Every mother wants her child to have only high-quality toys, but you cannot be sure that the toy is made from hypoallergenic materials. Or you can sew a soft bunny toy with your own hands and decide for yourself what materials it will be made of. Many toys are quite easy to sew, even a beginner can easily handle it. For example, you can sew a bunny for your child.
First, draw a hare pattern on paper and cut it out. Then take any light fabric, you can even take an old T-shirt.
Trace the pattern onto the folded fabric, right sides facing in. Cut, leaving allowances along the edges.
Then pin the fabric with needles and sew along the line. In order to turn it inside out, make a cut on the front side, in the place where the eyes will be.
Turn all seams inside out and straighten.
It is better to stuff the toy with padding polyester. It is not necessary to stuff it tightly so that the toy is soft and pleasant to the touch for the child. Start stuffing the paws first, and then the torso and head.
Now you need to stitch up the incision. The eyes can be made from white felt or any soft fabric.
First, cut out two circles and embroider the eyes with thread. Then we sew the eyes to the toy in a circle. To make the eyes more voluminous, you can put a little synthetic padding inside.
Finally, we embroider the nose, circles on the paws and a cross on the stomach with black thread. It is convenient to embroider with a backward stitch.
This is how funny the bunny turned out. Delight your kids more often with new toys at no cost.
Fluffy Easter bunny. Sewing from fur with ears using the dry felting technique. Master class from the author - Irina Shcherbakova Irentoys
To create this bunny we will need:
- fur (I have plush with a pile of about 13 mm);
- eyes 12 mm;
- O-shaped cotter pin - 2 pcs. or T-shaped - 1 pc.;
- washers for cotter pins;
- disk with a diameter of 20 mm - 2 pcs;
- felting wool to match the fur and some dark wool;
- needles for felting (No. 36, 38, 40);
- scissors;
- nylon thread for tightening;
- glue;
- pastel.
The rabbit pattern is given below, but since I didn’t have one at first, I had to sculpt the bunny from plasticine.
Then take the pattern onto tracing paper, transfer it from tracing paper to paper and bring it to fruition.
Here is the pattern. It shows letters that can be transferred to the fur to avoid confusion. The arrow indicates the direction of the pile. Paired parts must be mirrored.
We transfer the pattern to the fur, according to the direction of the pile. We cut out the parts, not forgetting about the allowances (about 7 mm) for the seams.
First we sew the darts on all the parts of the head. All seams are made using a fine back stitch.
Now it's time to sew the head parts together. The pattern has letters for this purpose. First we sew the side symmetrical parts (segment AB). Then we sew in a small part of the chin (segments BV and VB).
This is what happens. Now it’s the turn of the top of the head.
We stitch (segments AG and GA) and turn them inside out through the remaining hole.
Important! If your material frays along the edge, then you need to coat the edges with PVA glue diluted with water 1:1. In my case, the base of the fur is very strong, dense and not friable, so I don’t do this.
Stuff tightly.
Before sewing up the head, insert a cotter pin into it according to the diagram. Sew up the head with a hidden seam.
We do the same with the details of the body. First we sew the darts, then we sew the parts according to the indicated letters, leaving an opening for turning. Having turned it inside out, we put it aside and return to the head.
Using a strong thread (I have a nylon thread) in two layers we tighten the eyes. We insert the needle into the place of the darts on the sections AG and GA of the upper part of the head. Then we insert the needle next to this place 7 mm towards the back of the head. We remove the needle in the place where the fastener is located. Tighten and tie.
Let's start grooming the rabbit. We leave a uniform short pile on the entire muzzle at the front, with a smooth transition to a long pile at the back.
We trimmed the cheeks and the lower part and we see that a mouth has appeared, which also needs to be tightened. To tighten, insert a needle and thread into point B, then into the place where the eye was tightened, then into the place of attachment. We do the same with the other end of the thread.
I took transparent eyes and painted them with dark brown acrylic. In places where the darts on the top part coincide with the side parts, eyes will be sewn in. We find these points and mark them with pins. Checking the symmetry of the pins.
We sew an eyelet into this place. Behind the eye, towards the top of the head, we also cut off the pile.
We coat the knots of threads from tightening and from sewing on the eyes with glue. Cut it off with scissors.
We insert a fastening pin with a head into the body blank (at point E). We put a disk and washer on the cotter pin. We tighten, or rather wedge, the cotter pin with thin-nose pliers.
To the same twisted cotter pin we fasten a nylon thread in two folds to tighten the body. We thread the ends of this thread into the needle and draw out the bodies from below at point G, leaving a small distance between the ends of the threads for further tightening.
Pour in granulate. We stuff it with padding polyester and sew it up with a hidden seam.
The final step for the sewn part will be tightening the body.
The result is a blank that is simple and which we will complicate with added parts. Go.
Take two tufts of wool for the ears. Using a coarse needle, shape the approximate shape of the ear.
Let's try it on, taking into account that the ear will shrink by a third. We work the surface with a thin needle, forming the bends of the ear.
Except for the lower fluffy part, which will fall against the head, the entire ear is completely sanded. We try it on, fixing it with pins.
It's the turn of the front paws. We take the same amount of wool for each. We begin to form a paw out of wool with a fluffy end to roll onto the body. The fluffy end should point upward.
On the paws we work on the fingers with a needle. Try it on, securing it with pins.
Click to enlarge the rabbit or hare.
Some explanations on sewing from patterns: 1. Along the upper pattern, triangles are added there - allowances so that when turning the parts made of dense fleecy material do not puff up. You need to cut out 2 pieces for the body and head and 4 pieces for the ears. The sewn and stuffed parts (the direction of stuffing is shown by arrows) must be connected to the letters indicated on the pattern
2. according to the bottom pattern, then part 6-6-4, then sewn into the back of the rabbit’s head, with a tapering angle towards the back. Part 6-6-5 - in the front of the head, at an angle of 5 to the nose. etc. All parts are numbered along the edges, due to which you can understand how they are located.
For convenience, I am posting both articles here:
And now our advice:
First of all prepare your workplace. An immutable rule: the light should fall from the left side. There should be nothing unnecessary on the table at which you will work.
It is advisable that the table surface is not polished. It is better to cover it with white rough paper.
Place tools on the right and samples and instructions on the left. It is good if you prepare a waste basket in advance, then the workplace will be clean all the time, which also creates a good work spirit.
TOOLS:
To work you will need the following tools:
- awl;
- ruler;
- pliers;
- pencil;
- scissors;
- pattern cutter;
- needles;
- iron;
- threads;
- cardboard;
- shreds;
- tracing paper;
- wire;
- copy paper.
- penknife;
Awl will be needed for piercing workpieces.
Pliers will be useful for giving the desired bend to the wire frame.
Needles we need different ones. It is good to sew on beady eyes with a very thin needle. The parts of the toy are sewn together with a medium needle. (A darning needle is not suitable because its eye gets stuck in the fabric.) A large needle is useful for working with fluffy threads.
Needles must be in the pincushion. If you are not working with a needle, immediately stick it into the needle bar so you don’t have to look for it later and, most importantly, don’t get pricked.
Scissors must be sharp and of different sizes. Small rounded scissors (nail scissors) are good for cutting out round shapes, while medium scissors are good for cutting fabric.
MATERIAL FOR TOYS.
Any unnecessary scraps, old felt hats, and worn woolen items will be useful for making. As for cotton fabric, then, of course, it is better if the fabric is new - bright and strong.
Cardboard patterns for can be made from candy boxes or shoes.
Wire It is better to use copper. It bends easily and is cut with simple scissors.
Braid and lace, buttons and beads for eyes can be found in any home. And so that the button becomes the desired color, it can be painted with nitro paint. It's good if the button has a leg.
HOW TO DYE A BUTTON.
We attach two buttons or beads to the ends of the wire. We bend the wire. Dip the buttons into a can of paint. We take it out, let the paint drip off and hang it to dry.
PADDING.
It is best to stuff the toy with industrial cotton wool, which is easier to work with than medical wool. You can use scraps of unnecessary shreds or padding polyester.
THREAD.
It works well with white and black threads No. 40. Red floss is suitable for mouths. Bangs, braids, manes, and ponytails can be made from wool or artificial threads.
HOW TO WORK WITH PATTERNS.
In the “design - toy” section (or by the ““ tag) drawings of soft toy patterns are given. But you need to get your pattern. Print out our patterns or redraw them on tracing paper, and then transfer the pattern onto cardboard using carbon paper. If you don’t have carbon paper on hand, you can make such paper yourself. To do this, the back side of the tracing paper must be shaded with a soft, simple pencil.
Some patterns in the “toys” section have been reduced in size. To enlarge the pattern to its natural size, you need to draw it into squares with a side of 1 cm, and then draw a grid with a square side of 2 cm and redraw the pattern into it square by square.
After the pattern drawing is transferred to cardboard, carefully cut it out with scissors. Keep the patterns in separate envelopes, as they may still be useful to you.
Then take the desired fabric and iron it well. Place the ironed fabric face down on the table. Place a cardboard pattern on top and trace it along the outline. For light fabric we use a simple pencil, for dark fabric - a light one. It is better not to use chalk, as it creates a wide outline that can distort the pattern.
You need to cut out the parts of the toy not along the contour (except in special cases), but slightly backing away from the edge to leave room for the seams.
For children for a holiday (birthday, New Year). We made a beautiful plush bunny from a yellow viscose napkin.
To work with the toy, I needed seven days of time, as well as materials and tools: paper for making a template, thread, needle, filler (cotton wool), black and beige leather fabric, translucent multi-colored tape, glue and a brown bead.
To sew such a rabbit, you first need to find a pattern for it. A sample can be selected on the Internet and divided into separate components - details:
Now I take both head pieces and cut them apart.
I divide the details of the head and ears into three component parts, add the forehead and the back of the head to them, and, pinning these samples to the fabric, cut out the details taking into account the allowance:
I decided to make the detail of the beige muzzle, which should be under the nose of the future rabbit, wider in order to make the toy’s head larger.
Now I take the ear parts (the leftmost part is the back one, and the middle and rightmost part are the front ones):
I need to sew these parts, and first I start sewing the front parts of the ears:
I sew the resulting parts of the front sides of the ears with the parts of the back sides and fill them with cotton wool. From two side parts of the head, a long rectangular part of the forehead and nose (I will complement it with a second rectangular part that will pass through the back of the head), and from a part of the muzzle I sew a head for a future toy. And then I cut out eyes from black leather fabric and glue them to it:
I fill the resulting head with cotton wool and cut out a nose detail from beige leather fabric, which I then glue to the craft:
This is how the resulting toy head looks from the side:
Next I start sewing the body and neck. First I sew the neck piece:
I sew the resulting neck part to the body, and then sew the upper part of the body parts:
Moving on to sewing the parts of the rabbit’s paws, I attach two more (halved) paw parts to them from the inside and sew them together (so that in the end we get not two paws, but four):
Having sewn the paws, I turn the craft right side out and fill it with cotton wool:
Now you can sew the head part to the body part:
From yellow fabric I cut out two parts to make up the ponytail:
I sew a short tail from these parts and fill it with cotton wool:
I sew the resulting tail to the toy, and then decorate its neck with a multi-colored ribbon (I tie a bow at the back):
Fur keychains have long become not only the highlight of fashion shows, they have stepped “into the people” and quickly gained particular popularity among the female population. Who would refuse a cute furry animal? After all, he is so cute and fluffy!
Do-it-yourself rabbit keychain made of fur - pattern, mk
Of course, it is easier and faster to buy a ready-made fur keychain, but if you are inspired by the idea and find suitable fur and free time, we suggest you sew your own keychain in the shape of a rabbit from faux fur. For a keychain, in addition to fur, it is advisable to purchase a metal carabiner. The figurine is 15 cm high. A piece of fur (corduroy, knitwear, plush or fleece) should be 35 cm long and 45 cm wide.
To work you will need:
- Natural or artificial fur (35/45 cm)
- A piece of leather or leatherette 6 cm long, 1 cm wide for a loop for a carabiner.
- 2 buttons for eyes.
- Pink threads for the mouth.
- Scissors, threads to match the color of the fur.
- Sintepon or cotton wool for stuffing.
Pattern number 1.
Enlarging the pattern. Let me remind you: the length from the top of the head (point D) to the back point (point O) will be approximately 15 cm. We look at the letters - all the letters indicate the points where the parts combine. That is, for example, the neck of a rabbit: the BG segment should be combined with the BG segment on the rabbit's head.
On pattern number 1 we see: head - 2 parts, back - 2 parts, ear - 4 parts.
Pattern number 2.
On pattern number 2: the figure’s forehead is 1 piece, the lower part of the abdomen is 2 pieces.
We transfer the paper pattern to the fabric: pin it with tailor’s pins, not forgetting to add another 0.8-1 cm to the paper pattern for allowances. In the figure, 2 ears are located on a common pattern, and 2 ears are located separately - this means that the inner ears can be made not from fur, but from knitwear, fleece, and so on.
Next: we sew the undercut GHG from the wrong side, as well as the undercut JIJ on the forehead of our workpiece. We also decorate the ears: we fold the 4 parts of the ears, front to front, and stitch them, leaving the top of the ears unstitched. We will stuff the ear with padding polyester through the top. We stuffed it with padding polyester (lightly) and sewed up the cut by hand, hiding the unstitched edge.
We sew the ears with a cut (DE) to one and the other part of the head. Only then do we sew up the back of the head (AB). Next, we need to sew the bunny's forehead to the head. We combine all the points of the forehead and head, sew as shown by the arrows in the figure. Don't forget to insert a piece of leather into the top for a loop under the carabiner.
Then we sew up the dart on the rabbit's belly. We combine the parts of the back and abdomen, pin and stitch.
We sew the head to the body, leaving an unsewn section - at the end we will stuff the entire body with padding polyester through it.
We stuff it with padding polyester and manually sew up the hole with a hidden seam.
If your fur begins to fall out at the edges, coat it with regular PVA glue diluted with water (1 part glue / 1 part water).
