difference between the formulas is as follows:
Profitability of diamond mining (profitability level is approximately 50%);
Low level of domestic consumption.
The stone acquires most of its value after cutting. Prices for diamonds range from $50 to $50 thousand per 1 carat. According to legend, the Venetian master Vincenzo Peruzzi was the first to cut a diamond; according to other sources, diamond cutting was invented by the Flemish Louis Robert de Berktem.
Russia has a powerful cutting industry; about 60% of mined jewelry diamonds are cut in Russia. In Russia, rough diamonds are cut into brilliants by three cutting plants of the Kristall system and another 42 small enterprises.
More than 50% of diamond products are produced at three Russian jewelry factories (Moscow Experimental Jewelry Factory, Russian Gems JSC, St. Petersburg, and Ural Jewelers JSC, Yekaterinburg).
Every year, jewelry with diamonds is sold around the world, almost $50 billion worth, of which the value of the precious stones themselves reaches $12 billion (including in Japan - $14 billion, in the USA - $13 billion). Thus, Japan is in first place in the consumption of diamond jewelry, with a population half that of the United States.
In 1996, a unique diamond necklace worth $1 million was selected from among the 30 best diamond items in the most prestigious competition, the International Diamond Awards, held by the corporation. . Author - designer Elena Okaleva (JSC "Jewelers of the Urals", Yekaterinburg). The necklace is called the Gizech Sphinx - it combines modern design with the traditions of Russian jewelry in the Faberge style: blue enamel and 165 diamonds made at the Smolensk Kristall factory. Currently, the necklace is on display at the factory's museum.
In the global trade in diamonds, there is no unity in assessing their weight, clarity, shape and color. But recently, a trend toward stabilization has emerged: rational shapes and geometric proportions of diamonds have been found, units of mass measurement have been streamlined, and a unified terminology for clarity, cut, imperfection, color, etc. has been clarified.
In 1978, the World Congress on Precious Stones was held, which approved uniform rules for certification according to the international classification. The classification is based on the geometric and qualitative characteristics of diamonds: shape, determined by the outline of the girdle, type of cut, weight, color, defects.
TU 25-07.1319 “Diamonds. Technical conditions" are provided forms diamond cuts and designations.
The shape of diamonds has a significant impact on their price: as a rule, fancy-shaped diamonds have the highest price, and preference is given to paired diamonds.
By weight, diamonds of all shapes are divided into 3 groups: small (up to 0.29 carats), medium (from 0.30 to 0.99 carats), large (more than 1.00 carats). There is a certain relationship between the mass of a diamond and its diameter.
All other things being equal, the value of a diamond increases as its weight increases. Due to the fact that the price of one carat of diamonds is determined for the entire weight group, at the boundaries of the weight groups there is a sharp jump in the price of diamonds.
Depending on the color and intensity of color, diamonds are classified into color groups : small diamonds Kr-17 and Kr-33 - by 1, small diamonds (except Kr-17 and Kr-33) - by 7 and medium large diamonds - by 9 groups.
A true black diamond - a transparent black stone - is extremely rare. Almost opaque stone is more common, as it is filled with graphite.
The most valuable are diamonds that do not have any color shades. The exception is highly colored (museum) diamonds. Diamonds with a delicate blue tint are also highly valued. Yellow and brown diamonds are the least expensive.
Approximate cost of diamonds, taking into account in full bloom can be expressed as the following percentage:
White - 100, i.e. without bloom;
With slight color - 90;
With a slight bloom - 85-80;
With bloom - 75;
Yellow - 60-55;
Brown - 35.
In Italy, a method has been developed for producing diamonds of all colors by irradiating them with accelerated electrons. However, the price of natural colored diamonds (blue, green, golden, yellow) per carat is hundreds of times more expensive. than artificial ones.
Depending on the natural defects allowed, diamonds are classified into groups defects:
Small Kr-17 and Kr-33 - into 6 groups;
Small ones, except Kr-17 and Kr-33 - into 9 groups;
Medium and large - for 12 groups.
The first defective group includes diamonds without defects. In this case, the defect group is established taking into account four characteristics:
Type of defect (dot, stripe, crack, bubbles, microscopic seams, growth lines, graphite inclusions and cloud);
Number of defects;
Location of the defect (central zone, middle and peripheral);
The degree of severity of the defect (barely visible, insignificant, slightly visible to the naked eye, visible to the naked eye and transparent to view at least 60%, less than 60% and less than 30% of the bottom facets of the diamond).
The defectiveness group of diamonds sharply reduces their value. Diamonds that have no defects are the most valuable.
Thus, when determining the group of defects, a unified approach is used, but at the same time, the larger the stone and the more complex its cutting, the more carefully its quality is controlled.
By geometric parameters, diamonds, depending on the requirements of technical documentation (the magnitude of deviation from the shape of a circle in ovality or deviation from the plane of symmetry, etc.) are divided into groups “A” and “B”.
The diamond code contains all the main characteristics of the stone. Thus, the code Kr57-0.51-1/1A is a round diamond with 57 facets, weighing 0.51 carats, 1st color group (colorless) and 1st defect group (no defects), group of geometric parameters “A” .
Diamond Defects can be on the surface and inside of diamonds, so they are divided into two groups: internal And external.
Domestic defects especially significantly affect the degree of purity, and therefore the price of the diamond. Most of them are formed before or during diamond crystallization. These include:
point switching - visible inclusion in the form of a small white or black dot. It should not be confused with dust particles or impact marks on the surface of the diamond;
group of point inclusions - 3-5 points located close to each other;
crystalline inclusions (larger than a point) are inclusions of other minerals - crystals, less often - inclusions of diamond in diamond;
dark crystalline inclusions or "grain". These are most often sulfide minerals. “Sulfide spot” is a black-brown defect;
cloud - a group of points (from several tens to several thousand). They appear during the growth process of diamonds;
splits (cracks) - are formed not only during diamond crystallization, but also during the cutting process;
laser hole - a narrow channel drilled with a laser.
It goes from the surface of the stone to a dark inclusion, which is lightened by introducing acid or corrosive gas into the channel. To reduce the visibility of the canal, it is drilled perpendicular to the platform or edges of the crown. Sometimes, to prevent dirt from entering the channel, it is filled with synthetic resin. Thanks to the resin, the canal is not so noticeable. Its diameter is no more than 20 microns. The laser hole can be detected by running a metal needle across the surface of the diamond - it will catch on the beginning of the hole and leave metal particles on it.
External defects arise from careless handling of diamonds and poor cutting quality. These include:
impact mark in the form of a dot - a small white dot formed during processing, as well as when sorting diamonds and storing them in bags (not to be confused with dust particles - they can be removed with a metal needle or alcohol);
depression - serious damage occurs during cutting due to loosening of inclusions located near the surface. There may often be cracks around the cavity;
scratch - formed due to careless handling (a large number of stones in one package);
damaged diamond culet - is a knife on a culet;
Knife- part of the natural unpolished surface of a diamond left on the facets or girdle of a diamond. The knives can be recessed, as well as the knives, which are visible when viewing the stone through the edges of the top, usually affect the clarity rating.
beard - a defect on the girdle consisting of chips located close to each other, perpendicular to the girdle. Occurs due to careless grinding and cutting;
recess - a knocked-out part of the girdle, a rather serious defect, as it is visible at first glance;
polishing lines - these are scratches on the edges that were formed during cutting and were not removed during polishing;
burn mark - small white spots on the surface. Appear during cutting. To prevent them from occurring, it is necessary to apply a sufficient amount of borax to the stone during processing.
Compliance with the requirements of proportion and symmetry specified in the technical documentation has a great influence on the quality and cost of a diamond. When checking the proportions, the diameter of the diamond is measured, the degree of deviation of the girdle shape from the ideal round is established, the size of the diamond platform, the height of its upper part, the height of the girdle and narrow part, the height of the lower part of the diamond, the angles of inclination of the top and bottom edges to the plane of the girdle are determined.
When determining symmetry, the size and correct placement of the edges (facets), the pattern and location of the platform relative to the girdle plane, the size and location of the culet relative to the center of the platform are checked.
In the process of checking the surface of a diamond, the quality is determined:
Treatment of the girdle surface (roughness, graininess, uniformity of edges, the presence of natural edges and the condition of their surface);
Polishing (presence of grinding marks on the platform and edges, damage in the form of tiny chips and stripes, dullness of edges and edges, burn marks);
Culets (cleanliness of polishing, presence of damage). Compliance of the geometry and manufacturing quality of diamonds with the requirements of the specifications is checked using a magnifying glass providing 10x magnification and an ICh-10 type indicator, i.e. it is generally accepted that if a defect is not visible at 10x magnification, then it is not taken into account.
To processing defects diamonds include:
1.n non-compliance of the geometric shape of the diamond with the specified parameters.
When viewing a diamond through the top of the stone, the first thing to determine is the size of the table. If the table is small and its size is less than 53% of the diameter ("closed" table), the diamond loses a significant portion of its "play". When the size of the table is more than 65%, the diamond has a reflection of the table in a gray background and also loses its “game”. When the table is tilted or offset relative to the vertical axis of the diamond, its appearance and “play” also deteriorate.
The “play” of a diamond is especially affected by compliance or non-compliance with the specified angles of inclination of the edges of its bottom to the plane of the girdle. The nature of the placement of the bottom edges determines the degree of internal reflection of the light flux, which is the main indicator of the use of foam optical properties of diamond - total internal reflection and light dispersion.
With an ideal cut, when the angle of inclination of the lower edges is 40.7°, all rays entering the inner part of the diamond, after repeated reflection from its inner edges, exit through the top, creating a high color " game " Diamonds cut with an angle of less than 40° acquire a glassy luster. With a deep bottom (the angle of the facets is more than 42°), an increased reflection of the dark-colored platform is visible, which, of course, reduces the quality of the diamond.
2. Failure to comply with the relationship between the height of the diamond and its diameter.
Diamonds that have a large bottom and top height lose a significant portion of the light rays, because... They transmit a large amount of light and their shine is more reminiscent of rock crystal or glass than diamond. Diamonds of insufficient height (less than 60% of diameter), lacking games "received the name " fish eye ».
3. Asymmetrical pattern, displacement of the faces and edges of the upper and lower parts of the diamond, lack of clarity in the design of the faces and edges (rolling), deviation from the plane of the face with the formation of an additional edge (cutting), etc.
4. Low quality girdle. The diamond girdle around the entire perimeter (circumference) should have the same height in all its parts. The height of the girdle can be from 0.5 to 5% of the diameter of the stone, i.e. the girdle can be very thin (0.5%), thin (1%), medium (1-2%); thick (3-4%), very thick (5%). The surface of the girdle should be smooth. The rough, grainy surface of the girdle with small cracks extending deep into the diamond is a defect. The set of radial microcracks coming from the girdle and visible when viewed from the site determines its porosity. The presence of such a defect reduces the quality of the diamond.
5. Poor quality of edge polishing . No polishing marks should be visible on the surface of polished diamond facets under 6x magnification. Scratches left after polishing indicate poor polishing and reduce the diamond's reflectivity and brilliance. On the polished edges of a diamond, sometimes there is a burn in the form of dullness and tiny dark spots or a coating with a matte tint. These imperfections also reduce the shine of the diamond.
6. Large culet. Typically, a culet is applied to a diamond when there is a minor chip on the tenon. Its size should be no more 2% diameter A diamond with a large culet has a dark spot in the depth, which is a cutting defect.
7. Additional edge - it is a small facet cut into the diamond. Most of the additional edges are located near the girdle, in the vicinity of the crown or culet. They may be applied by mistake or to remove a small inclusion or damage to the diamond.
8. Picked diamonds - cut diamonds that have a large number of internal defects in the form of dark and light single inclusions and cracks of various sizes and their combinations, located in any zone.
In world practice, diagrams are used to evaluate diamonds. identity. These are special graphic sketches made according to certain rules, schematically reproducing the picture of internal and external defects of the stone, observed at 10x magnification. In accordance with the requirements for their preparation, they accurately reflect the number, type and location of inclusions and external flaws in the stone and approximately their size. Vices are indicated by symbols generally accepted throughout the world. Identity diagrams are required in any modern diamond certificates.
A stone that looks like a diamond is called " Moissonite", for example, silicon carbide. In nature, it is found extremely rarely in the form of inclusions in meteorite substances. Moissonite differs from diamond in being less hard and dense, so weighing the stone is enough to recognize it (most diamond testers identify it as a diamond). Its production is organized in the West. Experts believe that some of the diamonds sold in Russia are moissanites (counterfeits).
Emerald - the green variety of beryl is beryllium aluminosilicate (Be 3 A1 2). Hard (7.5 units) and brittle stone of grassy green color. Glass luster, density 2.75 g/cm 3 . The color of emerald is usually due to a slight admixture of chromium or trivalent vanadium. Transparent, pure emeralds of a deep green color, without defects, are especially highly valued (more expensive than diamonds).
The world's largest emerald crystal was found in Brazil in 1974 (28.2 kg).
In 1830, an emerald deposit was discovered in the Urals, which, together with the African emerald belt and Colombian emerald deposits, is one of the three largest in the world. According to experts, the explored reserves of emeralds at the Malysh century-old deposit amount to over 61 thousand kg, their value is estimated at $900-1000 million at current world market prices. In addition to emeralds, alexandrites and phenakites are mined at the Malyshevskoye deposit. The ore-bearing zone of the deposit stretches for 25 km and is 2 km wide. For the period 1831-1922. 20 tons of emeralds, about 2 tons of alexandrite and 3 tons of phenacite were mined.
In the second half of the 50s. XX century emerald deposits began to be developed in Zimbabwe, small but of good quality.
South Africa - only 5% emeralds are suitable for cutting, the rest are too light or cloudy for cabochon cutting.
In the second half of the 70s. In the 20th century, Zambian emeralds appeared on the market.
There are transparent, translucent and opaque emeralds. Emeralds are divided into five color groups: dark green, normal green, medium green, light green and greenish (light). Pale emeralds are not highly valued. Yellowish and bluish-blue shades of color are due to impurities.
Emerald is one of the most valuable expensive jewelry stones. Emerald is used in expensive products, often in combination with diamonds. It usually has a stepped (emerald cut) cut.
Ruby (red yakhont) and sapphire - The hardest stones after diamond are varieties of noble corundum. In terms of chemical composition, corundum is alumina - aluminum oxide A1 2 0 3. Pure corundum is colorless. Its color is given by minor impurities of other minerals (chromium, iron). Red corundums are called rubies. One of the most highly prized shades of red is the so-called pigeon's blood - a red color with a slightly purple tint. The luster is glassy to diamond, hardness 9 on the Mohs scale, density 4.0 g/cm 3 . Completely transparent, defect-free red or dark red rubies over 1 carat are extremely rare and highly valued. Large rubies are much less common than diamonds. Over the past three centuries, more than 300 diamonds weighing more than 200 carats have been found, and several similar rubies have been found.
Ruby deposits are located in Burma, Thailand, India, Sri Lanka, and Tanzania. Natural rubies almost always contain inclusions, cracks, and almost always they have differences in color (in shade, zonality of distribution).
Sapphire. Industrial deposits are located in Australia, Burma, Sri Lanka, Thailand, China. Kashmir sapphires (India), which have an intense cornflower blue color, often with a silky tint, are most valued. Based on color, sapphires are divided into three groups: /bright blue, normal -blue and medium blue; light blue. Sapphire is valued lower than ruby. Under artificial light, sapphires, like other blue stones, change color. Doublets are often used to imitate natural sapphires: the top of the stone is made of natural sapphire, which is glued along the girdle plane to the base of a blue synthetic sapphire.
Alexandrite - the most valuable variety of chrysoberyl (BeA1 2 0 4), it is characterized by a weak “ a game » light in normal daylight and a remarkable color change in artificial light. Ural alexandrites are bluish-green in color (but not very large and not as pure), while stones from Ceylon are a deep olive green in color and can reach sizes of 20 carats. Alexandrite got its name from the Russian Tsar Alexander II, on whose birthday this stone was discovered. Alexandrite has noticeable pleochroism: the lowest, average and highest refractive indices correspond to violet-red, orange-yellow and emerald green colors. All of these colors are clearly distinguishable, especially the first and third, resulting in strikingly beautiful red and green highlights on the faceted alexandrite.
Noble jadeite It is part of a large and diverse group of pyroxenes. In terms of chemical composition, jadeite is mainly sodium-aluminum silicate with the formula NaAl(SiO 3) 2. Refractive index 1.7, density 3.4 g/cm 3 . Hardness on the Mohs scale is almost equal to the hardness of quartz - about 7. Color - white, gray orange, brown, pinkish-violet, black, green. Emerald green jadeite is especially highly prized. The stone is durable, although it is composed of individual short, thick prismatic crystals and has a rather granular texture. When polished, it acquires a characteristic rippled surface, which is due to the unusual hardness of the granular aggregate.
Noble opal - a stone of an amorphous structure, consisting of silica (SiO 2) with minor impurities of iron oxide, alumina, lime and containing 6-10% water. The refractive index of opal is 1.5; semi-vitreous or resinous luster, density 2.0-2.2. Opal is quite soft, with a hardness of 5.5-6.5 on the Mohs scale, so it scratches easily.
At high magnification in an electron microscope, it is clear that noble opal consists of spherical particles of amorphous silica (1700-3500 A in diameter), having such an ordered volumetric arrangement that they create a three-dimensional diffraction grating, which gives the characteristic iridescence. There are two color varieties of opal - white and black. Most often, opal is milky white, but it can also have other colors (from yellow to red). True black opal is very rare, and varieties are usually dark gray or blue in color. High-quality opals shimmer with all the colors of the rainbow; as the opal ages, it becomes covered with cracks and loses its shine and play of light.
Fire opals are cut, but opals are typically cut into flat or convex cabochons. They are used as an insert into jewelry, often with diamonds. Products with opals require careful handling, as stones can absorb some liquids and their appearance can be ruined.
Deposits of precious opal are located in the Czech Republic and Australia. Demantoid is an emerald green andradite - calcium-iron silicate with the family formula - Ca 3 Pe 2 (SiO) 3 the most valuable of pomegranates . It is distinguished from other green gemstones by its high refractive index (1.9), lack of birefringence, and strong dispersion. The best demantoid crystals are emerald green in color, which can vary to pistachio and olive green. The color of the mineral is due to the presence of chromium. The name "demantoid" comes from the Dutch word deten - diamond, since the stone has a diamond luster and fine dispersion. Therefore, diamond cutting of these stones gives good results. The density of demantoid is 3.8 g/cm 3, however, its hardness is only 6.5 on the Mohs scale, so demantoid is used only for making pendants and necklaces, in which the likelihood of damage to the stones is low. Demantoids were found only in the Urals; intense green faceted inserts larger than 1 carat are quite rare, their price reaches $1200-1500 per carat.
Noble spinel is a complex oxide of magnesium and aluminum MgAl 2 O 4. Pure spinel is colorless, but such stones are very rare in nature. Spinel colors are varied and include the full range of light (from blue to red). The refractive index of spinel is 1.7. Spinel can fluoresce, the density of transparent stones is 3.6. Spinel is softer than sapphire and ruby, its hardness is 8 on the Mohs scale. Spinel can be cut with a diamond, step or combined cut, as well as in cabochon form (inserts into rings, earrings). The densely colored red variety of spinel is valued above others. Noble spinel is found in limestones in Ceylon, Burma, and Thailand.
Aquamarine - bluish-green variety beryl , its color range is mainly due to the admixture of iron. The color shades of aquamarine vary from bluish to yellowish-green. The density of aquamarines is 2.7 g/cm 3 . Aquamarines, like other varieties of beryl, are not as rare as emeralds, and since their crystals are large, uniform and transparent, their prices are moderate. Aquamarine deposits are located in the Urals and Siberia. Transbaikalia. Brazil, USA.
Topaz- aluminum fluorosilicate. Topaz is primarily yellow in color and is often completely colorless or very faintly colored. Yellow shades of varying density are often observed, ranging from pale yellow to thick cherry-brown tones, pure blue or pale green stones are found, red or pink are extremely rare. Beautiful pink topazes are obtained from Brazilian brown-yellow stones by heating them.
The topaz crystals from deposits in the Urals and Transbaikalia, as well as Brazil, Ceylon, Japan, Africa, the USA, Burma and Madagascar are magnificent.
The stone is very heavy, its hardness on the Mohs scale is 8, and fades in natural light. Topazes are processed preferably in the shape of an oval, sometimes with emerald or diamond cuts, etc.
Moon rock - the only feldspar that firmly holds a high position among precious stones due to the optical effects (beautiful blue radiance) caused by the presence of correctly oriented inclusions.
Control questions.
1. Which jewelry gemstones are stones of mineral origin, unit of measurement and list of stones of this group?
2. Diamond, characteristics, mining methods, value, sales market, etc.
3. What products are made from diamond and where?
4. What rules and technical requirements are used to certify and classify diamonds?
5. By what parameters and groups are diamonds divided?
6. By what principle are diamonds classified into groups according to their color?
7. How is the price of diamonds expressed depending on their color?
8. How are diamonds classified into defective groups, and by what criteria?
9. What groups are diamonds divided into based on geometric parameters?
10. What information does the diamond cipher carry, use an example?
11. Name the internal defects of diamonds.
12. Name the external defects of diamonds.
13. What parameters and what document is used to carry out technical control of diamonds?
14. What are diamond processing defects?
15. What stone is called “Moissanite” and how to distinguish it from a diamond?
16. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of emerald?
17.What are the main technical and operational characteristics of ruby?
18. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of sapphire?
19. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of alexandrite?
20. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of noble jadeite?
21. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of noble opal?
22. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of the demantoid?
23. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of noble spinel?
24. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of aquamarine?
25. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of topaz?
26. What are the main technical and operational characteristics of moonstone?
