Model of a women's sweater knitted from sectional yarn. Jumper for a baby made of sectional knitted yarn. Section-dyed or section-dyed yarn

You can often find that any yarn that is not smoothly dyed is called melange. But not all variegated yarn is melange. One of these variegated threads is section-dyed yarn. In this article I want to focus special attention section-dyed yarn, consider its properties and features of knitting from such yarn.

Knitting from sectionally dyed yarn allows you to make both a variegated and striped fabric, which cannot be said about knitting with melange thread. Knitting from melange yarn allows you to make only a variegated fabric.

To obtain section-dyed yarn, the yarn is dyed after spinning. The color palette, as well as the length of the color segment, may vary. But there is a certain rule: even if the length of the color section is different, the color sequence must always be repeated.

Section-dyed yarn allows needlewomen to create a huge variety of patterns without using many multi-colored balls. But it should be noted that knitting from such yarn is very difficult, because when you start knitting from section-dyed yarn, you often cannot predict what kind of pattern you will end up with. Even knitting a sample will not always help you with this.

According to the length of the color segment, sectionally dyed yarn is divided into:

  • Finely sectioned yarn;
  • Mid-section yarn;
  • Long section yarn.

The short length of the color segments allows you to get a variety of colors when knitting geometric shapes. This yarn behaves unpredictably. It is difficult to replicate a model from a magazine and often produces sloppy spots in the wrong place. The color scheme in symmetrical parts turns out to be asymmetrical; the side seam is clearly visible in the product. When changing the number of loops, the pattern becomes distorted. Randomly scattered spots of color sometimes spoil the silhouette of the product.

Long sections of color segments when knitting make it possible to obtain stripes. This yarn behaves quite predictably.

It should be noted that knitting from the same ball gives a different result in the pattern when crocheting or knitting.

What to look for when buying section-dyed yarn

Firstly, of course, you need to pay attention to the length of the color segment, because the color pattern of the future product largely depends on this. The shorter the color segment, the more colorful the product will be. With long color segments, the product will turn out striped.

When choosing yarn, be sure to consider what you plan to knit with it. Fine-section and medium-section yarn are suitable for small items such as scarves, hats or children's items. Mid-section and long-section yarn will be good for jackets and sweaters, various capes, as well as stoles and shawls.

Secondly, pay attention to the relationships between the color segments in the skein. Various colors in a skein can have different lengths. If preference is given to one color in the ball - it has a longer segment or is repeated more often, then in the product this color will set the tone of the entire product.

Thirdly, it is advisable to purchase section-dyed yarn in large skeins, and also pay attention to the direction of the color change sequence when winding in skeins. All this will allow you to make the transition from skein to skein unnoticeable.

Rules for knitting from section-dyed yarn

You can knit with section-dyed yarn as if you were using regular plain-dyed yarn, without thinking about what pattern you will get in the end. In this case, the pattern can be chaotic, giving the product originality and uniqueness.

But if you want to get a certain pattern, then when knitting you should pay attention to some rules when working and follow them:

  • All balls must be wound in the same color sequence.
  • To eliminate the possibility of pattern distortion in symmetrical pieces, start knitting them from the same color section.
  • In order to obtain the intended color spots in the product, carefully study the length and sequence of alternating color segments.
  • In order to choose a design that is more suitable for the product, knit several samples, starting each with a different color segment. This will help you reduce the risk of ending up with a mismatched pattern ensemble.
  • After you have selected the optimal pattern, you need to adjust the pattern of the product to the pattern repeat. Often the sectional yarn determines the model of the product. Therefore, do not take a product with very complex cut and with predefined color effects. The simplest parts are the rectangular parts of the back, shelves and sleeves.
  • If the calculated width of the parts turns out to be not a multiple of the number of repeats, then slightly narrow or, conversely, widen the part. Try playing with the transfer side seam to adjust the rapport: slightly narrow the back and widen the front. At the same time, do not forget to adjust the armhole too.
  • Often it is the first row that causes a certain difficulty, since it is difficult to adjust the desired turn in the right place. Therefore, it is better to cast on more loops (about 15 - 20 more loops) than needed, and subsequently remove the extra tail.
  • Keep an eye on the color section of each new ball. Start knitting from a new ball with the same color each time, even if it is necessary to remove a whole color repeat.
  • If the thread has a defect in the form of a knot, break, elongation or, conversely, shortening the length of the dyeing segment, then it is better to remove the defective repeat and start with the next one.
  • Minor disruptions in the pattern (approximately 1 – 3 loops) can be compensated by knitting density: knit the loops tighter or looser. Due to the variegation of the canvas, this will not be noticeable.
  • When changing the number of loops when knitting darts, armholes, and necklines, certain difficulties arise. For beginner knitters, it is advisable to take a model with rectangular armholes and necklines. The reduction of the armhole and neckline is made in multiples of the rapport. This allows you to save the pattern. If the neckline turns out to be too wide, it can be adjusted various types finishings, for example, make additional binding, add lace, add a placket, etc.
  • It is better to knit the sleeves rectangular with a width that is a multiple of the pattern repeat.

Prepare circular knitting needles and sectional dyed yarn. We will knit such a wonderful top.

Size: 36-38/ 40-42/ 44-46.

You will need: 350/ 400/ 450 g yarn SMC Cotton Bamboo Batik, color number 00083
2 pairs of circular needles No. 3-4

Patterns and types of loops

Pattern: faces. r. and out. r. elm. according to the scheme. In purl. r. elm. double sts and yarn overs. reception, the remaining p. elm. according to the drawing.

Yarn over extends the rapport by 1 p. in the 2nd row, then by 2 p. in every 2nd row. Elm 1-5th r.. repeat. 3 times 6-13th r. and 4 times 14-21 r. = 61r., repeat. 22-25th r. until the end.

Chrome. p.: at the beginning r. n. 1st p. persons. reception, thread at work, at the end of the river. elm. last p. persons. reception.

Sn. p.: 1 persons. p. in persons r., in purl. r. n. 1 p. purl. reception, thread before work.

Ub. 1 p. at the beginning piz. r.: elm. chrome p.. sn. n. persons reception. 1 person p.. stretch sn. p. through the knitted one.

Ub. 2 p. at the beginning persons r.: elm. chrome p.. sn. n. persons reception, 2 persons. p. vm., stretch sn. p. through knitted. 1 or 2 p. at the beginning. purl r.: elm. chrome p.. sn. n. out. reception, thread before work. elm. persons or purl. We use 2 or 3 stitches.

Knitting density 10 x 10 cm = 16 p. x 32 r. pattern.

Note. Knit, starting from the bottom edge of the neckline (the direction of knitting is indicated by arrows on the pattern drawing). Knit each piece in the sequence indicated by the numbers on the pattern drawing. Part 1: beginning elm. from inside r., parts 2-6 -beginning. elm. from persons r. To complete parts 2. 3 and 5, remove the corresponding part onto the 2nd circular needle, leaving the remaining stitches on the 1st circular needle.

Getting the job done
Back: beginning elm. from part 1. Cast on 7 sts and in the 1st purl. r. elm. chrome p.. 5 p. p.. chrome. n. Cont. perform the pattern next.
way: chrome. p.. 4 times repeat. rapport, 1 double stitch, chrome. p. At a height of 17 (18.5; 20) cm (= 55 (59; 63) r.) from the cast-on p = 219 (235; 251) p. on the knitting needle - part 1, elm. detail 2 next way: chrome. etc. and next 54 (58;62) p. Simultaneously perform dec. to form a shoulder bevel trace. way: in the beginning track. persons r. ub. 1 (2;1) p., as shown, then dec. in every 2nd r. *3 times for I p, and 1 time for 2 p*., repeat. 5 times from * to * (dec in every 2nd p. 2 p. then * 3 times 1 p. and 1 time 2 p. *, repeat 5 times from * to *; dec in every 2- m p. * 2 p. and 2 times 1 p. *, repeat 7 times from * to *, then 2 more times 2 p.). At the same time at the beginning 1st purl. r., or in the 56th (60th; 64th) r. to make an armhole ub. 1 p., then in every 2nd p. 23 (24; 25) times 1 p. Close off the last 2 p. Elm. second shoulder bevel = part 3 symmetrically at 55 (59; 63) p. Dec. for the shoulder bevel at the beginning. purl r.. perform the armhole at the beginning. persons r. Elm. remaining 109 (117:125) stitches on the bottom edge of the back. Further beginning elm. from detail 4. At the same time elm. double p. at the beginning r. and sn. p. at the end of the river, approx. 1 chrome each n. on both sides. =111 (119; 127) p. In the beginning. each person. r. and out. r. ub. 1 p. and elm. 1 yarn over on both sides from the central point. At a height of 12.5 (10; 7.5) cm (= 40 (32; 24) r.) from the beginning. details 4 elm. first 55 (59; 63) p. in the beginning. r. for part 5 trace, in this way: from the right edge dec. 1 p. at the beginning each person. r. At the same time elm. persons taking chrome p. at the end of the river bottom edge of the top vm. from previous p.. until 3 p. remain. Elm. these 3 p. persons. reception of vm. next persons r. Cut the thread and pull through the remaining sts. For part 6 of the lower edge of the back, close the 1st st = central st of the back at the beginning. 1st person r., then elm. for part 6 symmetrically 55 (59; 63) p. trace, like this: in the beginning. persons r. ub. 1 p., as shown, at the end of knit. r. elm. persons reception sn. p.vm. from previous n. The total height at the center of the back is 65 cm.

Openwork sweater knitted from section-dyed yarn

Using sectionally dyed yarn, we made an openwork sweater with knitting needles in interesting patterns

Openwork sweater knitted with zigzag holes in the pattern

Size: European, 38.
Materials: 4 skeins of Fio Cisne Cake yarn (100% acrylic, 100 g/250 m), needles No. 4.
Knitting density: 20 loops * 28 rows = 10 * 10 cm.

How to knit 2 together knit to the right: We insert the right knitting needle first into the second, then into the first loop and knit two loops together with the front one behind the front wall.
How to knit 2 together knit to the left: remove the loop, knit 1, then throw the removed loop over the knitted one.
Double decrease: remove the loop, knit the next two loops together with the knit stitch to the right, throw the removed loop over the knitted one.

Openwork knitted sweater, job description:

Back: cast on 81 stitches.

Knit exactly 16 rows.

Before: cast on 81 stitches.
Knit 1 knit/1 purl with an elastic band – 6 cm.
Next knit: 8 loops in garter stitch, 65 loops in a pattern according to the pattern, 8 loops in garter stitch.
At a height of 12 cm, begin to decrease one loop on each side in every 14th row - 4 times.
Knit exactly 16 rows.
Start adding one loop on each side in every 14th row - 3 times.
At a height of 42 cm, close the armholes on each side in every second row 1 time 5 loops and 2 times 1 loop.
At a height of 10 cm from the armholes, close the central 15 loops for the front neckline.
Knit the sides of the front separately, continue to close from the side of the neck in every second row 1 time 3 loops, 1 time 2 loops and 4 times 1 loop.
At a height of 20 cm from the armholes we bury all the loops.

Sleeve: cast on 81 stitches.
Knit 1 knit/1 purl with an elastic band – 8 cm.
Next knit: 1 loop in garter stitch, 39 loops in the pattern according to the diagram, 1 loop in garter stitch.
Add one loop on each side in every 10th row - 12 times.
Knit new stitches in a garter pattern.
At a height of 48 cm, close on each side in every second row 1 time 5 loops and 11 times 1 loop; in every third row 6 times 1 loop; again in every second row 1 time 2 loops and 1 time 3 loops.
Close all loops.

Assembly: sew all the details.

Blouse made from Kauni yarn


So. Be sure to knit a sample to calculate the required number of loops for casting on. The jacket is knitted practically without seams, from the outer edge to the inner, so in case of an error in the calculations you will have to unravel a lot. It would be ideal if the number of loops was divided by 5. I strongly recommend drawing a mini pattern on a checkered sheet on a scale: 1 square - 5 loops. Here's my pattern:

Line A-B this is the middle of the back, line B-C is half the circumference of the hips, line C-D middle front.
In my case, the length of the back is 120 loops, half of the OB is 110 loops, the middle of the front is 65 loops (the last figure is obtained automatically if you draw the D-E line strictly diagonally!).
On the knitting needles we cast on 120+110+65+5=300 loops. The extra 5 stitches are 2 edge stitches, 1 middle loop on line B-G, 1 middle loop on line C-G, and 1 middle loop on line D-E. We mark them with markers!
We knit in garter stitch, in each front row on lines B-G and C-G knitting 3 loops together, and along the D-E line adding one loop on both sides of the middle loop. This way we form a straight front line.
If you want to fit the blouse, you can subtract a few stitches in the B-G-C triangle, but we must not forget that at the same time the same number of loops must be added on the E-D line!
In this way we knit until the vertex of the triangle at point G is one loop.
Then you can sew piece G-F, leaving on the knitting needles the loops necessary for the sleeve (F-E). They are simply knitted further until the sleeve length is reached. You can narrow the sleeve, or knit it straight, if desired.
Here we already have half of the jacket ready. We knit the second half in a mirror image. We assemble the loops in the middle of the back from a ready-made part.
All that remains is to sew the shoulder part and decide on the collar. Knit a collar or hood, if desired.

Sorry if anything in the description is not clear. I composed everything as I knitted. There are already several jackets linked on our Latvian forum under the code name Lapsas jaka (Fox Jacket), some changes have been made to each. I am also going to repeat this model from Kauni in the fall. I will definitely take photos of the process.

The variety of yarn allows craftswomen to experiment and create unique things. Modern ones have many names that differ in composition, color and properties.

Section-dyed yarn can be classified as fancy due to its interesting and sometimes unexpected color solutions. The good thing about this yarn is that you don’t need to select and combine colors for the product yourself.

Single-color sections can be short or long, allowing for control over the knitting. Yarn (sectional yarn) with short sections produces a bright, slightly variegated fabric. This thread is ideal for knitting children's clothes or accessories - scarves and hats. Large sections fit into the product in wide, well-combined stripes.

Knitting from section-dyed yarn can be done either by crochet or knitting. Depending on the chosen tool and working technique, a fabric knitted with the same thread may look different.

Manufacturers of section-dyed yarn

Knitting with yarn (sectional yarn) always begins with choosing the ideal yarn composition and color combinations. Fortunately, there are many options - almost everything large manufacturers yarns produce a line of “sections”. The most famous of them:

  • Alize Burcum Batik. 100% acrylic (100 g/210 m). The thread is ideal for baby knitting and for those with sensitive skin prone to allergic reactions. The yarn is very soft, pleasant to the touch, does not squeak or curl during operation. Pleases with noble color combinations.
  • Alize Angora Gold Batik. 10% angora, 10% wool, 80% acrylic (100 g/550 m). Thin, delicate fluffy thread of sectional dyeing. It makes light, airy stoles, shawls, and dresses.
  • Vita Cotton Coco print. 100% gas-colored mercerized cotton (50 g/240 m). This cotton thread makes wonderful summer items. Looks best in lace and openwork patterns. The color combinations seem to be specially created for bright things for spring and summer.
  • Magic. 100% wool (100 g/200 m). Winter knitting is incomplete without this thread. The yarn (sectional yarn) of this brand makes very warm and beautiful things. It is suitable for creating bright, stylish cardigans and sweaters, hats and scarves, socks and mittens.
  • "Kamtex". "Chrysanthemum Print". 40% mohair, 60% acrylic (100 g/350 m). Yarn from a domestic manufacturer is ideal for knitting openwork shawls and stoles with smooth transition flowers.

What to knit from section-dyed yarn

Handicraft magazines and thematic websites offer many patterns that can be used to knit from sectional yarn. Models vary in complexity and styles, but even the simple execution of some models due to complex thread dyeing makes things original and stylish.

The “sectional section” produces not only beautiful large items, such as dresses and jumpers, but also small accessories, for example, sets of hats and snoods, knitted knee socks and socks. For small products, yarn with short sections is more suitable, for large ones - with long sections.

Knitting bactus

It is better to start knitting from yarn (sectional yarn) with a simple product, for example, the now very fashionable bactus. On it, the colored sections will reveal themselves in the most advantageous way due to its triangular shape.

Bactus can be knitted with knitting needles or you can get an original product in the style of Bosnian knitting. The scarf begins to be knitted from one edge, gradually widening and then shortening the rows where the bactus narrows.

You can start working with knitting needles from the center, gradually expanding each “wing” of the bactus. The finished product can be decorated with tassels or fringe.