We knit a beautiful sleeve roll. Master Class. Master class - crocheting sleeves from the armhole Set-in sleeves crocheted from bottom to top

Perhaps, set-in sleeves of all varieties found in sewing can be knitted on knitting needles: long or short; narrowed or, conversely, widened downwards; straight (tubular) or lantern-shaped; with cuffs or lapels and many others.

Sleeves can be made not only from the bottom up from the wrist - the most common way, but also from the side, from the seam of the sleeve (transverse knitting direction).

To knit set-in sleeve You can also do it from top to bottom (from a high point of the edge), but this is not entirely convenient.

Let's get acquainted with knitting a set-in sleeve, narrowed downwards.

Calculation and knitting of sleeves to the end

The calculation is faster to do for half a sleeve. Count the number of loops in the narrowest and widest parts of the sleeve:
3 p.x10 cm = 30 p. (Pg=3p.);
3 p.x18 cm=54 p.

Determine the difference (in loops) between the wide and narrow part of the sleeve:

54 p.-30 p.= 24 p.

Measure the distance from the beginning of the flare on the sleeve to the beginning of the collar (34 cm) and divide this number by 24 (the difference is in the loops).

34 cm: 24 = 1.4 cm.

Count the number of edges in 1.4 cm, in our example there are 3 of them, which corresponds to 6 rows. Therefore, to widen the sleeves, you need to add 1 loop in every 6th row.

Let's look at how best to do this. Cast on the required number of stitches on the knitting needles (30 stitches x 2 = 60 stitches), knit 4 cm in garter stitch and go to the main pattern.

Knit 2-4 rows and make the first addition: at the beginning of the front row, remove the selvedge and, having made a yarn over (toward you), knit a row, at the end of it, in front of the edging, throw on another yarn over.

In the next purl row, knit the yarn over with knit stitches behind the back wall. Continue knitting, making similar increases on both sides of the sleeve in every 6th row, until there are 108 loops on the knitting needle (54 sts x 2 = 108 sts).

In order not to lose count, mark each time with a colored thread or pin a pin to the row in which you made an addition. These marks will also be useful when making the second sleeve, so do not remove them until you have knitted both sleeves.

Calculation and knitting of sleeve cap

To calculate and knit an okat, it is most advisable to use a technique developed by practice. Whatever yarn you use and whatever number of needles you knit from, this technique gives fairly accurate results. Depending on the knitting density, only the number of calculation numbers changes: the looser the fabric, the fewer there are. Let's take a look at this calculation.

Divide the number of loops in segment AB into 3 equal parts (54 stitches: 3 = 18 stitches). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups.

Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos, with the first half into threes, the second into twos (3+3+ 3+2 + 2 + 2+2=17), add the remainder to the first number (3+1 = 4 ). Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (18 units); loops of the 3rd part - into triplets (3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3= 18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first figure, counting from the high point of the circle (point O).

Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Now you can start knitting the okat.

At the beginning of the front row of the 1st part (point B), fasten 4 loops in a row and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and at the beginning of the purl row also fasten 4 loops. Then continue casting off stitches at the beginning of each row (knit or purl) until you have reduced 18 stitches on both sides of the sleeve.

The first third of the loops of the 2nd part (18 sts: 3 = 6 sts) decrease 1 loop at the beginning and end of each front row. Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but every other row. Decrease the last third (6 stitches) in the same way as the first.

Fasten the loops of the 3rd part according to calculation in exactly the same way as in the 1st part: either at the beginning of the front row, or at the beginning of the purl row. When there are 6 loops left on the knitting needle (of which 3 loops on the right side of the okat plus 3 loops on the left), close them in a row.

A method of simultaneous knitting of paired parts. In this case, both parts are knitted at once (they are on the same knitting needle), but from two balls. It is appropriate to warn that with this design it is not very convenient to apply knitting to the pattern and, in addition, in case of an error, you have to unravel both parts at once.

Proponents of this method give the following argument: the parts in this case are absolutely identical in knitting density. In our opinion, indeed, one of the acceptable mistakes is different knitting densities of parts of the same model, but it is better to achieve flawless execution not with the help of such a technique, but with training. Imagine that you managed to make the sleeves the same using the simultaneous knitting method. What about the shelves? These two large parts are too inconvenient to knit at the same time from two balls.

If the sleeves are made with a bouclé pattern, then gradually incorporate the loops added to widen them into the pattern. If the pattern contains elements of stockinette knitting (for example, strands or slipped loops on the purl stitch), then knit new loops on the front side of the work, purling them, creating a continuation of the background from them, then the sleeve seam will be soft and neat.
When knitting set-in narrow sleeves, a certain pattern is observed, which is advisable to take into account. Noticed: if the arm length measurement is 52-60 cm (with normal fullness of the arms), then increases on the sleeve have to be made in every 6th row.
If, with the same fullness of the arms, the length measure is 48-51 cm (short arms), then a different rhythm of additions is necessary - once in the 6th row, once in the 4th. For full and short arms (48-51 cm), loops on the sleeve should be added every 4th row. Knowing this, you can avoid calculating the additions according to the pattern, but knit the sleeves taking into account these practical conclusions.
When knitting a sleeve to the end, it can turn out like this: the number of loops due to additions corresponds to its widest part, and the length of the sleeve is insufficient (for example, you need to knit another 5-6 cm). In this case, continue knitting in a straight line until you reach the desired length, but keep in mind that the second sleeve must be done in exactly the same way.
Before you start knitting an okat, it is recommended to try on an unfinished sleeve: baste it, put it on your hand and check whether it is the length and width required. Once you are sure that the work is done correctly, continue knitting.
It is important from the very beginning of training to pay attention Special attention on knitting density. It is necessary to make all parts with the same density; If this does not work yet, then there is only one way out: the part must be unraveled and tied again.

★☆★☆★←❤→★☆★☆★

Calculation and knitting of the sleeve to the edge (Fig. 173).

The calculation is faster to do for half a sleeve. Count the number of loops in the narrowest and widest parts of the sleeve:

3 p. X 10 cm = 30 p. (Pg = 3 p.);

3 p. X 18 cm = 54 p.

Determine the difference (in loops) between the wide and narrow part of the sleeve: 54 p. - 30 p. = 24 p.

Measure the distance from the beginning of the flare on the sleeve to the beginning of the collar (34cm) and divide this number by 24 (the difference is in the loops). 34cm: 24 ~1.4 cm. Count the number of edges in 1.4cm, in our example there are 3 of them, which corresponds to 6 rows. Therefore, to widen the sleeves, you need to add 1 loop in every 6th row. Let's look at how best to do this.

Cast on the required number of loops on the knitting needles (30 p. X 2 = 60 p.), knit 4 cm in garter stitch and go to the main pattern. Knit 2 - 4 rows and make the first addition: at the beginning of the front row, remove the edge yarn and, having made a yarn over (toward you), knit a row, at the end of it, in front of the edge row, throw on another yarn over. In the next purl row, knit the yarn over with knit stitches behind the back wall.

Continue knitting, making similar increases on both sides of the sleeve in every 6th row, until there are 108 loops on the knitting needle (54 sts X 2 = 108 sts).

Let's take a look at this calculation.

Divide the number of loops in segment AB (Fig. 174) into 3 equal parts (54 p. : 3 = 18 p.). If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups. Divide the loops of the 1st part into threes and twos, with the first half into threes, the second into twos (3+3+3+2+2+2+2=17), add the remainder to the first number (3+1=4 ).

Divide the loops of the 2nd part into units (18 units); loops of the 3rd part - into triplets (3+3+3+3+3+3 = 18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first figure, counting from the high point of the circle (point O).

Apply the calculation results to the pattern.

Let's start knitting the okat.

Knitting technique

The edge of the knitted fabric turns out vertical if it is knitted straight, that is, no decreases or increases are made (see photo 1).

The edge of the fabric turns out to be inclined if the same number of loops is reduced or added. On our sample (see photo 2) in every 2nd r. one loop is decreased. A concave rounding is formed if the loops are closed in order of decreasing their number (see photo 3). For this sample, close 5,4,3,2 and 1 loop in sequence.

A convex rounding is formed if the loops are closed in order of increasing their number (see photo 4). In this case, 1,2,3,4 and 5 loops are closed in sequence. The edge of the product is horizontal if a certain number of loops are closed in one row (see photo 5).

Rolled sleeves

A sleeve with a collar is slightly narrower than a sleeve with a straight top edge. In the lower part of the sleeve with a bevel, as a rule, a smaller number of loops are added. When the calculated sleeve width is reached, knitting of the okat begins.

It consists of a concave round, a bevel, a convex round and ends with a horizontal edge with closed loops (see diagram 10). The height of the collar depends on the depth of the armhole and the width of the sleeve. In order for your knitted piece to match the pattern drawing given in the magazine, you must adhere to the specified knitting density.

The puff sleeves are strongly gathered in the shoulder area. Instead of a rounded edge, such a sleeve ends with a straight edge (see diagram 11).

Here are some more ways to knit a sleeve:

Correctly knitting a sleeve from the shoulder line is a difficult matter. Why is there not a single sleeve knitting pattern?

We all have different clothing sizes and heights. It is clear that for size 52 with a height of 155 cm and for size 42 with a height above 170 cm you need to knit differently. And it’s not about the volume, but about the length and width of the sleeve. And of course, the density of the knitting pattern, the size of the threads and knitting needles influences. Well, no, so there is no consensus on how to knit the armhole.

We will present several patterns for knitting sleeve caps, which have been tested by craftswomen and from them you can easily choose the one that suits your build, knitting density, and is simply more understandable to you.

1 way.

Cast off at the beginning, 4 stitches on each side. - 1 time, 3 pets. - 1 time, Then in every second row close three together. Closing the loops can be done after the first two stitches have been knitted. More precisely, we remove one edge, knit the second loop with the front one - on the front side of the product, the purl - on the wrong side of the product. And then three together. This way the decreases will not be visible, and the edge will be smooth without steps. We close three together on each side until about 12 cm remains on the knitting needle. We close 4 loops - 3-4 times. Cast off the remaining stitches at once. The correspondence between the width and length of the product is adjusted using threads.

Method 2.

Divide all loops by 2. For example, 100 loops. 100/2 = 50 sleeve consists of two halves (left and right) - then again into two. 50/2 = 25 is the lower part of the okat and the upper one. — Then we divide 25 into 3 parts (9+8+8). We close the 1st part at once, the 2nd part into 2-3 groups (for bevel) (5+3, 4+4), the third part we close 2 at a time, 1 at a time, every other row at 1, depending on the height of the edge. We close the second 25 loops in the reverse order. I learned this method about 7 years ago, and it always turns out great.

3 way

Knitting a sleeve cap. Knit the sleeve up to the armhole level. Count the number of loops across the sleeve width at the armhole level and divide them by 2 (1/2 the sleeve width at the armhole level). Divide the resulting number of loops into 3 equal parts, for example 54 loops: 3 parts = 18 loops. If there is a remainder, then attach it to the 1st part. Next, divide the loops of each part into groups. Divide the loops of the first part - the first half into threes and the second into twos (3+3+3+2+2+2+2=17), add the remainder to the first number (3+1=4). Divide the loops of the second part into units (18 units); Loops of the 3rd part into triplets (3+3+3+3+3+3=18). If there is a remainder, add it to the first number, counting from the high point of the circle.

Apply the result to the pattern. Now knit like this: at the beginning of the front row, cast off 4 loops in a row and knit the row to the end. Turn the knitting and at the beginning of the purl row also bind off 4 loops. Then continue casting off stitches as calculated at the beginning of each knit and purl row until you have reduced 18 stitches on both sides of the sleeve.

For the first third of the stitches of the 2nd part (18 stitches: 3 = 6 stitches), decrease 1 stitch at the beginning and end of each knit row.

Cut the second third (6 loops) in the same way, but not in each front row, but every other row.

Decrease the last third (6 stitches) like the first. Close the loops of the 3rd part according to the calculation in the same way as in the first part, at the beginning of each front row and at the beginning of each purl row. When there are 6 loops left on the knitting needle (i.e. 3 loops on the right side of the sleeve and 3 loops on the left side of the sleeve), close in a row.

4 way

I knit in short rows, and then close the okat completely in one row. And it is better to do this on needles of a smaller number. Then (if it is not a dropped shoulder) the edge will sit as if sewing. So, short rows for the sleeves.

First, we determine the width, for example, 72p., then approximately the height of the edging - about 30r. To begin, close 1x3p, 2x2p on both sides. =58p. Then in every 2nd (or in every 4th, if the height is more than our approximate 30 rows) when knitting a row, we do not knit the last 2 stitches, wrap the thread behind the 2nd stitch, turn the part over and repeat in the same way in subsequent rows .

You definitely need to count or write down the rows so that it turns out symmetrically with the second sleeve. It's better to knit 2 at the same time. Method 5 I usually knit sleeves like this: I close 3 loops 1 time, 2 times 2, 12 times one, then again 2 times 2, once 3, 1 time four and then all the other loops. This is if we knit with 2.5-3 needles. If the knitting needles and threads are thicker, then I decrease it like this: 1 time 3, 1 time 2, 9 times one at a time, 2 times 2, 1 time 3, and all the rest last.

This way you always get a beautiful, even pellet. Method 6 To knit a sleeve cap well, I came up with the following technique. I draw a life-size sleeve pattern on tracing paper and apply it to the knitted and processed back panel.

I emphasize - for processed, i.e. dampened (washed), dried, ironed. This is so that in the future the knitted sleeve matches the pattern. So, I move the sleeve pattern from tracing paper along the back panel and choose how the design should lie. The main signs of quality: complete repetition of the report at the very top of the rim and symmetry of the pattern. The canvas is clearly visible through the tracing paper.

You finally decide for yourself and fix the pattern in the chosen position. Then I draw with a pen along the edge of the edging on the pattern, repeating the patterns of the canvas. It immediately becomes clear how to make decreases. I hope I made it clear. It goes without saying that the pattern of the product must be thought out and calculated in advance. I only make the sleeve in full size.

Adviсe:

It is important from the very beginning of training to pay special attention to the density of knitting. It is necessary to make all parts with the same density; if this does not work yet, then there is only one way out: the part must be unraveled and tied again
Before you start knitting an okat, it is recommended to try on an unfinished sleeve: baste it, put it on your hand and check whether it is the length and width required. Once you are sure that the work is done correctly, continue knitting.
When knitting set-in narrow sleeves, a certain pattern is observed, which is advisable to take into account. Noticed: if the arm length measurement is 52-60 cm (with normal fullness of the arms), then increases on the sleeve have to be made in every 6th row. If, with the same fullness of the arms, the length measure is 48-51 cm (short arms), then a different rhythm of additions is necessary - once in the 6th row, once in the 4th. With full and short arms (48-51 cm), loops on the sleeve should be added every 4th row. Knowing this, you can avoid calculating the additions according to the pattern, but knit the sleeves taking into account these practical conclusions.
When knitting a sleeve to the end, it can turn out like this: the number of loops due to additions corresponds to its widest part, and the length of the sleeve is insufficient (for example, you need to knit another 5-6 cm). In this case, continue knitting in a straight line until you reach the desired length, but keep in mind that the second sleeve must be done in exactly the same way.
If the sleeves are made with a bouclé pattern, then gradually incorporate the loops added to widen them into the pattern. If the pattern contains elements of stockinette knitting (for example, strands or slipped loops on the purl stitch), then knit new loops on the front side of the work, purling them, creating a continuation of the background from them, then the sleeve seam will be soft and neat.
You can also draw a sleeve pattern, apply it to an already knitted part - a front or back (if the sleeve is knitted with the same pattern) and calculate each row, writing down in detail where to add and where to subtract. And then knit according to this record.
- The height of the armhole and sleeve cap should not be the same. The sleeve cap is slightly larger! If you make the same lengths, then the sleeve will be cut. This is because the armhole for the sleeve is more straight, and the hem is curved. In general, there are tricks when sewing in a sleeve. The knitwear is movable and needs to be pulled in some places (from above), and in some places, on the contrary, it needs to be gathered (from the sides). The type of sleeve will depend on how the okat is knitted and how it is sewn.
- 2) The shoulder bevel is done the same way on the front and back. In reality, the bevel on the front should be 1-2 cm more than on the back.
- 3) The neckline on the back is often made very narrow and small, as a result of this you should not forget about the required depth and width of the neckline. If these mistakes were made, then subsequent flaws are likely: the shoulder seams will begin to “run” back (the reason is a very short armhole on the back and an incorrect shoulder bevel), the jacket or blouse will begin to lag behind the neck and the entire product will begin to “run” back ( the reason is a narrow and small neckline on the back).

Now the back and front of the product are already ready, and you need to move on to the next part of the work - knitting the sleeves, however, sometimes knitting the product begins with the sleeve.

Sleeves come in a wide variety of varieties: short and long, straight and tapered, plain and multi-colored, with ruffles and slits. The sleeve must first match general style products, be it a sweater, cardigan, cape or other wardrobe items.

There are many ways to perform this detail. For example, you can knit a sleeve from bottom to top or from top to bottom, from left to right and vice versa, and even diagonally - here it’s up to you as you like.

The sleeve can be knitted from the top from the neckline - raglan.

The sleeve can be a separate part of your wardrobe, that is, knitted separately from the main product.

Several sleeve options:

Let's consider the most common traditional sleeve, which can be crocheted or knitted.

How to knit a sleeve with knitting needles

First of all, you need to decide which sleeve is required. This refers mainly to its length and shape. If you have a sleeve pattern, you need to follow it. If not, you can do all the necessary calculations yourself. (Remember that they are only made for half the sleeve, since the other half is completely symmetrical).

Count the number of stitches in the widest and narrowest parts of the sleeve, and also measure the distance from the beginning of the flare. By dividing this distance by the difference in loops, calculate how often you will need to add loops for the bevels. They must be added symmetrically on both sides of the sleeve according to the calculations made - for example, every sixth row.

Loops for bevels by throwing a twisted thread onto a knitting needle (yarn over), but with this option you get holes, albeit small ones. You can lift the loop from the broach of the previous row or by the bow of the loop of the previous row.

You should write down your calculations and do not throw them away after you finish knitting a sleeve; they may be needed for the second one.

Then, get to work. First, an elastic band is knitted - a cuff, 1x1 or 2x2 (that is, in each row, alternate knit and purl loops, one or two, respectively). The height of the cuff depends on your desire, add the first loops for bevels on both sides, and then, following the previously drawn up plan, knit a sleeve of the desired length until you reach

The sleeve roll is performed as follows: the height of the sleeve should be divided into three equal parts and three different rectangles should be built, as shown in the figure below.

The vertices of the triangle divide the edge line into four completely different design lines: concave, flat, convex, horizontal. For each of them, the loops need to be closed differently.

So, the first calculation line is concave, consider the corresponding triangle: there are twenty-one loops at its base, and twenty rows in height. (Since there are twenty rows, we have ten closing groups - each front row). To get a concave line, you first need to close a larger number of loops and gradually reduce this number. The casting order can be as follows: 4, 3, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, 1 (a total of twenty-one stitches).

The next triangle has nine loops at the base and again twenty rows in height. To make the line slanted, you need to close the loops evenly. Cast off one stitch in each knit row (last knit row - no decreases).

The third triangle has 18 loops at the base and the same height. The result should be a convex line, so the closing order is: 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 1, 2, 3, 3, 4.

The last six loops in the fourth part of the okat are closed in one row, which completes the knitting of the sleeve.

After this, the sleeve should be steamed and it is ready for assembly.

Sleeve option and calculation for knitting it:

How to crochet a sleeve

The principle of crocheting a sleeve is the same as knitting, but there are exceptions, for example, when knitting with motifs, Irish lace etc. Another way to knit sleeves is from the armhole.
It’s easier to knit using a ready-made pattern, which you can build yourself, based on your own dimensions and calculations.
You can knit a sleeve either with or without a seam (in the round). Here you also need to remember about adding loops, which are made on the same line (for an aesthetic appearance, and so that the pattern does not go astray).
If the sleeve is made in straight and reverse rows (option with a seam), then it is better to add loops at a distance of 2-3 loops from the edge of the sleeve.

If in a circle, then the principle is the same. But I would advise not to bother and knit the sleeve with a seam.

Adding loops is done by knitting two stitches from one.

Okat. Here we need to close the loops. If you need to decrease one loop (stitch), just knit two stitches together (unfinished stitch). If you need to close several loops, then follow the pattern to save it.

There is an option not to knit at all, but to retreat the required number of decreasing stitches and start knitting the next row, but do not forget to make planned transitions so that you don’t get a “ladder”, you won’t be able to beautifully sew the sleeve to the armhole in the future.

There are patterns when knitting which do not require additional loops; the fabric itself expands due to the pattern.

After the entire sleeve is knitted, it also needs to be steamed and sewn.
That's all the subtleties that can be associated with knitting sleeves. This is not a difficult matter and not at all troublesome, especially if you draw up instructions for yourself in advance on how to knit. Good luck!

When starting to knit a new sweater, every knitter, as a rule, already has an idea of appearance finished product. But you need to determine not only the style, yarn and patterns. It is extremely necessary to approach the issue of patterns very seriously.

Sleeves are the most important detail

After all, if the silhouette on paper is inaccurate, then the details will be very difficult to put together. As for the parts themselves, there are almost never any problems with the main fabrics, but the sleeves should be given special attention.

Variety of models and techniques

There are a huge number of models of knitted clothes with various shapes and sleeve knitting techniques.

And in this article, we will try to figure out what sleeve models exist and how to knit a sleeve.

Sleeve shape

If we talk only about the shape of this part, then the sleeves can be either narrow or wide, straight or flared, long and short. In general, there are a lot of options. But in addition to the form, there is also the style of the product. And it is this style that fully determines how the finished sleeve should look. So, let's figure out what types of sleeves exist.

Sleeve models

Set-in (it is possible to use a lower armhole);
sleeve “without piping line”;
sleeve “with small armhole”;
sleeve “with shoulder straps”;
"raglan";
« bat»;
"flashlight";
"kimono".

Despite the fact that all these styles are similar in structure, the knitting technique for each of them is quite specific. Therefore, I would like to dwell on the review of each model.

Set-in sleeve

This sleeve style can be crocheted or knitted. The main feature is the calculation of the order of decrease in loops when knitting the sleeve cap and the armhole of the main fabrics. For an accurate determination, first, knit a sample of the main pattern and measure the density of the loops. After this, the pattern is transferred to graph paper and all the calculations are made.

We knit a set-in sleeve with knitting needles, usually from the bottom. Therefore, for this part of the work you need to choose light straight knitting needles of the required diameter. When the elastic is knitted to the desired height, the addition of loops begins. The calculations are much simpler here. It is enough to subtract the sum of the stitches of the cast-on row from the number of stitches at the beginning of the lambing of the sleeve. As for the frequency of increases. It is necessary to calculate, based on the density, the number of rows to knit and distribute the additional loops evenly. At the armhole, decreases are made at the very beginning of the row.

Here is the simplest example of decreases:

first, 2 rows: decrease by seven loops;
third, 4 rows: decrease by five loops;
fifth, 8 p.: decrease one loop at a time.

After all the decreases have been made and the required number of rows have been knitted, you need to knit the okat. As a rule, decrease three loops from each edge three times. In the last row, all remaining loops are closed. It is better to do the work wearing an oversleeve.

This type of sleeve can be found in knitting quite often. The hem line of this model is knitted straight, due to the fact that there is no armhole line. Calculations of the increase are made following the example of a stitched sleeve, and for correct joining, large parts are also knitted with straight edges, before the neckline begins to be cut.

Sleeve with shallow armhole

The only difference between this style is that the depth of the armhole and the hem line are narrowed. The rest of the sleeve can be knitted using the basic pattern.

Sleeve with shoulder strap

These sleeves are more often found in products with a pattern of ornaments. “Epaulette” conveys a certain completeness of the pattern itself and the product as a whole. The width of the “epaulet” directly depends on the chosen ornament. The difference between this model and the previous ones is precisely the presence of a “shoulder strap”; it is an addition to the details of the shelf and back. All calculations are no different from the above examples.

We knit this sleeve style both at the top and bottom. If you start knitting from the bottom, then the principle here is the same as when creating a “set-in” sleeve. When the required length is knitted, the lowering of the loops begins. This is usually done through a row, knitting one loop out of two, before and after the edge loop.

When knitting “raglan” on top, it is better to choose circular knitting needles of the required diameter as a tool. The number of loops cast on on top should be a multiple of 6. You also need to take into account the presence of a collar in the product. If it is provided in the product, then you should start knitting from the top with it. If not, then increases along the raglan lines can be made from the very beginning. Knitting is not distributed by 4 knitting needles, but the 5th is the working one.

Raglan sleeves, as a rule, make up a sixth of the total number of loops in the product, the third part is left for large details. Therefore, if the total amount of loops is not a multiple of six, the extra ones need to be distributed between the front and back parts. Adding loops on top is done on all parts at once. Example of a raglan stitch: purl loop, yarn over, two knit stitches, yarn over, purl loop. It should be noted that the yarn over and purl loop are on the front and back pieces, and all other loops are on the sleeve. When the armhole comes to an end, you should knit without increases or decreases (with straight fabric). When the required length is reached, all loops are closed. It is better to do the work wearing oversleeves.

Pullovers with such sleeves are usually knitted from the lower back and front. In rare cases, knitting begins with sleeve elastic. If you start with large pieces, then you need to knit a straight fabric before the start of the armhole. The additions at the beginning of the armhole do not have to be done right away. You can cast on the required number of loops at the beginning of one row and do the same in the next, and this addition can be done in 2-3 times. When knitting a product “from the sleeve”, the sleeve is knitted like a stitch. Then loops are cast on for large parts. Key Feature This style consists of a mirror image of the details. The loops are closed in the order they are cast on. It is better to do the work wearing oversleeves.

The main feature of this type of sleeve is the creation of a tight cuff. A tight cuff is necessary for the flashlight to keep its shape. In this case, the addition of loops occurs evenly, and their total number at the end should exceed the initial set by three or even four times. Only in this case will the “flashlight” turn out magnificent. The required number of loops is calculated based on the density of the thread. After all, if the thread is too soft, the sleeve will simply hang.

First you need to link a sample of work, taking into account the progress of additions. It is better to mark the increases; this will help when working with the second “flashlight” and it is more convenient to do this with colored markers or pins. When making an okata, it is better to use a pattern; this will minimize errors in knitting, and the shape will be correct.

It is also necessary to take into account in the work that the edge of the armhole should be rounded. Depending on how the sleeves are knitted, the curves can be convex or concave. In the first case, there is usually a sequential increase in loops. In the second case, the loops are decreased and closed in the reverse order (5th, 4th, 3rd, etc.). But in addition to this, you also need to take into account the height of the armhole itself, which should coincide with the height of the rim of the “flashlight”. It is better to do the work wearing oversleeves.

Kimono sleeve

This model is one of the simplest in terms of execution technique. She is also without lambing.

For casting on loops initial row First, determine the starting point of the armhole. Then, in several stages, groups consisting of five or more loops are assembled. The number of techniques directly depends on the expected length of the sleeve. We knit on all loops until a height equal to the width of the sleeve is reached. Then the decreases begin. Deductions should be made in the same way as additions, only in reverse order.

Another feature of products with kimono sleeves is the V-shaped neckline. Its knitting usually begins with increases. Increases are made to round the transition of the armhole to the side seam. It is extremely rare that I knit this neckline in accordance with the desired depth.
And, based on this, the beginning of the sleeve is located in the very middle side seam, adding loops here is necessary to round off the place where the side seam goes into the armhole, and then into the sleeve seam. Usually, one loop is added in several rows.

These are not all existing models. In fact, each model of any product is unique. The above are just basic descriptions and notes.

To make the sleeves look beautiful and always neat and, most importantly))), the same - try knitting them from top to bottom from the center of the sleeve, i.e. from the center of the shoulder. At the same time, not only is it convenient to try on the length/width of the sleeve itself, but it remains possible to adjust these essential parameters even after the entire product is finished, because you can always go back and change the dimensions in the right direction!

So, the product is connected. Classic shaped armhole with a rounded bottom edge.

The diagram below shows the general process of how the sleeve will be knitted

For knitting, it will be more convenient to use circular knitting needles and a crochet hook without a thick handle - but this is at your discretion!

Following the pattern,

We start from the center of the shoulder seam (or fold).

Leaving a long tail of the attached thread,

Crochet 1 loop from the center of the shoulder seam

then in opposite directions from this loop we cast on loops in two stages.

As a rule, the width of the upper part of the okat is 8-10 cm for women's models, up to 12 cm for men's and 4-6 cm for children's models. But it all depends on the style of the product and the desired size! To calculate the required number of stitches that need to be cast on at the same time along the top of the okat (according to the diagram above, this is the distance marked “1”), convert this width in cm to your individual knitting density. For example, with a density of 17 stitches in 10 cm (i.e. 1.7 stitches in 1 cm), the generalized number of loops for female model will be 1.7 x 8/10 cm = from 14 to 17 p. You can adjust this value yourself as necessary.

Using a working thread on the left side, bring the required number of loops out of the edge armholes.

Transfer the cast-on stitches onto circular knitting needles

From the initially long tail of the thread left, in the opposite direction from the central loop, cast on from left to right the same number of loops from the edge armholes. In this case, it is more convenient to immediately transfer each cast-on loop to the same circular knitting needles.

All cast-on stitches of the upper part of the okat are on circular knitting needles

Turn the knitting to the wrong side

and knit a purl row. At the same time, if the sleeve is knitted with any pattern, then knit the purl row with the already selected pattern. If the stitch stitch is supposed to be knitted, then this row should be knitted with purl stitches.

Slip the first stitch onto the right needle without knitting,

knit the remaining stitches to the end of the row

The set of loops for the upper part of the okat is completed (according to the diagram above, this is designated “1”).

Knitting the vertical part of the okat.

Turn the knitting right side out. At the beginning of the row, take 1 extra from the edge armhole on the right. loop

Knit the row to the end (or pattern)

At the end of the row, add 1 additional stitch from the edge opening to the left. loop

Turn the knitting to the wrong side. Remove the first loop without knitting, purl the remaining loops (or according to the pattern) until the end of the row.

Turn the knitting to the front side, pick up 1 extra loop on the right, knit the row to the end, at the end of the row pick up 1 extra stitch on the left. loop.

Continue knitting in this way, picking up 1 stitch on each side of the knitting in each front row.

Knit approximately to a height of 2/3 of the total height of the armhole (designated “2” in the diagram above), i.e. to the level where you need to start making additions along the lower edge of the armhole.

Let's start knitting the lower rounded part of the sleeve cap.

To round along the bottom edge (designated “3” in the diagram), we add several loops at a time.

You can calculate the increase yourself, as if you were knitting a sleeve in the usual way and decreasing the loops from the beginning of the armhole. In our case, this is exactly the opposite - adding loops.

For my models, I have determined a convenient formula for increases, which I adhere to in all styles for adults with this type of sleeve - in the finished product it looks beautiful and neat, enough for freedom of movement and applicable in all models.

ADDITIVE FORMULA

Increments in the last 6 rows of knitting are made in each subsequent front row

+ 2 stitches simultaneously on each side of the fabric

+ 3 stitches simultaneously on each side of the fabric

+ 4 (5) stitches simultaneously on each side of the fabric.

In products for newborns and children, these numbers change accordingly for each person. row on + 2 + 2 + 3.

I use this approach based on accumulated experience and it has never let me down - the sleeves “fit” the product perfectly, conveniently and comfortably for the owner of the item!

If you wish, you can try this option of additions, but you can also use your own calculations, for example, increasing the number of rows of additions to 8 or 10 and performing the necessary calculation of your choice!

So, let's add like this

In the 1st row, at the same time, at the beginning of the row, from left to right (against the direction of knitting) on the right, 2 sts.

Knit the row to the end, at the end of the row add 2 sts to the left.

Unfold the knitting, also remove the 1st loop without knitting, knit the remaining loops purl. (or according to the drawing) to the end of the row. Turn the knitting to the front side, pick up 3 stitches at the same time, knit the row to the end, at the end of the row pick up 3 stitches on the left, turn the knitting inside out, removing the first loop not knitted, knit to the end of the row. Unfold the knitting on the face, pick up 4 (5) sts on the right to the point of the side fold (or seam), knit to the end of the row, at the end of the row pick up 4 (5) sts to the point of the side fold (seam).

All. The formation of the sleeve cap is completed - all the loops around the circumference of the armhole are cast on.